Perhaps they are upside down in the thing and hoping to get more.
Posts by round2K_old
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Quote from dunc289
In your " expert opinion ", did ANY slip through without the stamping, or were ALL stamped and then something happened? I thought there were some bonifide original Kars , that did NOT have the stampings. Inquiring minds want to know.



Are you worried because your doesn't have a VIN stamped on it?
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Marv
Without all of the hard work that has gone into the HiPo Forum we would not have had a place to exchange information. The project was a real team effort by Forum contributors with special thanks due to these fellows:
Herb Gordon
Karl Seifert
Tom Glotkowski
Charles Turner, MCA Head National Judge 1st & 2nd Generation Mustangs
Bob Mannel, author of Mustang & Ford Small Block V-8, 1962-1969
Joe Tonietto, owner of system manufacturer Waldron's Antique Exhaust.
Scott Halset, NPD
and most importantly,
Dick Irwin, son of Arvinode patent engineer Benjamin Irwin.
Jim Abbott, the Arvin prototype shop foreman who was the original fabricator of the system.
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The dealers seems to like buying these coupes from each other. This poor car needs to go to someone who will take care of it.
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It's the BJ car:
Lot Number 407*Auction Scottsdale 2009
Sale Price $34,100.00
Year 1965
Make FORD
Model MUSTANG
Style COUPE
Exterior Color YELLOW
Interior Color BLACK
Cylinders 8
Engine Size 289
Transmission 4-SPEED MANUAL
Summary A "K" Code coupe that is better than new with all new pieces. A California car with no rust. A rotisserie restoration.
Details This Mustang is a 1965 "K" Code coupe and is better than new with all new pieces. A California car with no rust. It is straight and one of the best that can be found. The car speaks for itself. It has had a rotisserie restoration. Also has original Data Plate.
* Includes 10% Buyer’s Premium
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This would be a fun driver; no hubcaps or SS wheels to worry about. It would be nice if it had the original manifolds and transverse duals.
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Just received the 2009 NPD catalog and the Arvinode reproduction project is now 100% complete. You can buy the entire concours correct system including all of the correct clamps. Great job HiPo forum.
[Blocked Image: http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/7646/npd2009catalogarvinodepjz5.jpg]
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There was a discussion of this topic a couple of years ago. There were definitely some blue bases on early cars; the all gold rule has been found to be flawed. The 5A base, in particular, has been found in both gold and black. I'll dig around for the earier item in the archive.
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There are images of the ghosts I found on my shaft during restoration. Unfortunately no colors to work with. This is a 12/30/64 SJ car.
[Blocked Image: http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7674/dsc6395gc9.jpg]
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Somebody is trying to make a quick buck.
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You can buy the high quality 90 degree ends and the appropriate crimping plier from any NAPA store.
Belden 727004
[Blocked Image: http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/897/bel727004da9.jpg]
They also sell a straight equivalent. You have to strip the insulation, fold over the wire, then crimp it. Used these for years and they are great.
I couldn't find the plier on the NAPA site, but here is an image of the plier you need from the Snap-On site.
[Blocked Image: http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/1594/21742gj7.jpg]
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.a…ore&dir=catalog
I have Marti wires on my car and they fit like a glove out of the package. Not sure what issue you are having with respect to them being too long. Have you tried calling Kevin and asking him about it?
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Yes the advance can stick. If you pull off the cap you should be able to determine if the advance is frozen by gently twisting the rotor in either direction. There should be soft, but obvious spring tension. You can also use a timing light and watch the advance run up as you bring up the RPM from idle. A couple of real simple tests.
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Not sure what your issues are in referring to being pissed off. We're just trying to respond to the original post:
Quote from 6hypo5convI am not talking about one of those clones that have been talked about on here recently, I am talking about a real original correct 9" 1965 assembly all done to concours specs, with new brakes and everything execpt ebrake cables.
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I suppose that's up to the integrity of the seller and a little expertise on the part of the buyer.
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Quote from s2ms
This should help. This is the original tube from my car, stripes to the rear.....
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/driveline.jpg]
Dave - Do you know if the stripes on your shaft were original to the car, and if so, what color are they? (Color-challenged vision.)
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Would that be the "new" DOT 3 that was replacing DOT 2?

What a bund of dinosaurs we are.
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Fellows, maybe I missed something here, but there was a question asked about an original rear end, restored and complete. A reproduction, clone, tribute, or whatever you want to call a part that is being built today is something that is not original.
I would agree with Hank; there may be some complete rear ends out there, but I don't recall having seen one that was in concours condition for sale with all of the attendant brake parts attached. If we did see one with the appropriate third member and a 3.89 or 3.50 open gear set it would be easy to value at $2,500+.
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Troy - just couldn't bring yourself to spray a generous and sloppy dose of concours correct sound deadener on that nice firewall, could you?
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The ex-Nelson brothers 65 K vert with the AC sold for $73,700.
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Jeff - I think the finish on the later cars is darker than the finish on the 65-66s. Do you have any early examples?