I am a believer that things happen (or don't) for reasons we don't always recognize. If it wasn't meant to be there may well be a better car in your future. That doesn't help with the sting of losing out on your recent transaction, but it is a positive way of looking for the next one.
Posts by round2K_old
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I should have had the read "rationalizing from the sellers vantage point". My goof.
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The 1965 Shelbys are selling for over $250,000 plus.
Rationalizing the 125k asking price in light of the cost of early Shelbys from a different vantage point:
If any particular K code model is going to track the cost of a 65 or 66 Shelby GT350 it should logically be the fastback. GT350 prices beyond your reach? Get the next best thing; buy a K FB for half the cost. All of the fun and no having to answer the proverbial "is it real?"
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If you buy it directly from Bob he will inscribe it for you if you ask him. Great guy.
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I haven't checked the NADA lately, but that seems to be optimistic pricing!
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Curiosity question: the dealer says that they are not publishing the VIN because they have had them end up in fraudulent auctions on ebay. What good does it do to auction off a car with a VIN that doesn't belong to the car or chassis?
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A button top 3911 if someone is looking for the single spring till they find the double:
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Ditto the recommendation for Damper Doctor. John's shop is right down the street from my house. He does great work for restorers all over the world.
Damper Doctor
1055 Parkview Avenue, Redding, CA 96001
(530) 246-2984
I would be a little suspect of a damper as the cause of slightly rough idle. A damper that is in need of repair shows some tell-tale signs like cracked or missing sections of rubber, and can be misaligned at the timing mark, though not always. The vibration will generally be present (or even worse) as you increase speed.
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I don't doubt the fellow's description, but I wonder about the VIN stamping. Has anyone ever seen them off the boss like that?
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It seems that mixed results are the norm when it comes to finding NOS parts. Based on my experiences over the last couple of years with a half a dozen companies I would like to give a thumbs up to Fred Ballard for supplying me with a number of NOS parts and dealing ethically.
On a second note: the cam timing on Marv's HiPo cam was right on the money and sounds fantastic.
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Some hipos had PCV.
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I believe it it appears in the 65 assembly manuals.
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He does a terrific job. One thing you might want to keep an eye on though; mine came back with a paint coating on the shifter head that flaked off during handling for reassembly. I washed it off with a little lacuer thinner and took it back down to the original finish.
Don't forget your lower dustboot and the wave washers at the shifter rods.
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That is a terrific pedal set up. I have one and it is smooth and friction free.
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If it's the same one I think it is I emailed the guy about it. He said it didn't have the logo imprint on it (not Ford, but the manufacturer - kind of a triangle shaped deal). Didn't seem like a very good photo as I recall.
Your machine shop can balance your motor to work without one then you can run a true roller timing set, as someone mentioned earleir.
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Quote from noelfisher
Really? (And no intake?)
Not sure what you mean by "no intake". I carry a spare water pump beause I'm in the middle of ag land and cattle ranches and 70 miles from just about anything. It averages 105-100 degress during the summer. Never had an intake lose a seal or bearing in the middle of nowhere.
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One thing to keep in mind: unbolt the clutch stop from the pedal assembly to allow you to remove the large return spring on the clutch. If you try to do it any other way you will hate life.
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I also carry a spare belt and water pump.
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Were the ends on the primary wiring at the distributor 90 degree push-ons rather than nuts? I recall seeing the push-on ends on the positive side of the coil and on the original pig tails, but they get cut off with the Petronix installations.