Posts by round2K_old

It's too easy to ground the horn wire putting the wheel back on and a blown fuze is the inevitable result. Simple process:

Pop out the fuze, install the steering wheel, then reinstall the fuze.

I've been running the ARP Perma-locs under stock covers for years. You can get them overnight from Summit Racing.

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Good info; thanks for contributing.

You have to remember that this site is run by enthusiasts, not employees. Personally, I hope that the site owner(s) will take the initiative to communicate with the forum members and let us know what's happening.

There are many noteworthy benefits even without the registry up and running:

Exchange of information with other K code owners.

A parts forum for buying and selling Mustang and hipo specific parts.

An online encyclopedia of K code information.

I wonder if the auction writes the background info or the seller.

A recent question was posed relating to the installation of wire loom decals - were they installed wrapped around the looms or were they stuck to themselves?

Here are some examples of loom decals to better illustrate the question:

#1 is an older Ford over-the-counter NOS emergency flasher harness.

#2 is a later service NOS reverse light.

#3 is a main harness that that appears to have a clear tape wrapped around it. I don't think Ford would have taken this step, but it's worth showing for this discussion.

#4 is a later service NOS park light.

1.

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2.

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3.

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4.

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You can get Heely to rebuild it for you. He upgrades the cable to a rod in the process and it's a bit more reliable.

http://www.hipomustang.com/default2.asp?page=5

Two tees of varying years make it pretty tough to identify the color. If you're going to go through the trouble of reproduction you might want to dig a little deeper. The same thing happened with the FB screw caps as there were gray and white and for a while we only had one of the two colors being reproduced.

Here is a '65:

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Don't try to judge the box adjustement by the length of the bolt sticking out as it's not a indicator of the preload on the steering gear. The box should be properly lubriacted and that requires pulling one of the cover bolts and injecting the appropriate amount of grease to fill the gear box. The best way to adjust the box is off the car with the benefit of correct tools and the Ford service manuals. You will also notice a seemingly stiff area in the center of the steering gear where the wheel wants to stay and Ford deliberately designed that into the mechanism to help the car stay centered going down the road.

Randy at Stanger does a great job and can help out if the box needs to be overhauled.

Thanks for sharing all the info. The engine detailing looks great!

How about sticking to the topic. It's about cars, not tires.

I paid $500 for the whole set up back in '79 and should have kept them. Could of, should of, would of:)

Yes.

In doing the research for the Arvinode system I spent a lot of time (as did Charles Turner and others) crawling around under cars to gather the details regarding the exhaust hanger locations. It is important to note that these details are not in Tony Gregory's book, The High Performance Mustang, and that the information the book does contain regarding the Arvinode is incorrect. Hopefully that will be remedied in future additions. There are many enthusiasts with early cars that have tried to understand how the Arvinode and transverse dual systems were installed and these images and info were put together to enable easy identification of the mounts.

EARLY MUSTANG EXHAUST MOUNT DETAILS

The first three images below show the rear exhaust hanger locations that were used for all three 64 ½ - 66 K code exhaust systems: transverse duals with turndowns, Arvinode with turndowns or GT trumpets, and straight through duals with turndowns or GT trumpets.

The last two show the front hanger reinforcing plate that was used on all dual exhaust cars, GT and non-GT: the images are a 65 K code with the dual exhaust floor reinforcing plate compared to a 65 C code without dual exhaust reinforcement.

NON-GT CARS PRIOR TO 3/22/65:

Up to 10/15/64 the cars were equipped with transverse duals. From 10/15/64 to approximately 3/22/65 the same mounting points were used with different hangers for the Arvinode systems. Some very early GT cars were equipped with Arvinode systems with trumpets. Hangers were fastened to the frame rail with 5/16 NC bolts.

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NON-GT AND GT CARS FROM 3/22/65:

From 3/22/65 the cars were equipped with straight through duals and the exhaust hanger locations were moved toward the rear. Non-GT cars would have turndowns and GT cars would have trumpets. Hangers were fastened to the frame rail with 5/16 NC bolts and nuts.

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NON-GT and GT DUAL EXHAUST REINFORCING PLATE UNDER REAR SEAT:

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C CODE WITHOUT REFINFORCEMENT:

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Early NON-GT cars (prior to 3/22/65) equipped with Arvinode and Transverse dual exhaust hangers are shown below. The early dual exhaust K code cars DO NOT have holes all the way through the frame rails. We have reported on this a number of times and hope that section of Tony Gregory's book will be corrected in future editions. The production dates listed below are approximate based on older versions of the MPC.

The transverse dual car used horseshoe clamps and the Arvinode uses a band clamp. Note the use of whitewall tires on the original transverse dual hanger.

TRANSVERSE DUAL CAR (up to 10/15/64) SHOWING THE CORRECT REAR HANGER

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ARVINODE CAR (10/15/64 - 3/22/65) SHOWING THE CORRECT REAR HANGER

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If you pulled out a T-10 and put in an HEH-T it is unlikely it will be stamped with a VIN of any kind unless you are certain you acquired the transmission that was once in a K code. The trans and engine were stamped at the same time and would have been mated to a K car as a VIN matching assembly.

Step into the Time Machine:

Roll back the clock to the years of 1964-67.

You get to buy any NEW car you want, but only one.

Money is no object.

What would you bring back?

People buy cars for different reasons, but it's probably fair to say that the K code now falls into the collector car categroy. If you own a collector car you will encounter higher prices for those parts that are unique to the car. It's those particular parts and their unique nature that make the car valuable and attractive to other collectors. The definition of expensive is all relative. There will be many on this site that can remember when we could buy cars for hundreds of dollar and then walk into Ford to buy the parts over the counter:)

Thanks Brant - I placed an order this week.