Bill Heeley: (301) 774-6710
Posts by round2K_old
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The passenger side VIN is visible in one of the aution pics. 6R09K14XXXX. Maybe a photoshop wizard can see the rest.
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There are two basic classes of undercarriage finish, painted or undercoated. Painted undercarriages were delivered from the factory that way and could have been red oxide, black, or a combination of leftover paints mixed together. Undercoated cars were done at the dealer and the undercoating was applied in a variety of ways depending upon the dealer that tdid the work.
If you are about to undertake detailing it would be helpful to you to join MCA if you are not already a member. You can download the concours judging rules and much of the information you will need will be contained there. If you refer to it as you encounter areas you are about to tackle you will get it right.
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Larry,
Can you help us out on any of the other items listed, including exhaust?
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I started this thread and failed to share my info:
5R09K16980, scheduled build date 12/30/64
Early style carpet.
Early style clip on window & door cranks.
Two speed center off/three wire heater.
Uncertain of the original shifter handle whether angle or curved.
Open style hood bumpers.
Carriage bolt spare.
Probably an Arvinode car originally based on existing exhaust hangers, though not certain.
Build date on the motor is 12/17/64.
Screw on wiper bezel nuts.
No "A" on driver side air vent.
Non GT car and uncertain if it had the optional aluminum hood strip originally.
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There doesn't appear to be anything particularly special about the distributor. Perhaps they're fishing for a desparate Shelby owner.
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Try Damper Doctor at (530) 246-2984.
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How about early style carpet?
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If it is available to be deleted you will see a trash can symbol in the iconography.
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According to MCA rules you can have a black or natural finish on the master cylinder.
The front/rear braking you are describing sounds like the proportioning valve needs adjusting. The purpose of the vale is to allow for balancing the front & rear to achieve optimum stopping. It is not uncommon for people to rebuild their valves and then have to make some adjustment to fine tune stopping.
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How about these items:
Shifter - angled or curved?
Arm rests: early or late?
A on the vent knob?
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Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the fan shroud fasteners where they attach to the radiator brackets? I'm trying to order appropriate screws/washers/clips where the shroud meets the clips and can't seem to find part numbers in either the Olson or MPC books.
Finish on the fan shroud brackets: it looks like they may have had a black anodizing or were they dipped gloss black?
Finish on the radiator petcock: were they painted with the radiator or natural?
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In looking at cars built during this period there are a number of early style details that were mixed on cars built in SJ. I am trying to compile data on various details on SJ cars delivered during this period. If you own one of these cars and would be willing to help please send me a PM and I will send you an email with the list of questions. You can provide reply to answers in your email back to me. Even if your car has been restored and is not entirely original there may be some information of value. Thanks.
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Fred, you are very lucky. If you have never seen the video on Car Crazy about Bata Mataja's house you might enjoy it.
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One more picture courtesy of dstnly:
[Blocked Image: http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/5601/kdayoverviewuo1.jpg]
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OSH sells carriage bolts the length you need. I tried to find NOS or used for a while and finally gave up.
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Depending on how you clean the case parts there are several methods being used after preparation:
All natural with light oil to deter rust.
Zinc phosphating the case parts to darken the parts.
Clear coating to deter rust. (Eastwood makes a high-temp satin clear.)
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If Marv is out you can still get the chains and sprockets in the aftermarket from Cloyes. There are part numbers listed here in various posts in the archive.