Posts by round2K_old

Before you dive in and toss the battery tray you might want to check it for a date code. If it is correct and can be beadblasted that might be a better option.

If you have to modify do it with Webers!

Undo the screw about half way then give the top of it a gentle tap. If you use a nut driver you can unscrew and tap it with the same tool.

The use of phrase "unmolested" needs to be banned from old car listings.

I did a bit of research before firing off my new motor, as the subject of cams going flat due to a lack of zinc is very real if you ask machinists and cam grinders. There are a handful of additives that contain zinc to aid in break in, and to be used on an ongoing basis. Crane sells a zinc break in addiditive, and Chevrolet sells a product called EOS for the same purpose. Lucas has an additive that is also recommended due to the zinc content.

Bo,

Marvin McAfee of MCE Engines in Southern California has written a number of articles on small block blueprinting. He uses the galley orifice plugs in his motors. You might get in touch with him and see if he sells the parts.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/m…lding_mistakes/

The engine in my car was machined and assembled in the third week of December 64 and the car has a build date of 12/30. The sheet metal in the car has date stamps from 12/4 through 12/14. It is amazing how they were putting them together so quickly. There are one or two items that predate 12/4, but not many. As I understand it, raw materials were going in one end of the Cleveland plant and finished engines out the other. I'd love to see some assembly line pics.

Did the 65 master cylinder push rod have a retainer or clip on the end to keep the rod in place? If so, does anyone have an image they could share? Thanks.

The threads on the original are a bit galled up so I was looking for a fresh one. The bolt and washer on the right are one of AMK's junior kits, F1191 and it's grade 8, but a smaller head. I have not ordered by part number yet, but would like to find the larger head for a correct replacement. Here is the link to AMK's 5/8 bolts, are you talking about the one on the bottom of the page? (I couldn't find a cross reference with the part number you supplied.)

http://amkproducts.com/bulk2.asp?code…%2F16+%2D+5%2F8

Does anyone know the part number and perhap s have a source for the crankshaft damper bolt for 65? The AMK assembly has the smaller washer and I figured I would toss that and reuse my original washer with the new bolt, but the bolt head is different. Bob Mannel's book mentions the bolt with the taller head as a prodution change in 62/63, but I can't seem to find a part number in the MPC.

[Blocked Image: http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/9254/dsc4393bz7.jpg][/URL]

PCV was required by the California Air Resources Board in 65, but not by the EPA in other states. California was the first state to adopt emissions controls and they were not applied to 49 state cars until 66. The basic rule of thumb is that emissions controls that appeared on cars first sold in CA were followed in the 49 states two years later. This accounts for 65's with PCV in CA and road draft tubes on 49 state cars. Same thing with Thermactor systems; they show up on CA cars in '66 and 49 state cars later.

Bob Mannel,

Welcome to the HiPo exchange. Thanks for all your help and willingness to share info during the restoration of my motor. Your book is the encyclopedia of small blocks and an invaluable reference.

Alloy Metal Products produces the harnesses for NPD and many of the other vendors. Their work is great and the fit seems fine.

All things K are fair game here. I have a transverse dual sysetem on my car and will try and get you a wav file this weekend.

The motor and engine compartment are finally back together; I'm going for a road test on Sunday! [Blocked Image: http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/1308/dsc4350bs1.jpg]

Here's the info from the site. Hope this helps, and good luck getting the nut loose.

Quote

Unit can be adjusted by loosening adjuster lock nut and screwing adjuster sleeve in or out to desired effect. Be sure to tighten down adjuster lock nut each time. Threading the sleeve outwards will increase the pressure going to the calipers on the front wheels, threading in will decrease it.

Stanger site has the best info. I had Mark Farrier sleeve mine and he did a great job. His instructions have info that says that increasing spring tension by turning in the adjuster is supposed to provide more hydraulic pressure to the fronts.

I have installed a yellow top repro on my car that I bought from Virgina Mustang. No problems yet. I'll carry my original as a spare after reading the posts.

Very cool bit of info. Learn something new every day, and thanks for the pic. The Cobra thread is worth reading to validate the story.

I will offer one more thought about waiting and avoiding disappointment. It took me two years to find my car and I did a lot of looking. When I bought it I did not have the time to travel and see it in person, so I placed faith in the seller and asked for a lot of photos and swapped a lot of email. In the end I bought a car that many would be happy with, but it was far from perfect and initially I started to feel a bit stupid about my purchase. I thought I saw better cars change hands for equal or less money and perhaps I had been naive to pay so much. After looking at some of the cars other people have bought I now know that there aren't many "perfect" examples. However; there are so few of these cars remaining and they are so unique it is a pleasure to have one to work with as a project. When the restoration bug bites you nothing is ever quite as right as you know it can be, so you constantly seek to improve. I have stepped back and resigned myself to incremental restoration, in part because of the cost, but also because it's a journey I am enjoying. Hang in there and the right car will come along, and don't be disappointed when it's not perfect.