Posts by Murf_old

Several years ago there was a very good article in Mustang Monthly pertaining to gas tanks on Mustangs. Bob Perkins showed the readers "the real thing", and one of the little details was the fact that the metal was stamped with a logo of either "U. S. Steel" or "American Stamp Steel" and also possibly a date. The metal was then formed into a tank and this stamped logo showed in random places ( I think) on the top and bottom of the tank. Does anyone know what issue and what year that article was published? OR better yet do any of you have a Ford tank with this stamping still present and good enough to be captured in a photo. I would love to have some more info on this obscure aspect of Mustang production. Thank you for any help!

Count me in - see you there!

How stupid of me. Had never even considered checking on the inside. Thanks, that has been on my list of inponderable subjects for 25 years. You guys get a GOLD STAR! Now how does one read the code when the tire is dismounted? Anyone have an image of the stamp along with the details? Standard format of Ford date code or one that is exclusive to K/H?

Has anyone EVER found a date code on Ford 65 or 66 styled steel wheels? It is not typical that Ford neglected to date stamp a part, but try as I might no date shows up. Can anybody enlighten us?

I purchased a windsheild from P S Auto Glass, Wisconsin . The glass was great, the service was great, the shipping was great as well. I was SO HAPPY! Phone contact is Erik at 866 565 9557. He sent me a scan of the logo that they use, it matched my old one perfectly including the "color" He will date code to match your original. Price is much much better than OEM . I have purchased from OEM in the past and the glass they use as a base is - or at the time of my purchase - not the greatest, and some optical flaws were in it. Do yourself a favor and at least get a quote from P S Auto Glass. They made me very happy with every respect of the transaction. I think they have a quality operation. Others may have used them too and will endorse their product.

Yes, please post image of 66 warranty card. It is possible that Ford changed the card when they switched from 65 to 66 production but at this point it is all a guess. These little cards still remain a mystery.

Yes, please scan your card and post. Thanks!

Does anyone have an ORIGINAL WARRANTY (owners card) card for a 65 K code? I have tried for many years to locate an image of one but no dice thus far. Has anyone ever SEEN a warranty card for a "K" car? Any help appreciated! PM me if you have an issue with posting an image of your card.

32 PSI COLD! Remember that I still run the OLD bias ply tires. Radials I am sure would give a 8 - 10% inprovement. These old cars really are not that much of a fuel hog IF you have mature driving habits.

At 65 - 70 MPH using "good" gasoline I normally get 20 MPG, normally it is very warm when I drive this car (summer). Have put in 500 plus mile days going to car shows and it is pretty much something I can count on over the past many years. Have a "C" code conv (thermactor) that does not do this well as a point of reference. The hipos run as if they are on ball bearings, and my car typically used almost a quart of oil every thousand miles, as I suspect it probably did when it was new. They run very easy at highway speed but the motor sounds very "busy" by todays standards. I Do not monitor the oil temp but water temp runs about 190 (thermostat setting) on even the hottest days. Overheated once when the thermostat fell apart and stayed open, strange as that sounds. Once the stat was replaced with one that modulated properly the temp stays constant, although over the years the radiator core has become less able to transfer heat and had to be replaced. Nothing really stopped up the core, they simply lose their abiity to transfer heat due to some type of deposit that I cannot see!

I have a 289, 271 HP, 3:50 gear, 6.95 X 14 tires (reproduction Goodyear) and have been driving with some regularity the same car for 22 years. If you want a good rule of tuumb to use, divide your speed by 2 and you will be very very close to the engine speed in RPM. Remember this only works with the 6.95 X 14 tires. One hardly needs to look at the tachometer with this method.

The car still had 95% of the original paint on it when I purchased it in 84. It was blotchy and had lost its true color. I repainted it then, and that job lasted until a year or so ago when it began to fail. I stripped completly and had it repainted with Sikens BC/CC this time, and it looks a mile deep. Paint has come a long way in 40 years, and this job will probably last as long as I am around. Honey Gold is a very obscure color, not too many still around. It really can "pop"! It is really a light metalic green, seldom does it have a gold look except at sunset. Never did figure why they called it "gold".

