There is an entire science to decoding undercarriage finishes when it comes to original vs restored. One thing I have found particularly helpful is a full set of the Ford Assembly Manuals that Osborn reproduces. If you look through them you will find a lot of details relating to sealants, painting, undercoating, etc. Don't know if this helps you, but do yourself and big favor and research the heck out of your car before you undertake work and take tons of pics. Uploading a few images and getting feedback can really help you along the way.
Posts by round2K_old
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I received Coker's new catalog in the mail and they have a set of Goodrich radial dual redlines in this years product line.
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Any local professional glass shop can cut & polish mirrors any way you want them. The cheapest ones are at the hardware store prepackaged for wall or door mount. I haven't ever heard of one that was unbreakable, but there are window film products you can put over glass. 3M makes a product the industry refers to as scatter shield and it is used to retrofit non-tempered windows against earthquake damage.
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I can't help but notice the seller's statement "normal rust". Certainly a relief to know it wasn't flooded during Katrina. Is that the small damper?
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It hasn't been about the money for a long time; Shelby's mission in life is his charitable foundation.
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Zinc phosphate and phosphate & oil are synonymous. However; there is manganese phosphate which yields jet black fasteners and then there is zinc phosphate which yields gray fasteners. Zinc phosphate is a plating process that provides a very basic layer of protection to fasteners. Ford used it on many fasteners and parts. It is considered to to be a minimal plating process and the fasteners are covered with oil once the process is complete to add additional rust protection and to keep them from oxidizing when they cool from the plating process.
I don't know much about the 67 fasteners and underhood details, but if you are embarking on restoring fasteners you should get a copy of AMK's big book, the Guide to Ford Fasteners. It contains a section on plating and plating restoration at the front and details of all Ford fasteners by part number. It is an invaluable tool to putting things back together with the correct fasteners.
You can do your own zinc phosphating but it requires bead blasting and heating the solution over a gas grille. You can also send parts to platers that will do it for you.
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Randy Meyer at Precision Products is the most knowledgable guy I've run across and should be able to tell you in detail. He rebuilds Mustang boxes for many of the larger Mustang supply houses. You can reach him here:
Precision Products
24165 W IH-10
Suite 217-282
San Antonio, TX 78527
He did mine for $130 including all parts & labor, and did an excellent job. He runs the "Stangers" site too.
http://www.stangerssite.com/steering.html
BTW: for anyone doing proportioning valve work there is a link on his home page to some very detailed rebuilding information for the KH valves, both early and late.
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I'm going to plug in a quote here from an early thread. This post was by Moneymaker and it is in agreement with Charles Turners observation about the manuals and my own experience.
QuoteDisplay MoreBest and most accurate method is the SAE and FoMoCo method.
Warm the engine.
Follow the firing order 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8 and set the valves one at a time while the engine is warm.
Set the intake rocker at .018 just as the exhaust rocker comes in contact with the exhaust valve.
Set the exhaust rocker at .018 just as the intake comes back up to the top.
If you use poly lock style adjusting nuts and this method you can have 3-4 k or trouble free valve lash miles.
Some additional info:
The factory lock nuts have never worked well for me. They simply won't hold an adjustment for any reasonable period of time. I have bought the ARP poly locks and don't recommend them because they are too tall for stock covers. The Comp Cam Poly Locks fit beautifully and will hold a lash adjustment much longer than the stock nuts, and fit under the chrome covers.
I ran a chassis dyno for several years and we always set valve lash on high performance motors at operating temperature as specified by the cam grinder to get maximum horsepower. There is a simple way to understand the degree of accuracy of a hot lash adjustment: set the lash stone cold to .022. Run the motor to operating temperature then shut the motor down, pull the covers and recheck the lash. You will likely find the majority of the valves are not in adjustment and loose.
I will rephrase what Moneymaker has said about valve position: as the intake just closes adjust the exhaust, as the exhaust just opens adjust the intake. That is a tried and true method for adjusting cams with high lift and performance profiles. You can tell if the valve is closing or opening by gently spinning the pushrod, as soon as it binds the valve is open, as soon as the pushrod frees up the valve has closed. You will always be on the base circle (valve completely closed) of the cam lobe if you stick to that method, and that's the perfect place to set the lash. Intake just closes adjust the exhaust. Exhaust just opens adjust the intake.
