Posts by round2K_old

We could use some help from ex-Ford engineers on this one. They appear to have been quenched in oil or some other agent after forging or tempering, then machined. Jeff's example shows what the post-machining looks like. The finish is particularly hard to remove and once it's gone it's not easy to replicate. This color match was made by mixing two POR colors and then baking the finish on for half an hour. It would be great if someone has an original with the intact color for comparison against these restorations.

[Blocked Image: http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9093/dsc3644sy5.jpg]

Great photo Jeff! Thanks for posting it.

Jeff the issue of confidentiality is not unique to the Shelby's as there are many people that don't want others know the whereabouts of their cars. It's reasonable to assume the HiPo registry doesn't have every car it could for the same reason. I've encouraged at least 6 K code owners to add their cars to the registry and they didn't want to. I was just asking the question in general terms, not trying to tie the inquiry up in knots with precise information.

I'd still like to know how many 65-66 Shelby's are in the SAAC registry compared to the number of K codes in the HiPo registry.

You can make a jumper wire out of solderless terminals, pull the flasher and insert the jumper to bypass the flasher and isolate the problem.

Quote from SixfiveGT

Not to start a battle... but as someone who is relatively new to this forum I have to ask this question... here we have a "K" car that is only a "K" by serial number. Anything that made it a "K" is now long gone. If someone buys this shell and is foolish enough to try and rebuild it..... do we really have a "K" car? Almost nothing of the original sheet metal will be left, the engine, trans and rear are gone how would this group classify this car if it were to be rebuilt?

Now to ask the next logical question... someone has a complete drive train from a wrecked "K" and goes to all the trouble to find a rust free original sheet metal Ford shell then adds everything that Ford would have had on a "K" car... how would that car be viewed by this group?... I know the response from most on this forum would be "It's only a rebody". But is this car any more a clone than if this ebay car were to be restored? I remember Shelby's "continuation cars" were essentially rebodies but are still considered real.

I understand the ethical questions...especially how the car is presented.. but if Ford Factory originality is the only criteria i'm afraid that there would be very few "K's" that could past muster as 100% original.

So this was just a few thoughts that I had as I read this thread.... As I said in the begining I don't want to start any battles... just wanted to share a few musings..

The subject of rebodying cars has been discussed quite a bit and you can search the archive and find a lot of the dialgoue.

Shelby rebodies are a can of worms unto themselves; clones, fakes, etc.

As for 100% original cars after 45 years....suppose it depends on your definition of 100% original. There are many examples of concours correct cars that belong to forum members. As for completely or 100% original; water pumps, fuel pumps, clutches, motor oil, air in the tires, it all wears out or is changed eventually.

I would have to agree with Fred. Perhaps not muscle by definition, but I think it was the first use of the moniker HiPo; we ought to be able to get some consensus.

I didn't know you couldn't bid on ebay if you weren't registered. Seems a little odd and goes against the grain of a feedback system....

I was trying to get the seller to sell me the exhaust clamps.

This site has proved to be a terrific asset to HiPo Mustang, Cobra, Shelby, Fairlane and small block Ford owners. The contributions of Tony's book, the Forum horsepower when it comes to research, Marv's HiPo cam, Fred's fuel pumps, and that goofy muffler thing, and we're doing OK. Special thanks to Hank and anyone else who has contributed to keeping the technology up and running.

Two goals for 2009:

1. Confirm the driveshaft paint stripe colors by finding some original examples.

2. Another big HiPo reunion in Ventura, CA at the MCA West Coast National in August.

There is a restored pace car coupe for sale in California now. It is an original and I have seen the restoration photos and the car up close. It is not listed on the open market. It is interesting that dealers chose to remove the decals to sell them. Have any of the 3 convertibles with the Holman Moody prepped HiPos survived?

Just clean off the bugs and you're good to go.

I was looking at it from the vantage point of cars that are still alive. We have the production numbers for both groups, but how many are reported to survive by right of being in either registry; maybe a little more like tangarines and mandarin oranges.

It would be interesting to compare the number of 64 1/2 - 66 K codes in the HiPo registry to the number of 65 & 66 Shelbys (including the Hertz cars) in the SAAC registry.

Do you want period correct Ford originals for a resotration or just driver parts?

When it comes to oil you can end up in a long discussion of synthetics vs conventional oils and the lack of zinc/ZDDP in oil formulas today. You have 60K miles on the motor so break-in isn't an issue any more. If the engine noise is a newfound problem since the oil change, in the interest of keeping it simple you might want to go back to square one and put an appropriate weight of brand name oil in the motor (and change the filter). Ford recommended 10w-30 conventional oil.

Ahhh...well, then; I'd like to see a photo of those!

What is a "factory tramp rod"?

NPD has the repros, as do a couple of the other major vendors. They are acceptable in concours classes.

Ditto that with Google Chrome.