Posts by round2K_old

I will agree with Murf; boring doesn't change compression in the case of .030 stock hipo motor.

If the Feb 65 radiator is for a standard trans you might want to post the source so someone looking for one can pick it up. Top tanks are getting harder to find.

I am going to post this question reluctantly as I am fundamentally against fuel additives. Through the years I've tolerated the decline in the quality of gas by gently retarding the timing or tweaking my distributor curves. I no longer want to do that as engines tend to run hotter and performance suffers. When I rebuilt my motor I put it back together with NOS parts and left it stock. The only changes I made for sake of performance and durabilty were porting and polishing the exhaust openings and balancing. The distributor curve was dialed in by Chuck Barbero and I verified that he had it right on the money, and Pony did the carb. In both cases they were left stock, and the timing was set to 12 degrees BTDC as specified, with total advance of 34 degrees when it's all in.

As weather conditions have changed and warmed up I'm getting a little detonation on the highway when I jump on it. Around town and gentle acceleration are fine. I am acquiescing to the reality that it's going to take some octane booster to allow me to run stock compression and stock tuning, and drive the car the way I like to without fear of detonation. I am reluctant to use additives because of experiences I had when I was younger and working in a speed shop. When unleaded fuels were introduced many hot rodders started using boosters and our carburetor overhaul business increased dramatically due to gasket failures from the chemicals, particularly the Holleys.

Has anyone done any research on octane boosters or used any for an extended period of time? If so, what brand are you using?

Have to give him credit for persistence.

You have a couple of considerations. First, if you want to show the car in MCA events you automatically lose 25 points for a color change from the original data plate. Second, if you ever have to sell it, would it be of more value to a potential collector, or someone who wants your choice of colors? A lot of the value in a K code is in authenticity.

Joe is working on the reproduction of the hangers. The hangers in the photos are all originals and the front hanger is one I found as NOS, but the supplier doesn't have any more. I provided all of my originals to Joe and his vendors for comparison and measuring.

Bob,

If you are having the car restored and it is being painted or stripped by media blasting you should coordinate the disassembly and authentication with your restorer. There will be numerous markings on the car that were used during assembly such as paint daubs and chalk marks and they are an important part of the history of the car. Congratuations on your K.

The cable brackets don't extend straight out with the hipos, they end up offset by a couple of degrees to the front or rear because of the mounts.

My rear hangners are originals and are identical to the ones that Chalres has already posted. My front hangers are identical to those posted by Karl, but at this time I am short the one on the right side. The resonator band clamps are the same as those already posted. You end up with 2 front hangers, 2 rears, two resonator band clamps and two early style short-shoulder clamps to attach the outlet pipe to the front hangers. There are also 4 short should clamps on the front end at the H pipe and the muffler inlet. See earlier posts with Bob Mannel's illustration.

The system will work fine on later cars with the frame rail reinforcements, but they still need to get the early style of front hangers as mentioned above. On later cars the rear will require the later GT dual hanger clamped to the turn down with a regular horseshoe clamp instead of a band clamp in the middle of the resonator.

This is the final installation of prototype 4 and is exactly what Joe is putting into produciton. Bear in mind that his finished product will be much cleaner than this as we have had 4 sets of mufflers on this car using the same outlet pipes. The final production units will also have cleaner mufflers without any clamp scars.

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Two hangers were used at the location with the dual exhaust plates that are under the rear seat and two were used in the rear that are located in the center of the resonator with the appropriate 2 3/4 inch band clamps. I'll post pictures after I get it on a hoist this weekend.

Joe did not provide me with any hangers. He is working with a number of potential suppliers still and it is proving to be the hardest part of the project. The original suppliers that had steel stamping machinery are long gone, so he is trying to find a couple of vendors that will reproduce to the original specs. Not easy, but he has a couple he's talking to that can do it.

If you are showing the car in MCA events in the concours classes it should be black. When the motors moved down the assembly line the filter and manifolds were in place. Everything was painted black at the same time including: bypass hose, carb spacer, edges of the exhaust manifolds where they meet the heads, water pump and timing cover, and the oil filter.

If you're OK with looking at a black filter, then you can also get the Motorcraft racing filter and paint it black. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve and better element than the regular filters.

Let's stick to the cars and save the politics for some other forum.

A thing of beauty.

The testing is over and Joe is setting up for production. If you're interested get in touch with him at Waldron's.

Here is the youtube link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnFXyLgcvLg

Here is a download link that will be good for about a week. After that send me PM:

http://www.sendspace.com/file/8a2zuz

Waldron's Antique Exhaust:

http://www.waldronexhaust.com/

Prototype 4 is it, guys. The sound is much more refined and richer than the first versions. It is also the one made with the most attention to detail in the shop drawings. The fit was excellent and everyone that's heard it loves the sound. I'm at a 2,000+ car show tomorrow in Northern California and I'll let you know how the heads turn!

Marv,

Can you please share with us the method of investigation? Are you polling the registry members to verify both issues?

I can offer the following on both topics:

There is no doubt about the lack of frame rail reinforcements on early cars. I personally checked 18 K codes last year at the Mustangs Plus K day, and another 8 at the MCA National in Concord, CA and can verify that there was not an early car that had the rail reinforcements. I spent months on a goose chase under my 12/30/64 car trying to find frame rail reinforcements based on the book, so I had a vested interest in getting to the bottom of the issue. The MPC clearly shows transverse dual up to 10/15/64 and Arvinode systems from 10/15/64 up until 3/22/65, both with hangers that fasten in the forward bolt holes. It is not until the introduction of the GT duals.

My car has a VIN stamped HEH-T. I know the provenance of the car and have frequent conversations with owner #1. It is the box that came in the car.

I am installing prototype 4 tomorrow morning and will upload pics. It is going to be put in place with original hangers and will be welded. I'll upload pics and some more video footage this weekend.

Ditto: I have a later service pipe with the tabs on the bottom.

It would be interesting to know the scheduled build date. If it is a non GT car and has trumpet tips it could be one of those rare exceptions that had the dealer installed Arvin trumpets.