Posts by BoS_old

I would never leave power steering on a performace

Mustang. My 67 Shelby came with PS and I replaced it with

manual and lowered the front upper pivots according

to the Boss 302 Chassis Manual. I have mine set as my

65 Shelby, 2 Degrees Caster, 0 Degrees Camber and 1/8"

Toe In. Drives like a charm and I have never had any problems

with tire wear. If you go negative on Camber you will most

likely see increased tire wear. To replace a PS on a 67 to

manual is very easy, pitman, idler and steering link

only. To do the same on a 65/66 I believe you need new tie rods as well if I don't recall wrong.

Good luck, Bo

I have seen cars with two red stripes as well as one.

That's for hipo's of course. Also some cars got white

stripes if the test pressure found out that the

particular spring was borderline on the lowest allowable

value. This has been discussed on this forum many times

and I suggest you use the search feature.

/Bo

Bob,

I bought the 65 type from Jim Chism last week

and will probably get them sometime this week.

His telephone numbers etc. are shown in an earlier

post on this subject. Please use the search function

and you will find it.

/Bo

Dave,

Craig Conley probably meant 65 Shelbys that

were finished in Jan 65. The first 113 Shelbys

were built at Ford before Christmas 64 so they

have been equipped with the sharp curved shifter.

/Bo

Did the same on my 65 Shelby when I restored

it in the beginning of the 90's. Found an excellent

piece of foam at a dismantling yard, Monty's Mustang

Mart in Denver, CO, sliced it and put it on my NOS

wire, glued it. Still fine after 16-17 years.

/Bo

Dan,

I have a 6-bolt HiPo engine assembled in August

of 64. It came out of a Mustang.

/Bo

Lyle,

My Shelby would outrun a moose any day, with or without

fence. Fun aside, when I drove the Shelby 67 this summer

from the Club of American Ford's Convention to our summer

house, a drive of about 200 miles, a moose came up about a 100

yards in front of me, stopped in the middle of the road and

admired my car. It is a nice view and I was sitting there looking

at her for several minutes before she ran into the woods on the

other side of the 2 lane highway. Swedish moose cost several

people their life every year when they collide on the roads.

Over the years I have had several close encounters with these

large animals.

/Bo

It is always more dangerous to drive a mid

60's car than a new car. About 25 years ago,

on my way home from work, in Stockholm Sweden,

a bus hit a Volvo Amazon from behind and the fuel

tank erupted and spilled fuel all over the people

inside the car. It was a young mother and her two

children. All three burned to death. I would put a safety

barrier between the trunk and back seat on any

old Mustang or any other old car like the Volvo that

I drive more or less daily to minimize the risk like

I would also install and use seat belts.

/Bo

It's normal that the temperature goes up when you turn

the engine off after letting it idle for 20-30 minutes.

The question is, did it go down after a while when you

restarted the engine.

/Bo

I suggest you put the concourse wheel on your car.

/Bo

Charles, you were correct as usual. I am back from Sweden with

the plenum and it's an excellent used one dated Y5KB.

We checked my friend's Shelby 6S923 if he needed a plenum

but his was excellent as well and date coded the same date

as his heater core, Y6AB.

/Bo

Float level adjustment figures are specified in

the 66 Shop Manual. However, I couldn't find any data

for a 66 Auto HiPo C6ZF-F. Another thing, have you checked

the advance curve on your distributor?

/Bo

Don't think it's the coil as they normally show

their bad side on high rpm's. Too me this problem

sounds like a carb that has an issue between the

idle and main system when you press the gas pedal.

Does it react at all on the idle mixture screws?

If not, it can be a faulty or wrong power valve or flaps that

aren't adjusted correctly. In my opinion though,

I think the most likely issue is the float adjustments.

Pony rebuilt my 3259 Holley for my 65 Shelby many

years ago and it ran like a bear with the symptoms

you describe. It was two major issues, float levels

were wrongly adjusted and the power valve had the incorrect

opening value. After I corrected the two issues it ran excellent.

/Bo

Welcome,

Approximately how many K cars including Shelbys are

there in Israel?

/Bo

I have been running BF32's for over 30 years

in my 67. Worked fine at all times. Gapped them

at the recommended 0.028-0.032" until I installed

Pertronix, coil and ignition wires at which time

I increased the gap to 0.032-0.035"

/Bo

Thanks Fred,

That means they are originals.

/Bo

As far as I know, there were no official 64 1/2

models or model year. They were all 65's and as

such should be included in the numbers mentioned

in the letter.

/Bo

Thanks Charles.

/Bo

While we are on this topic, how can I determine if

my retainers are original or not. Have three that are all

stamped on the bottom, C-4ZB-7262-B, Don't know why a stroke

between C and 4. They are also stamped with a PP just above

the C-4 number. Somebody told me that this is a repo as

the PP means Pro-Products or something. Is this correct. I have

had one of these since the 70's.

Thanks,

Bo

Once I did this the hard way, no rope seal, of course,

by just removing the last cap and press the seal all around

with my thumb. Still remember how my thumb felt for years after that.

/Bo