Getting back to my origial question, does anyone have one they want to part with? My NOS Threaded AC unit is available. I also could use a chrome oil cap stamped FoMoCo with the vent hose fitting that goes to the air cleaner. Anyone know anything about the Re-Po's that Branda sells? Most likely have to settle for one of those.
Thanks
Bill
The car was built in December, 1964. It has the brass elbow with the PCV valve screwed in. Not original as the intake, carb and distributor were stolen in 1978. Everything replaced with proper date coded stuff, only thing left are a few small, impossible to find items like the correct PCV valve and a throttle return spring.
Thanks
Bill
Anyone have an original PCV valve for a 65 they want to part with? I have an NOS AC valve with the threaded end. I don't think it's correct for an early 65 though.
Thanks
Bill
I don't know if these people are stupid, or just think we are.
There is a 289 HP bare block for sale on 'bay right now. The guy wants $3695.00 + $200.00 shipping for it. I guess this stuff is worth whatever someone will pay for it.
Don't usually use NPD, guess I will have to put an order together.
Thanks
Bill
My car was original equipment with a PCV Valve. When I acquired it, it had the Ford open style breather on the left valve cover without the host fitting going to the air cleaner. I have since rounded up the correct oil cap and removed the tape that sealed up the air cleaner fitting. What I don't have is the hose that goes from the oil cap to the air cleaner. Heater hose fits, but I am sure it's not correct. Anyone know what the correct hose should be?
Thanks
Bill
The first photo is an OEM Air Cleaner. The area noted is actually a large, constant radius you can see and feel.
[Blocked Image: http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/815/aircleanermz9.jpg]
The photo below is a Reproduction. In the same area, instead of a radius it's more like two flat angles separated by bend, When you feel it, they are actully flat joined by a curve. Apparently, when Ford made the die to stamp the air cleaners, they took some time and machined a radius instead of taking the quick way out and just cutting two flat angles and a small radius.
[Blocked Image: http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/7387/repomediumfd0.jpg]
This information is based on looking at many original and reproduction air cleaners.
As soon as I can figure out how to post photos (Need to acquire some free web space, which so far has eluded me, any help here greatly appreciated) this will becomes very clear. When you know what to look at, the difference is apparent. It is very easy to tell a repo air cleaner from an original.
After my first post, I had an occasion to compare two re-po air cleaners with an original from a 66 HiPo. I noticed a difference that became evident when comparing air cleaners side by side. Today, I took delivery of another known original air cleaner and it confirms what I suspected last week. Studied them for quite a while, and this is what I found:
• All three had the dimples for the wing nut.
• Metal thickness in all three was the same. .031 to .039
• The outer edge lip on one of the re-po’s exactly matched the original unit in angle and small radius. The other lip had a larger radius and bent down at a perfect 90 degree angle. Hard to see unless you really knew what you were looking at.
On first glance it is very hard to tell them apart. One of the re-po’s had a “Made in Taiwan” sticker on the underside, and a couple times we needed to look at it to be sure. Further study revealed the real differences between the original and the re-productions;
From the center of the air cleaner, the top comes out flat then dips down at an angle to a radius that locates the inside of the paper element. On the original Ford air cleaner, where it comes out from the center and dips down is actually a rather large radius. On both of the re-po’s, this is two angles with a bend in the middle. Apparently when Ford made the OEM stamping die, they incorporated a radius in this area. Whoever made the re-po’s didn’t notice or worry about this. If you look closely, the difference becomes evident.
It’s the difference between a $25.00 Taiwan repo and one made by FoMoCo.
That does explain the differences in the transmissions, which I am aware of, but doesn't mention the torque converters. I am almost sure that the HiPo converters had more stall than the stock ones did but I could be wrong. (According to my wife, I usually am)
Thanks
Bill
I have a friend who is in process of restoring a 66 HiPo car with a factory automatic. The transmision is not the porblem, it all seems to be there, but the torque converter may have been replaced. The one he removed is stamped "Rebuilt" and is painted blue. It had absolutely no stall speed.
I have some questions:
What was the original HiPo converter? Was it different from a stock Mustang unit? Stall?
For a stock resto, what would be a good alternative?
Thanks
Bill
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Tell us more about the car. Shelby #, condition, how you found it, etc...