Forget about clips and adjustments with a running engine with solid lifters. All you'll do is make a mess of your motor and your floor.
The fellows that are proponents of cold lash aren't wrong, but if you're looking to get the most out of your engine it's all about fine tuning. From my experience I can tell you that a cold lash adjustment is a good starting point, but hot lash adjustment is optimal.
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I owned a set back in the late '70's, but never did run them on my hipo. I used them on a hot rod and had a chassis dyno in my shop then so it wasn't that hard to tune them. I would recommend that you find someone who can at least get you in the ballpark on the chokes and jetting. Buying a set is just the beginning; tuning is a lot of work, even for someone who knows them.
Last year I met a fellow with a mild small block Chevy who had bought a system of the shelf and his car ran like a top and idled nicely. The Inglese site is pretty informative and they advertise a set in a mild state of tune for hipos:
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I would like to suggest that the forum stick to cars, and not offer up opinions on dealers.
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Many heads are sold on ebay, but I seem to notice that of the pair there is usually something wrong with one of them, ameteur machining, old valves, etc. The set going for $1K right now appear to be a good pair and should command a decent price. After disassembly and inspection if those heads have been machined and have fresh parts as represented they're probably worth $1K.
It would be fair to say that the set that sold for $2,350 are not your typical hipo heads; Shelby provenance, much expensive flow bench work, reputable well know Shelby restorer. There is no denying the reality that Shelby folks will continue to drive K code parts prices.
The risk variable with ebay is buying machined parts when the work has been done by a shop that's unknown. You have to automatically discount the perceived value of the work because it's uncertain. It is annoying when an ebay auction for something you need is driven by a determined power bidder who pushes through the reasonable market value of a part. However; I now there are some of us here who have been that bidder because we spent so long looking for the item to complete our restoration that we didn't want to fool around any more.
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The secondary diaphragm check ball is generally not found in carb kits. Plain vanilla carb kits are about $20 at NAPA anywhere in the country.
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In '65 & '66 cars first sold in California (regardless of who made them) were required to have a "closed" PCV system that would include the oil breather cap with the hose to the air cleaner, and manifold vacum at the carb base plate connected to a PCV valve. Both hoses made up the closed system. The suction side with the PCV valve removes blow-by gases with engine vacum, the valve cover to air cleaner hose removes them with air flow. California led the nation by 2 years when it came to emissions controls. The Federal governement did not follow suit with smog controls on cars sold in other states until '68.
The early hipos did not require AIR (Air Injector Reaction) or Thermactor pump systems because of the California Air Resources Board exemption for cars with special ignitions or induction systems for those years. Certain cars fell into this category including dual point ignitions, ram air, multiple carbs or fuel injection. In the case of the hipos the dual points were the exemption from smog pumps. As the air quality standards were tightened the number of loop holes closed and the number of bolt-on systems increased, which is evident when you open up the hood on anything after '68.
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Suggest you get in touch with Chuck Barbero at Distributor Dynamics: (530) 675-2522 .
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If it's a 4100 there is a small check ball that is required in the passage between the secondary diaphragm and the body of the carb. If it's not there you'll have a problem. Get a copy of the exploded parts diagram and you'll see it. They tend to be lost out of ignorance (voice of experience) during disassembly. You can buy them from Pony Carbs parts department. See part number 9576 here at the top of the diaphragm (it is mislabeled on page 2 as an accelerator pump check ball):
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NPD has them.
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I dug out all of my original hangers and there is no offset. It was a problem with a repro system. Thanks.
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I thought you were struggling with aftermarket headers. Didn't dawn on me you were fighting a problem with cast iron manifolds. It sounds like you have some funky castings there. If you have had the motor mounts apart you might want to double check that everything is seated properly. I can't imagine a repro casting being that bad, but anything is possible.
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Anyone with an early car with transverse duals please help with the following:
1. Are the tailpipe tips on your car offset from the bumper guards? In other words, they should be suspended from the original hangers in a way that puts them offset to the left side of the bumper guards so they are not centered if viewed from beneath the car.
2. What is the distance from the top of the tailpipe to the bottom of the valence?
I am installing a mix of NOS and repro parts to make a complete transverse dual system and can't find any specs on this in any of my manuals. I have the dimensions shown in some of the parts diagrams and the HiPo book, but this info is lacking. Thanks.