The different size you are referring to is the interference fit that was discussed, and the squared thread is part of that. You needed to chase the threads in the head and that was the right thing to do, but you will have a ton of debris in your cooling system and will need to flush and backflush several times to get it all out.
Posts by round2K_old
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MCA rules are black or natural. Black springs were usually dipped.
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Parts are on ebay.
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MCA rules will dock 25 points right off the top for wrong exterior color. Still not a bad looking car, but the color changes hurt!
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Sent you PM on the reverse lights.
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Here is what I have determined for '65 with my research, including information on the springs from Jeff Speegle and Mark Vasquez:
Tony's book has paint daub colors listed on page 164. The springs were painted semi-gloss black and had a stripe applied with a brush that ran vertically across all of the coils. The color was a red-brown that is a little tough to nail down because all of the photos of original springs were of daubs that were pretty old. The paint was applied with the spring upside down, which would make sense as it may have been sitting in a plant or going down an assembly line upside down on the flat part of the coils. In this case, I could have used a "dry" brush and been more accurate, but I show the car in concours driven and usually have to clean it when I arrive at a show, so the added gloss isn't a bad thing by the time I get the bugs off from driving.[Blocked Image: http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/2443/dsc5428ct7.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/4848/p1010020bh4.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1700/p1010022nk7.jpg]
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Bo,
Correct; I should have been clearer. I think the cars he was referring to had SJ build dates in Dec. Does that sound right to you?? Team Shelby Speegle may know.
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Mark Vasquez has reproduced them. He is forum member
mmv.hipo
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I did some research on this a while ago and got in touch with Bill Heeley, the shifter linakge rebuilder. He thought late in the '64 calendar year, but did not have specifics. We have run a thread on this before here and it turned out that the angle shifter was found on cars through December. One of the SAAC guys, Craig Connelly at Paradise Wheel, told me that they considered them to be required for concours cars through Jan. of '65. I can't say how he supported that, perhaps from SAAC registration experience; I know he has owned a lot K codes himself. Unfortunately, I can't find the thread for you.
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Congratulations! Looks like it's all there.
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NPD has picked up the system and is offering it now. Check out the Mustang Monthly piece here:
http://blogs.mustangmonthly.com/6264129/ford-n…aust/index.html
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I have been using a free photo sizing program for several years that is pretty amazing, and user friendly. You put all your large images in one folder, and set up a "small" image folder to receive the resized images. Launch the program and follow the prompts and that's it; no need for doing images one at a time. From there you can upload whatever you need from the smaller folder.
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Sounds like good news all the way around.
Burt - can you get images of your undercarriage marks and post photos of them?
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He should get in touch with the SAAC Registrar and see if they can pair it up with the car by matching the VIN. (Shelby American Automobile Club.) The value of that document will be greatest to the current owner of the car. If the car was stuffed and is no longer in the SAAC registry then it's a neat thing, but simply a collectible.
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I believe that car belonged to Tim Shanahan and he bought it unfinished. It was for sale on ebay and those are the only images that I think we have seen of the car. It is supposed to be low mileage and lacking a number of original parts. He is in Northern California and I am close to him. I tried to arrange to see it so I could get a look at undercarriage chalk marks and was unsuccessful.
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If I read your post correctly this is a brand new motor and you have yet to put enough mileage on it to break it in. (Is that one, as in 1, mile?) Depending on the way the engine was machined and the piston and ring combination you will probably be producing a bit of oil smoke until the rings seat.
Water is a byproduct of combustion in normal, healthy engines and it shows up as vapor. If you are an around town driver and the car doesn't get a chance to reach operating temperature (or it sits in your garage running after a fresh rebuild) you will have additional condensation collecting in the exhaust. If you only have a mile on a new rebuild don't pull the motor apart chasing ghosts. Drive it and break it in, being careful to monitor the fluid levels.
If you notice water consumption or overheating during the break in period you will have some additional diagnosis to do. I am a proponent of leak down tests rather than compression tests to determine if head gaskets are having problems. If the engine was professionally rebuilt seek the advice of the person that did the work, if they're going to have to guarantee it they will have a vested interest.
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At one point, but now I show the car in concours driven class so I have removed all of the Shelby bits. I had the Moto Lita "a" version you have above shown so I wouldn't have to mess with the horn. It is not as correct as the Shelby concours style, but I was more interested in the function as the wheels are about 3" farther away from you than the original steering wheels and they are much more solid. You should be happy with either option as they are both good products.
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I have found that the easiest solution for the turn signal lever is to take the stock lever and shorten it by 1 3/4". You can find a gunsmith or competent machine shop that will do it for you and then you won't be banging your knuckles on a bent lever:)
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Nobody's picking on you; it was a good question.
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I believe their concours wheel will require the relocation of the horn.
