Posts by BoS_old

I use the flame thrower on my 67 and it fits very well.

It's a little bit longer than the original but fits fine.

The biggest difference is in performance together with

Pertronix ignition cables. Like a new car.

/Bo

Or maybe he was confused between the 66 and 67 models.

/Bo

Wallace,

You say your car's build date is November 9, 1966,

wouldn't that make it a 67 model.

/Bo

Hi Duke,

I have the 66 Shop Manual in front of me now and the

Rally Pac wiring can be seen in section 15 page 16.

If you have an original 66 Tach you just hook it up between the

wire that is coming from the coil (pink resistor wire) and the end going to the ignition switch. To be precise: Black wire from Tach (female connector) shall be connected to pink resistor wire (male connector) and red wire (male connector) from Tach shall be connected to red-green stripe (female connector) going to switch. If you connect the pink and red-green wire together, i.e. bypass the Tach the car shall start without any problems.

The light hook up is also shown.

If you have a repo tach it is most likely to be connected differently.

Good luck!

Please keep me informed how it's going

/Bo

Thanks,

The date code is stamped on the opposite flange to the

3939S marking. Is it the I14A that you stated.

If so, I guess it's 1:st of Sept.1964.

Too early for my car but if it's the crimped design it should be worth between $400-600 if in need of a rebuild.

/Bo

Could you inform me what the date code is?

Thanks,

Bo

I don't think that the comment about Pertronix is correct.

My 67 Shelby's tach is hooked up exactly like an original

Rally Pac (have in fact tested my Rally Pac in the Shelby)

with a Pertronix and it works fine. An original Rally Pac

is hooked up in series (like stated above) and is connected

through the resistor wire from the positive (+) side of the coil.

/Bo

Thanks Charles, but according to the seller it's never been used only been on a shelf in his garage for, at least, the last 15 years. Will find out this summer if the mounting holes have ever had screws through them.

Dave, just send the list and I'll look. Can't promise anything though, just kidding.

A friend in Sweden called me a couple of weeks ago and said he bought a 4-speed for the parts and when he got home he found

a serial number stamped in the bottom, 7R02K18XXXX. I checked

with Dave Mathews at SAAC and he confirmed it was a Shelby GT350

trans. Contacted the owner of the car who is now negotiating

to buy the trans. So parts are there, for sure.

/Bo

Thanks Charles,

Is this a correct plenum,i.e. non-tar coated?

The guy who sold it to me wrote a Swedish book

about the early Mustangs. He gave some copies

to MCA Directors in Charlotte some 9 years ago.

/Bo

Charles,

I'll send you some pictures to your email adress

and maybe you can post them here.

/Bo

Thought I should share some good news

with you guys.

This week I found a NOS heater plenum,i.e.

it has never been mounted on a car and of

all places I found it in Sweden. Paid

about $120 for it. Also found the water pump

I have been looking for at ebay. Also $120

and dated 65 with four dots, i.e. April 65 and

rebuilt.

/Bo the happy camper

Happy Birthday and Thanks guys,

Bo

In my opinion, no and if it's registered under the Shelby Vin

it's probably illegal. If however, it's registered under it's

donor car serial number, it's probably okay.

/Bo

Fred,

66 paint code #5, Signal Flare Red is the most

beautiful Mustang color in my opinion.

When I repainted my 67 Lime Green Shelby in 1978

I opted for Signal Flare Red with GM White Le Mans

stripes. Came out absolutely stunning and is still

on the car today.

/Bo

The top is the same so the only thing you need to find is

the bottom. 6A dated would be best but a 5A would probably

do as well. It needs the Closed Crankcase Emission system

(hose spout) as it is Shelby.

/Bo

"There was no way to know exactly which model car would receive a specific engine at that point in time."

Well, I am still confused. If the engine plant didn't know

which model car, auto or manual in 66, this would mean that the

flywheel had to be put on by the car factory which seems odd to

me.

/Bo

A question, isn't the date supposed to be when the

engine was assembled and not the planned production

date of the car. Seems logical to me that the tag

was placed on the engine when they assembled it

but I may be wrong. Has happen many times before.

/Bo

I bought a used (restored) original from J.D. Larson.

The one with a button and it has a 5DBC date code

which fits my car perfectly.

Beautiful and works like a charm but pricy, $195.

/Bo

The casting you mention, T10-H7B is located on the

tail shaft correct? The housing should have the

a casting saying T10-H1. This trans came on mustangs

with, I believe, the following gear ratio: 1st 2.73,

2nd 2.04, 3rd 1.50 and 4th 1.00.

The H10 C5 could be the assembly date, Aug 10, 1965.

The T10 in my 65 Shelby has D295 2 stamped just behind

the side cover and that means April 29th, 1965, second shift.

My trans has T10-M1 casted on the housing and T10-M7 on the

tail shaft.

/Bo

Used the advanced search feature and found it.

Dated Nov. 2005 and under Restoration and

65 Air Cleaner Base Paint

/Bo