Posts by round2K_old

Gene - what's the scoop on yours?

Gene,

We just had a post by Paul Bougie indicating that he has a Metuchen build date of March 30, 1965 for his GT and it has evidence of being one of the Arvinode equipped GTs. It would seem that as Metuchen was ramping up they were late in making the transition to GT duals.

You are correct about there being two different hanger types as we confirmed that when we received the Ford engineering drawings. You car would be one of the very few GTs to have been Arvinode equipped before the change over to the standard GT dual system. This is a photo from an ebay auction and these were listed as Arvin parts. Jim Abbott had mentioned these to me and described them as an Arvin over the counter part that could be installed by cutting the rear valence with a template (which is in the Osborn books, also). If your rear hangers and trumpets are consistent with the drawing, and you have the correct clamps, this would confirm your Arvinode-equipped GT status, indeed rare. Beside production dates, the evidence of the hangers seems to be the best way to confirm an Arvinode system having been present at one time. Your car is the first we have seen with the later style horizontal clamp.

[Blocked Image: http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8985/20080412arvintrumpetsonst5.jpg]

Chris,

You will find that there are many answers to your questions in the existing data. Just use the advanced search function and include archived items.

The VIN numbers on the unibody are stamped in the fender aprons. On the driver side there are two; one is readily visible and the other is under the fender. There is a third VIN on the passenger side that is in the same location as the hidden VIN on the driver sie. The images below will show you the location relative to the underside of the car. If the car is not covered with sealer or undercoating you might be able to locate them without cracking the fenders loose. If not, then you will have to loosen the fenders and gain access that way. Keep an eye out for any sheet metal work that appears to have been changed, particularly welded, around the VIN location. It is not unheard of to have the VIN removed from an original car that was wrecked and then welded on to a donor car.

The other two places where the VINs were stamped were the bottom of the transmission and the right front side of the engine block. The stamped numbers should be similar in appearance.

Good luck with your authentication and don't feel shy about posting; there is no such thing as a dumb question and authenticating the car is important. If it has been covered before and you can't find it in the archive just ask for help and someone will point you in the right direction.[Blocked Image: http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/7629/vinsleftfrontfenderundeaz9.jpg]

Passenger side:

[Blocked Image: http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/4185/vinrightfenderundersidegx2.jpg]

There is enough history now with the Webers that I would imagine they can get them pretty close when you order them. I've sent the Inglese set up on a couple of cars and they ran beautifully, even idled at low rpm in an automatic. Back in the day if you found a Weber set up it was likely to be from something that was never meant to be on the street, so the venturis were always way too big for regular driving. I bought an early Cobra set up with the 48 IDAs for $500 in '79 and it was just beautiful after it was dialed in, but it wouldn't idle until we fooled around with it quite a bit and changed venturi sizes twice. You open the hood on one and people can't help but stare.

There's nothing like an 8 pack of Weber IDA air horns to get the blood pumping. The FI set up looks trick, with the possible exception of the wires down the middle. It is probably a lot less to deal with when it comes to tuning. I had a 48 IDA Cobra set up once and by the time I got done buying dyno time, venturis, and jets I needed to take out a second mortgage:)

He shot me an email and said it was already posted here for sale:

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8411

Well done guys; we did it!

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[Blocked Image: http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/624/mustangtimescoverarvinodb4.jpg]

I just noticed this FB on the VMF. Don't see a lot of info:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1494057/

Fellows - can you please use the appropriate case (upper & lower) in your posts to make easier on us old guys to read what you're saying?

Here is the sleeve version I was referring to:

[Blocked Image: http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/2785/20080131nosc5oz17260aspxe3.jpg]

Bo - I think the cable you have with the rubber sleeve is an early one before they changed over to the foam.

One more item, and perhaps Fred will help out here; I believe the foam was on the service replacement cables. The originals had the tapered rubber grommet that was one piece molded rubber.

Non-GT

I would agree with Ralph about lack of identification and ease of reproduction.

Feedback in the past 6 months shows an unfavorable trend -

Looks more like an omission than a misrepresentation....

Quote from kar-nut

The tapped holes in the cylinder head for the studs is a modified 7/16-14 UNC thread that is compatible with the threads on the original Ford studs. The minor thread diameter of the cylinder head tapped holes is 0.369"-0.372". Sealer is applied to stud treads prior to installation.

Tom,

Do you know if the dry fit on the stud and head was easy to turn before the application of sealer? It sure does seem like they've always been tight, but I've never had one that didn't have some mileage on it.

Try John Wyss at the Damper Doctor:

http://www.damperdoctor.com/

Last time I was in his shop I think he actually had one on the shelf. (I believe it was a Shelby item.)

If anyone has the following NOS items for sale please send me PM:

Reverse light bodys, with or without lenses.

Grille bars.

Horse and corral.

Left side mirror.

Standard rear view mirror.

Thanks.

Affirmative.