Posts by round2K_old

Bottom half of the bracket is black and the top is natural:)(Bottom half was painted as part of the engine assembly.)

Quote from BlueK

1) noticed very small amount of greyish smoke coming thru my oil filler cap. Is this normal? Suggestions on what the problem may be.

2)also, question on the clutch linkage. I noticed part of the clutch linkage appears to rest very close if not right on the exhaust pipe, is that normal in a Kar or does my linkage need some adjustment.

thanks

A little blowby is not uncommon if it is an older motor.

Regarding your clutch linkage, make sure you have the correct hipo pivot installed on the block side. It is the shorter of the two shown below. If not, the Z bar will be up against the exhaust pipe on the block side.

[Blocked Image: http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3707/20080202clutchpivotcompbu3.jpg]

Not much in the photos to help a buyer make an informed decision about authenticity. With the prior history and lack of detail it's buyer beware; get a good look up close with someone who knows K codes.

If you haven't had a lot of experience adjusting rear shoes without the benefit of the knockout access it is very likely you don't have them fully adjusted, particularly if you're relying on the self adjusters. Self adjusters need back and forth motion of the drum (backing up and going forward) to adjust and even then they don't always ratchet out like they should.

A spongy pedal is usually air, but it also sounds like you need to adjust the rear shoes up as well. You might check the rear shoe adjustment before you go through one more round of bleeding. The shoes are running out to meet the drums when you hit the pedal the first time, and they're already out there when you hit it the second time so there is less distance they have to travel resulting in less pedal travel.

Don't laugh now; stick the tube in the freezer overnight and then warm up the timing cover when you're ready to install. The fit on those things has always been ugly. Last time around I blasted the tube with Freon and it finally went in, but not without persuasion.

It would be more credible if he showed a shot of the dimple for the second spring in the top of the arm. I agree on the stamping of the numbers; haven't ever seen any out of algnment. It's unlikely Carter had someone stamping individual numbers on fuel pumps one number at a time.

Give him credit for lots of photos.

The registry shows 1,727 on the home page counter. Does anyone know if this is correct?

Beyond bolt on manifolds and the carburetor there is no fundamental difference between an early GT350 motor and a K code; they are the same engine. The red line is limited by your willingness and wallet.

The purpose of a ballast resistor is to lower the voltage across the points and reduce the prospect of burned points. I have run retrofit electronic ignition systems (without points) in a variety of cars and removed the ballast resistors as a regular practice. In some cases the system manufacturers even advocate removal of the resistor to improve system performance. Ford uses a resistor wire, as opposed to a fixed ceramic ballast, and it is not as easily bypassed, but still doable. The intent of bypassing the resistor during starting and going directly to the coil is to offset the lower available voltage during cranking.

Has anyone ever seen a driveshaft with the stripes on the front end of the shaft like that?

Fred,

I ran out of dough before I finished, but the good news is; you got me over the hump with the things I really needed for the Grand National in Utah and the Chico Concours.The grille bars and the reverse lights are perfect. Thanks.

Thanks for the help Fred.

Quote from canndy

It runs beautifully and is a blast to drive

Now you're getting it!

I'm good with a semi-gloss rattle can and a contemporary Motorcraft racing filter; can't afford $250+ for an oil change![Blocked Image: http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/9951/dsc3738wn9.jpg]

Quote from 6hypo5conv

I got my cable yesterday from LM (Daniel Carpenter repro) and it looks good to me....

How about a photo?

Then this poses an interesting question; what do they look like internally? Do you mean louvers like we have in the examples above? It would be worth a shot of the internals to see how they are configured. Your rear exhaust hangers are in great condition, and if those are original clamps then there's another mystery to unravel in the front mufflers; who made them, etc. I haven't found any aftermarket baffled units (yet) in the reaearch, but there's always a first time...

Looks like you still have the original side-tab H pipe, but the glass packs and clamps are aftermarket.

With the number of modifications you have to the car, it will have to really strike a chord with someone with similar taste to change hands. Having said that, I find it is always easier to lower the price, rather than the other way around.