I use image shack for free hosting. You can cut & paste their forum links pretty easily.
Posts by round2K_old
-
-
I doubt that you found '62 stampings on anything - worth a photo if you did.
-
Were consecutive unit numbers applied sequentially to all plant production, not just Mustangs?
Edited by - round2K on 06/27/2011 19:33:15
-
Great venue!
-
Looking good!
Does VM have any plans to find a way to reproduce the early square corner step plates?
-
You don't have to pull the motor to fix the equalizer assembly. It's pretty straightforward to access the parts and change them out. One thing to look out for is the correct HiPo pivot on the block - it is shorter than the standard piece and is available from NPD. If you have the longer version of the pivot it will bind. You can also drill and tap a hole for a zerk fitting so you can grease the z-bar as required in the future.
[Blocked Image: http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/2028/clutchreturnspring.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/8126/20080202clutchpivotcomp.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8947/hipoclutchpivot.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/6783/51f812.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/211/zbarfrombelow.jpg]
If you have a reasonable level of freeplay and all the parts properly installed the clutch pedal will sit higher than the brake.
Edited by - round2K on 06/08/2011 13:43:34
-
Murf's car has one screw and may be a Dearborn car - be worth finding out just to see if the two plants were doing things differently.
-
The OEM HiPo six vane has three holes in the back and is cast.
Ford did sell the impeller as a separate over-the-counter part through Ford Racing up until about two years ago. Some of them turn up from time to time on ebay and few fellows here have sold them.
Here images of the OEM impeller on an original Ford pump that I had rebuilt by the Automtive Friction folks in Oregon - their service was outstanding:
[Blocked Image: http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/7236/20050403waterpumpreplac.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/7236/20050403waterpumpreplac.jpg]
-
Early 65 article in MT showing the strap and hose routing.
[Blocked Image: http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/1696/motortrendarticlejan196.jpg]
-
Perfect - exactly what I needed. Thanks.
-
Does anyone know what Ford was chargin for the Monte Carlo bar over the counter in '65?
-
It should slide on to the point that you can catch a thread with the stock bolt. If you have to gently tap it into place suggest a wood block at the center of the hub to avoid damage to the rubber. You'll be happy with John's work - he does a great job.
-
Suggest you simply open the windows and go for a good long drive to get it warm and bake the paint, oil, etc.
-
Here are the results of earlier research done on the topic:
-
The blue are aftermarket. The black would be closest to original.
-
Wonderful story - thanks for posting it again.
-
I had a K convertible back in the '70's and I had one bend on me when I was pulling into the garage. Had to shut the motor down and jump on the brakes to avoid going through the wall! Started gusseting them back then on the recommendation of the local Ford parts manager and they were over-the-counter Ford parts. It was a very common issue.
-
It is a pretty common practice to weld gussets to the bar. There are some folks that swear this is unnecessary if the pivot bushings are properly cared for and lubricated. I've had enough of them bend through the years that I default to the gusset and install a zerk fitting on the bottom so it can be lubed.
[Blocked Image: http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6286/dsc5510lores.jpg]
-
Flashers were a dealer installed option in '65 and you could also by the kit over the counter from Ford.
-
Mark - the value is definitely the head tank as that's a standard trans SJ radiator. Anywhere from $200 and up depending on the motivation of the restorer looking for one.
Edited by - round2K on 02/09/2011 22:47:32