Posts by round2K_old

If you do a nice job of making the car a non-GT original again you may well find that you are a standout at car shows as there are numerous fake GT cars. A nicely done standard car with minimal options is a rarity.

If you're not racing it there's no reason to be concerned. Front, rear, side - all cars have fuel tank exposure from a directional impact. As for fuel shut of switches - why? Are you worried you wouldn't remember to turn the engine off if it caught fire? (Meant to be funny, not mean.) If you look at these posts you will sense that there is no agreement with the notion of reinforcing a fuel tank in a vintage car for fear of fire.

Wow!

Stainless braid over a vacuum advance line? Yuk.

I would characterize this is a reasonable looking restoration, but it's not thouroghbred material or concours correct for a hipo. One item that may not have been mentioned that's also obvious is the choke stove air supply tube.

Your clutch linkage needs to be corrected as the return spring is not serving any purpose as installed. The correct spring is much longer and extends from the hole in the release fork over to the frame.

When checking the car for dual exhaust reinforcements in the rear frame rails please note that the book is incorrect. With a Jan '65 car you will NOT have the internal frame rail reinforcements for dual exhaust, nor will you have the through bolts holding the rear hangers in place against the inside of the frame rail. The internal frame rail reinforcements did not apppear on dual exhaust cars until the GT exhaust was introduced in March. Your rear exhaust hangers should have threaded holes on the inside of the frame rails that are roughly centered on the gas tank.

As Charles pointed out (good eye!)you had an Arvinode equipped car:

Quote from CharlesTurner

one of your undercarriage shots, you can actually see the outline of the Arvinode rear muffler hanger where it was removed and the regular, more typical straight down dual exhaust hanger was bolted on.

It's only original once! After that, it's just another restored car:(

The pilot hole for most 1/4" NPT taps is 7/16".

They are 1/4" pipe plugs, which are threaded with a NPT tap, not a regular bolt tap. You can get them with an allen head at just about any auto supply house that sells standard hardware.

Here you go Don:

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I live in a part of CA that gets in to the 110-120s all summer long. I have run a four row radiator and never had any issues. I have also run an original two row radiator and not had any issues, though it does run warmer than the four row. The four row has significantly more capacity for exchanging heat than the two row, but it does require longer fan shroud brackets and a shorter fan spacer. Most of the bigger Mustang outfits sell a three or four row. In my experience it is not practical to try and fit an original two row top tank to a three or four row aftermarket radiator.

Mark Vasquez is a member of this forum and he is the fellow who has reproduced the caps. Email him via the forum (mmv.hipo)and he'll get back to you. He's been out of town on family business.

It looks like the trumpets are on opposite sides; the louvers are skewed. Did the '66 cars have the breather hose to the air cleaner by then? Nice color and a good looking car.

I can't tell you for sure, but I imagine it happens because the question that is being asked has been answered a number of times in previous posts. Perhaps it might be better answered as "here is how to search the archives" followed by " and buy the book". I would not interpret it as an attempt to pump up book sales or deprive people from making inquiries.

Those 2 3/4" clamps are impossible to find NOS and I haven't found a decent aftermarket equivalent yet. There is a 1 3/4" version that is up on ebay a lot that is made by the same OEM that made the originals, but they don't make the larger one any more. Joe has a Canadian outfit looking at producing them. It may not be pretty, but in the interim a heavy duty truck hose clamp might be your best bet.

Anyone who opts to bolt rather than weld: position your clamps so they don't slip down the joint and crimp the pipe. You'll keep tightening them and suddenly realize they aren't getting snug because they moved and your pulling down on just pipe, and not muffler or resonator and pipe.

Phil,

Congratulations on the car. My car has a build date of 12-30-64 so it's a day later than yours. When you get the car if it truly is unrestored please add to these threads when you get a chance to look it over:

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…page=2&ARCHIVE=

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…&SearchTerms=SJ

The Arvinode is being produced and sold by Waldron's and you can order it here:

http://www.waldronexhaust.com/

Joe was offering forum members a discount.

Trading hands quickly; is that three owners in less than a year now?

You guys are so nice. How about a group hug?

Seller's response to my email:

"I sent an email a couple of months back to that registry and received no response. It was on ebay about one hour and the owner was calling. I hope he is the true owner of that car. I'm not convinced he values it as much as I do. thanks"

Give him points for trying. Hopefully the auction will put the motor back in the right hands.