So it was a black hipo GT. It really does make you wonder how anyone could strip such a great car down to the bone and keep the shell intact. Where did all the parts go and how long has it been sitting like that?
The seller's web site has a good set of photos and it looks like they are trying to fully disclose the defects. The firewall looks like there were AC hoses at one point.
How about some pictures??? This is a tough one to understand without some images. Could you post pics of the front and back of each?
Yup; small damper & small alt pulley. No original manifolds or fuel pump either. Doesn't seem like there are any original hipo motor parts visible under the hood.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
EOS is not recommended by GM as an oil change supplement because of concerns over emissions controls, specifically early catalytic converters. However; there are many engine builders and restoration organizations that recommend it. The issue of lower zinc levels has been a concern in Porsche and air cooled engine circles for a while.
Jeff Speegle might want to add the sound deadener images to his archive.
You are probably being hindered by the spring insulator. The tower bolts can be centered and aligned with a punch before you install the tower using the tower as a guide. You can put a floor jack under the control arm and jack the car up a bit and it will give you some play in the shock. You can also unbolt the shock at the upper A arm. Either way will give you more room to work under the shock.
A little grease on the seal, a gentle tap on the hub after you are aligned with the keyway, then pull it down with the crank bolt. Be sure and torque to specification.
Kevin,
I have been using EOS as a supplement and was looking for specific info on use as an oil change additive. Does GM have a recommended quantity when adding to oil changes?
Lucas also makes an additive with zinc. It is readily available at Autozone and I think NAPA also carries it.
By the time I purchase new pistons and seals, I'll have more in my old calipers than what they sell the rebuilt ones for.
This is the reaction that everyone seems to have when they look at the cost of doing the rebuilding or buying rebuilt. I can't address the specific product you are asking about, but know that most rebuilders don't replace all the pistons. During the rebuilding process someone has to make a judgement call on the castings and the piston condition and this is where the issue of quality can be compromised if they are reusing pistons. The original Ford pistons will last a long time if they are removed from the calipers without damage and aren't corroded. The rebuilder might not have to replace any, or it could be as bad as all four, but with the cost of the pistons I don't see how any of the rebuilders can afford to replace all four. Unless you have complete confidence in the work of the builder how do you trust your brakes without disassembly and inspection to determine if the work was properly done or not?
If you opt to rebuild your own calipers you will at least know what you have. You can bead blast your castings and completely remove any rust in pitted areas and then clean the threads at the line connections. The seal surface of the pistons are easily damaged if mishandled. If you have to replace any of the pistons you should carefully inspect the new ones for scratches or other minor damage that would result in leaks later on. If in doubt return them. I had to send pistons back to NPD three times because of inadequate bulk packaging by the manufacturer. Rust in the threaded areas of the line fittings is common and needs to be inspected and cleaned up with the appropriate taps to ensure a good fit. Stainless caliper lines are a worthwhile investment (unless you are in a concours class that won't allow them). If you look at all these variables and then add the cost of pistons it is difficult to see how a rebuilder can provide a qualtiy product at such low price points. There may be a particular company that is doing a good job and if they could be identified it might be worthwhile. If you do your own you will know exactly what you've got and control the quality. In addition, the calipers were natural finish and most of the rebuilt units are painted black.
If the front calipers need overhaul the proportioing valve probably needs attention too. It would be a shame to push new brake fluid through a corroded proportioning valve to get it to fresh calipers. The body of the valve lends itself to rust over the long term and pitting in the bottom of the cylinder bore is a typical result. There is no mystery to the valve mechanism and it is quite simple. There are companies that will overhaul the entire valve or you can have someone do the sleeving and assemble it yourself. Once the sleeving (stainless) is done it is all about clean, careful reassembly. There is also no better time to replace the caliper hoses and copper sealing washers.
Doesn't seem like they would be much good without the iron brackets to match. For that much money you would think they'd be totally restored with all new fasteners.
The upper control arms on the Shelby's were lowered one inch. If it is a Shebly there should be a second set of upper A arm holes visible from the engine bay.
Pin holes from corrosion will cause the leak as well as leaking gaskets. The aluminum will decay on the inside of the cover to the point where it weakens and leaks under pressure. The cooling system can be pressurized with a pump designed for that purpose that is in most good repair shops. If it's that bad you probably won't be able to repair it wihtout a lot of clean up and welding. If you're seeing the tell-tale puddle on top of the cover and you've eliminated the hoses and thermostat housing as the cause you'll be pulling the front cover next. When you go to buy the gaskets for the front cover I would recommend Victor gaskets available from NAPA instead of Fel Pro. Fel Pro sells a gasket that is produced for both early and late cars and the material hangs out past the cover in several places. The Victor front cover set had a much better fit for the early cover.
Ditto the recommendation for ordering through NAPA. If you buy from Rock Auto and have to return anything they will ask you to ship things to different places. I had to return three parts to them and they had me send them to different destinations for return credit and the shipping cost tripled.
This was a really worrisome topic to research when I was building my motor this winter. You figure you can do it the old school way with cam lube and frequent oil changes, then the rug gets pulled out from underneath you.
EOS is readily available from Chevrolet over the counter and can be used to supplement regular motor oils. I have been running Rotella, but when I went to buy my last batch the dealer told me Shell was going to be changing the formulation and that there would less zinc in future production. I am going to continue to run Rotella and will likely add EOS in the 4oz. size.
The cage and levers inside the cage are zinc, the shifter rods are zinc phosphate & oil.
Bob,
Hope this will get you started:
5R09K169680, 12/30/64 San Jose
Engine assembly date 12/17/64
HEH-T, 012740
Data plate was bruised by PO during paint before I bought the car, but is intact. Close scrutiny of the engine will show double roller chain that replaced original hipo style when engine was balanced. I did the gearbox at the same time as the motor and took the VIN comparison pic. (You may recall the hipo crankshaft identification pics I sent to you during overhaul.) All 3 chassis VINs are present.
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Here is the link to Randy Meyer's web site:
Mark Frappier is the machinist that does the stainless steel sleeving of the valves. He will also install the o-rings for you. The parts that are re-used include the aluminum piston components, the dampening spring, the bumper stop, the cast iron body and the threaded end cap. The only parts that are replaced are the o-rings.
The rubber band that goes around the body of the valve is there to keep dirt out of the vent hole, and will be the most obvious leak. Without launching the old brake fluid debate of DOT 5 silicone vs DOT 3 regular; Frappier recommends that the brake system be refilled with DOT 3 brake fluid instead of silicone because of viscosity, and because the components were designed for it. I used DOT 3 and haven't had a problem.