Mike
SFM 5 017
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Mike
I would love to see some photos of your car. Check out
Thanks
Bill
How do you tell a real HiPo aircleaner from a Repo? I had a double hump air cleaner that was incorrect for my car. I traded it to a friend who has a 289 Cobra and needs this air cleaner. I suspect the one he gave me is a repo, which I have a couple of. The repo and the one that is suposed to be an original are both .031 thick. The quality of some of the repo's are pretty good so for you experts: How to you really tell the difference. (There is no problem here, the guy I traded to will make it right)
Thanks
Bill
Any part of the car that is supposed to have a hole, lowered control arms, export brace etc- is easily duplicated. What is hard is correcting an area where there isn’t supposed to be a hole but one exists. The shock tower area on Mustangs not intended for export has the brackets for the cowl braces. To install the export brace, the welded on brackets would have to be cut off and the welds ground down. This is impossible to hide for a real expert. Another area is the dimples for the fold down door hinges going into the trunk area. These were drilled on all Mustangs EXCEPT Shelby’s. Once again, impossible to hide. You could weld them up, grind them down and with enough paint, maybe get away with it except for someone who really knows what to look for. Years ago, I asked Howard Pardee if a 65 Shelby could be re-bodied and be indistinguishable from real car. He told about the above things and said there were a number of other things he wouldn’t talk about. He did add “It would be virtually impossible to fool us”
We used a Bronco pilot on a 260 Ford engine in a Super Stock Eliminator Drag car. We were using a wide ratio T-10, the trans was out of a Galaxie. Spun the motor 7,000+ on every pass, never had a problem. That's not to say that this combination would work for everyone. Using the correct length main shaft with the proper pilot bearing is very important in keeping those gold plated transmissions alive. I went through my T-10M a few years ago, works great but I am still planing on converting to a T-5 this summer. What's your car number?
When we had a big block transmission with the short pilot shaft that we wanted to use behind a small block, we used to use the pilot bearing from a late 60's Bronco. The Bronco pilot bearing was roughly twice as thick as the regular pilot bearing and solved the problem.
The road draft tube / PCV Valve thing brings back a lot of memories. In the mid 1960's, one of the first "emission" laws the state of California passed mandated PCV Valves. At that time, we wanted nothing to do with them. As far as we were concerned, they were:
A) A giant Vacuum leak
A source of oil contaminated air being sucked back into the engine.
The general consensus was “Who wants to suck that dirty oil back into the engine?”
Back then, guys who bought cars that had PCV Valves took them off and installed road draft tubes and vented oil caps. What we didn't know at the time was the closed crankcase system would extend the life of an engine over the Road draft tube system because dirty, “road draft” air was not being sucked in to the engine during deceleration to contaminate the oil. What we ddin't know was PCV valves did way more good than harm.
Since the Shelby's were produced in California, it was always assumed that they all had PCV valves. I talked to a guy who has a 65 GT-350 that is earlier than mine. It was originally sold in Arizona and has a road draft tube on the right valve cover. I asked him about this, he says it's factory and there is another 65 originally sold in Arizona that has the same setup.
Live and learn.
There are a number of engines that need extensive modifications to the oiling system to keep them alive at 7000+ RPM. The non-side oilier FE Ford engine we used to run in Super Stock eliminator car took some specialized drill bits and a lot of time, and these engines were using roller camshafts. The 289 doesn't suffer from these problems. In light of the present situation with the lack of critical additives in the available oil, the only thing I would do would be to be sure there were screw in plugs in the front three lifter galleys. IMHO, restricting oil to the lifters is not necessary and courting disaster.
The problem seems to be getting new, flat tappet camshafts through the critical break-in period. Engine builders all across the country were reporting camshaft failures which was finally traced to the fact that the oil manufacturers removed Zinc from motor oil. This was done for emission purposes?
Most of the present day engines use roller cam followers which do not require Zinc.
There are a number of cures for this:
1) Do not restrict oil galley passages. As much oil as possible needs to splash around the camshaft area. Street engines will never know the difference.
2) Use GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) This product has been around in one form or another since the 1960's. Besides Zinc, this product contains Moly.
3) Good old "STP" is said to contain the required additives. I haven’t tested this and frankly, I would have a hard time pouring STP in my Shelby.
4) Polish the bottom of new lifters with oil soaked Crocus cloth. Use Comp Cams camshaft lobe lube.
I use 1/2 bottle of GM EOS in my car at every oil change.
