Posts by round2K_old

Scott,

That was info received from Scott McNair while researching the Arvinode and transverse dual info at the SJ plant during that period.

Like this, but with a different date:)

[Blocked Image: http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/2029/20070927radiatorinstall.jpg][/URL]

Quote from RPM

Somewhere I read if it didn't have anything to do with you or you had nothing for sale DON'T COMMENT.Goes for all the people who feel like they need another post added to their profile.I'm glad those of you who have deep pockets don't mind getting took but when I start a thread and someone offers to sell something for what you paid for it which was way out of line you both should keep your comments to yourself!

What gives you the right to tell people to not comment in a public forum?

Quote from RPM

Wasn't meant to be insult but you must have alot of money as I've bought them for $15-30 in the past.Just FACT!

Give it a break; this isn't the old days. Rare parts aren't cheap any more. If you ask for help and then choose to complain about the prices you're not going to get anywhere.

Your car would have been Arvinode equipped.

I'm on the road and will upload Murf's images tonight. Thanks for all the help John.

Unfortunately there is no way to authenticate those straps that have been selling on ebay. I'll stick with recreating my own based on research with you fellows. Thanks.

If anyone has an original heater hose strap they can measure it would be appreciated - length and width.

Thanks.

To add to what Craig and Fred have contributed;

Ford destroyed the production data for the early cars, and rumors abound as to the actual way the records disappeard. Most of the information that has been collected on the K codes has been gathered by forum members documenting their own cars.

Quote from 67kcodeGT

This could be interesting as we repop these and they look just like the OEM ones!

Huh? What do you mean??

There is also a fellow named Mark Frappier you can reach through the Stanger site and he does the stainless sleeving. He WIL NOT reassemble the valve for you due to liability issues.

Mark,

If you are going to to do your own rebuid it is best to get the valve apart to determine the correct parts kit. There are a number of people that do the stainless steel sleeving, and the recommended procedure before disassemly of the valve is to measure the distance from the nut to the top of the threaded adjuster to have a baseline for reassembly. You can find a lot of good info here:

http://www.stangerssite.com/brakevalve.html

I agree that once the brakes are set up there's no need for a brake booster.

Looking for an alternator condenser for a 12/64 SJ car. Thanks.

Mark,

There is a push in clip fastened to the back of the weatherstrip. You can pull the door panel and get in behind some of the clips and help them out, or get between the door and the back of the weatherstrip with a flat tool. Be careful to avoid chipping the paint. It's easier to do if the window is all the way down in to door to the bottom of the regulator travel.

The repros are OK at best. If you can get NOS you will probably be happier. If you get a replacement part in your hands before you take them out you'll have a decent roadmap.

Quote from Mu5tanggt

Kar was bought new by my father and has never had the trans out except when we replaced the clutch in 1983. Engine VIN stamping is very poor quality also.

Guess that answers the question of authenticity and provenance.

Nice to see them matching. What was the scheduled build date?

I would recommend that you continue to research the source of the stamping. We've seen a lot of transmission and block stamping, but I can't recall ever having seen the mix and match approach to the size of the number and letter dies. I agree with Fred on the 3 and the size of the letters being unusual, and the backward K is equally odd.

I have to ask this, and it may be a dumb question, but why does he have that particular spark plug on the home page for vintage Mustang parts?

It is listed above.

Better weather, bigger audience, etc.

I agree with Murf on the Gabriels if you want a concours replacement. If you take the time to prepare them by filling in the "57" stamped in the top of the front shocks and then repaint them black they are as close to originals as you can get.