Ditto Distributor Dynamics. Chuck did a great job on mine and the curve was right on the money.
Posts by round2K_old
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The repros are generally sold with the dark color that is incorrect for early cars. If your car was built in early 65 to be correct you will need to have argent instead of charcoal. Unless you are showing your car in concours trailered MCA shows I would agree with the recommendation to use reproduction wheels. Buy them from one of the better supply houses so you don't have any hassles if you have to return them.
I recently had mine balanced on a Hunter Road Force machine using the concentric wheel lug adapters. It is amazing how accurate the machine is and what you can learn about the wheel and the tire as separate components. The machine simulates over-the-road conditions by applying a roller to the tire during the spin balancing process. The quality of the balancing is superior to any other method I've ever used, including spin balancing on the car back in the old days.
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There are date codes imprinted on the bottom.
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The best place to look is in Bob's book, but I don't believe those caps were ever used during hipo production. They came later and frequently change hands on ebay.
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…e&TOPIC_ID=5942
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You might want to post this over on the Vintage Mustang Forum to get feedback.
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You may find that the easiest solution is to get a copy of the Ford Electrical Assembly Manual by Osborn. There are illustrations that show where the loom connection points are, and they call out the color codes. It will save you a lot of brain damage.
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I recently read that the VIN numbers were sequential based on the plant production of all models, not just Mustangs. The sequence could have contained other car models being produced on the various lines. I am not sure of the accuracy of this would welcome someone knowledgable commeting.
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Any parts store will generally have one.
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You can remove the oil pressure switch or sender and insert a mechanical oil pressure gauge with the appropriate combination of fittings.
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If you soften up the rubber in warm water and use silicone spray you can reduce the odds of having it split on you.
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Unfortunately, you don't. You have to stretch the boot over the T one leg at a time.
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The early style angle levers don't have the reverse interlock bushings and the later curved style do.
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You might want to start with the NADA price guides and take it from there. You can input the hipo option along with the car's other features it will give you a range based on condition.
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Let's see how it ends up against the estimate of $100-125K.
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I had an early Cobra set-up back in the late '70's with 48 IDAs. You have to get the venturi size and the jetting in the ballpark before you ever put them on. You also have dial in the fuel supply to the appropriate pressure. Once you have those two items solved you need to spend time on a chassis dyno with someone who knows the carbs to get them properly jetted. I owned an auto shop at the time and had a Clayton chassis dyno so I was able to do my own, but it took many hours to get them right. Also, recognize that they are fundamentally racing carburetors and are not street, or low rpm, friendly. One last thing; before you ever start the carburetor process make sure your ignition system is dialed in and you have a decent curve in the distributor.
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A driver with the wrong engine and wrong color is a lot of work to bring up to show standards. Wrong color is an automatic 20 point deduction in competition. If a buyer wanted this car to be correct there is $20K, or more, worth of engine and paint work.
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FOR SALE: Aluminum hipo water pump for alternator cars. Casting# C5AE-8505-D. This is a spare hipo pump that I don't need and I just had it rebuilt by Automotive Friction in Oregon. They have rebuilt pumps for me in the past and do a great job. Casting is in excellent condition and it has the correct, balanced, 6 vane 3 hole impeller. I spent a lot to get the pump originally and have quite a bit into it with the rebuilding. $395 + shipping and I will supply a copy of the invoice from Automotive Friction. Date code on the pump is 08/67.
Images available if needed.
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There are two options: The hose is fundamentally bulk neoprene hose, either 5/8" or 3/4" ID (measure the connection points to be sure). If you want the correct hose you can order the one with Ford part numbers and the logo from sources mentioned here already. If not, you can buy bulk neoprene crankcase vent hose from any local parts house and it will do the job. Heater hose will deteriorate on the inside as it ages when exposed to crankcase gases.
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NPD sells the correct hose.
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I have the differential out of my 12/30/64 San Jose car for undercarriage detailing and was able to take these shots. The car is a non-GT hipo. The car does not have the bolt holes for the GT configuration as it was built prior to 03/65 when the GT exhaust was introduced. The hangers that are shown were on the car when I bought it and appear consistent with Jeff's images. I will be refreshing the hanger rubber during this project. (I think the white stripe on the one hanger is a white wall tire section.) Scott McNair, a former Ford factory manger in San Jose, has told me that San Jose hipos did not all receive the Arvinode system due to distribution shortages at the time. Because of this information and the fact that the hangers were on the car, I chose to put the tranvese system back on the car. The system you see here is a Motive Industries reproduction supplied by NPD. I have run the car with the Motive rear muffler and a NOS Ford rear muffler like the one in Jeff's pictures above. The Ford muffler has a deeper sound and does fit the system, but the one I had was shelf worn and I wanted to prepare for concours driven events so I used the Motive piece. The system required a bit of work in the muffler shop to get it to fit properly, including cutting and rotating the intermediate pipes. When I spoke to Motive about the need to fit the system they told me they had never test fit the system on a car because they had not had access to an original hipo for mock-up. Their rear muffler was right on, but the intermediate mufflers and pipes were several degress off in roation and were up against the emergency brake cables. Cutting and rotating the intermediate pipes by a few degrees solved the clearance issue at the cables. It is a good sounding system.
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