Posts by round2K_old
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Bob,
It is great that you are willing to continue to research and improve on your book. That's made it the finest reference available on the subject. Your approach to updates via the web is terrific. Thanks.
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I'd be interested.
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I have a 12/30/64 SJ fastback and my car is NOT equipped with the GT exhaust rail reinforcements.
The only evidence I had of the original exhaust system was the hangers I found during resotration. The car was equipped with what appear to be original transverse system hangers so I opted to put that system back on. In theory my car should have had an Arvinode system (12/30/64) but after a long conversation with Scott McNair, a former Ford employee who worked in the San Jose plant at the time, many of the hipos built there did not receive Arvinodes due to production demands and availability during late '64 and very early '65.
I bought the Motive Industries kit from NPD and can tell you it has problems with fit. The intermediate pipes have too much offset and bind on the emergency brake cables. I ended up having to customize it to make it work. I installed it two ways; the entire Motive Industries system with their H pipe, and then with a NOS muffler and NOS H pipe using only their intermediate mufflers. In both cases the brake cables were binding on the intermediate muffler pipes. For over a month I tried to get Motive Industries to address the problem. After sending them images and waiting I was finally told by Steve Gould at Motive that they would not try to solve the problem unless they had a car in their shop as a pattern. Ultimately NPD was really good about it and offered to take back the system or provide other parts to help solve the problem, but the experience with Motive was a real bummer as they were unresponsive and uncommunicative. If you decide to put the transverse on because you can't find an Arvinode ($$$$) be prepared to have a muffler shop modify it by cutting and turing the intermediate pipes a few degrees in either direction so the brake cables won't bind.
If the rail reinforcements are not inside the frame rail your car was modified at some point and the bolts holes and plate were added to provide a means of fastening.
The images below show the binding of the cables against the Motive intermediate pipes. The muffler clamps are incorrect, as I did not want to use the shoulder reproductions until the problem was solved. The notches seen in the intermediate pipes were cut by me in an effort to avoid having to remove the NOS H pipe tabs. If they could have started the offset right behind the flare at the H pipe the problem would not have occured.
[Blocked Image: http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/3315/dsc4351py2.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/9724/dsc4352cg8.jpg]
The hangers in the pic below are my original on the top, and what is supposed to be a repro on the bottom. The repro hangers would not work with the repro transverse dual system as they were too short and pulled the rear muffler up to the point that it was too close to the fuel tank.
[Blocked Image: http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/4634/dsc3781iq8.jpg]
Tony's book does not address these unique exhaust characteristics as it states that all hipos were equipped with the frame rail reinforcements, and that is absolutely incorrect. Based on the book I was very confused about the lack of frame rail reinforcements in my car until I found other K's built prior to March of 65 without frame rail reinforcements. The frame rail reinforcements were not installed until the GT dual exhaust system was introduced in early '65.
Best of luck getting your system put together. I can tell you that the transverse dual system has a robust sound and really turns heads; it was worth the effort.
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I would take that a step further and recommend Halon over dry chemical. Dry chemical clean up is a real pain.
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I was in the Damper Doctor the other day and I think they had one in stock, however it may have been a special Shelby piece as it had additional timing marks at 90 degree intervals. If you call ask for Mike or John.
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There is a good bit of info available on Randy Meyers' site. There is a fellow named Mark Frappier who does the stainless sleeving. If you send him your valve he will sleeve it for you. He did a great job on mine.
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Quote from Fordguy46
Is this normal or added by someone in the past?
It sounds like someone has modified it to take the later style dual exhaust. You should post a picture to help out.
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What is the build date on your car? Early cars will not have them.
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You'll have to trust me on this, because it is an old racing trick:
Put a long breaker bar on the 15/16 bolt and then rotate it to where it is firmly against the frame rail on the driver's side. At that point you can install a remote starter on the solenoid and tap it gently. The torque of the starter will rotate the motor and break the bolt loose, then you can undo it from there. Be sure to pull the ignition bypass wire off the solenoid when you do this (the one next to the start wire).
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I have a 12/30/64 SJ car with the VIN stamped original trans; HEH-T.
I enjoy the book, and no disrepect to Marv, but when patterns are found in cars that support a case at odds with official Ford publications it is reasonable to print a correction or addendum. Particularly when it can be based on the feedback received from registry members. The notion of finding truly authentic "unmolested" hipos given the few numbers that survive seems like looking for a needle in a haystack; how many really exist that way after 40+ years? If you believe in the notion of the registry trust the members to give decent information if you are willing to survey them. Books will be the better for it. Kudos to Bob Mannel for continually asking questions and updating his book via his web site.
I also agree with Charles that the exhaust issue in Tony's book needs to be addressed with a correction and have spoken out about it before; it's an error in the book. Waiting 4 years for the next edition seems unreasonable to owners of these great cars.
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Damper Doctor is about a mile from my home. Ask for John or Mike. They did my balancer when I restored my motor and trans this year and do a fine job. I have been in their shop many times and they have an inventory of cores also.
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Bob Mannel had mentioned it a while back. It is my understanding you have to request information from the Ford archive library, but I don't know what the criteria is for public access. There is info on Ford's site.
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I have yet to find anyone reproducing the Arvinode system. There is some interest, but the Mustang system was only used for 5 months before it was replaced by the later GT duals, so there isn't much market for it. Bob Mannel says that the engineering drawings are still in Ford's archives so there's a chance it could be faithfully reproduced. The system was used on some of the other Ford cars as well.
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Hank,
Great job on the server migration; the site is much, much faster than it ever has been.
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Seems like a marked improvement.
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5R09K169680: San Jose, motor build date 12/17/64, car build date 12/30/64, air cleaner base stamped 5A, flat top.
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I have Hagerty and often wonder how such good coverage can be so affordable. I had one minor claim and they were great to work with.
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Gary,
I have seen two sets of those heads and if I recall correctly Crane stamped their logo on one end. The round exhaust ports were common to both sets. I don't recall about the valve sizes, but they were ported and were supposed to have matched combustion chamber volumes. Hope this helps.
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John,
I have one of the sealed Autolite repros from Restoration Battery and it has been great. Granted it's not an original, but there's no battery box acid to deal with.