I have a Honey Gold fastback with ivy green and white pony interior if you need a couple of images. I have spoken with the original owner of my car as well. I searched for him for 20 years, recently located him thanks to a phone ID program that my son had for his work as a police officer. The guy now lives in Scottsdale Az, and he was surprised to hear from someone who had his "new" car. I purchased it from the second owner, so have had visits with everyone who has owned my K car. The original owner went to Hawkinson Ford in Chicago to purchase a 65 Shelby that they had in stock, but upon arrival the car had been sold. The owners son got the car, and the deluxe interior GT hipo that the kid had on order became available suddenly when he decided to "get" the Shelby. Had a nice visit with the original owner, he said he had kept some of the paperwork for the car but due to a divorce his ex wife had "custody" of the documents. He promised to try and get them, but told me that if he expressed interest in them his ex would burn everything rather than let him have something he wanted. So far no dice, but Ihave the original owners mmanual with the owners name and old addy filled in. It is a small world!

The cars that had the "D" and were equipped with disc brakes were both San Jose and Dearborn. Again, it may have just been something that happened and does not indicate a disc brake car - just something that I have observed over the years and thought that now was a good time to see if this theory holds water. The New jersey cars are a mystery to me, seldom see one in the Midwest. I hope that others chime in on this discussion and let uys know about the "D" found on early Mustangs. I have been curious about this for many years.

At the end of line four way out by itself is a little character that i could never identify. Looks like an "Italic" capital "F". or perhaps "%". Can anyone identify that little mark and explain what it signified? I hope that Bill can post the card for the hipo, I have never seen one of those!

This is no more than just an observation over the last thirty years of fooling with Mustangs, it may only be by chance that this happened, BUT here is my suspicion: the "K" obviously mmeans the 271 motor, no argument there. I have seen quite a few with the K/D on the drivers side outer engine compartment, usually just about directly on the other side of the washer bag location on the 65 -66 Mustangs. Without exception all of the cars with the "D" had disc brakes. I had an "A" code San Jose GT coupe that had only the "D" written opposite of the washer bag in fact. I have always suspected that the "D" simply indicated to the assembly guys that the vehicle was to get disc brakes. My "K" fastback (Dearborn) had the "K/D" in grease pencil , and looking at many photos of shelby restorations - before and after the resto this same marking appears. Is this for sure? I have no idea, just wanted to throw this concept out to you guys and see what develops. If you have images of the K/D on an original car without disc brakes then obviously this theory has holes in it. So dig out your old photos and prove that you have had these markings on a drum brake car and we will continue to search for the real meaning of the K/D. I agree 100% with Jeff about the fact that it in no way indicates "knock down". That appeared in MM years ago in an article written by Jerry Heasley about a Shelby that had been done by Bob Perkins and has somehow become an "urban legend". Many knew at the time of publication that this was false but no one ever publically disputed the article.

Bill:

Are you able to post an image of the plaxtic warrenty card? Or can someone help by posting it for you? those cards are a pretty elusive item to view! Thanks.

Does anyone have the original warranty card for a 65 hipo. I have never seen one and have always been curious if they exist and if the shortened warranty period of the 271 is noted on the plastic card. Anybody have one?

Your original coil has a date on the yellow top portion. Not too many folks are aware of this, but between the posts you will find - if you look closely - a letter and a number that are in a RAISED print, not stamped. The numeral is the year, the letter is the month. Check out the one you have! Little details like this are what drive me nuts, and now you can share a portion of my mental demons. This may be one of the things you wish you did not know because now you will spend hours and $ getting the corect one.

I use Mobil Gear oil in my 9 inch rear end in addition to using it in the transmission. Have a 66 "C" code Mustang and have used Mobil 1 gear oil in the 8 inch on for years. It foams less, and never ever has spewed any out of the vent tube even in very cold weather, which is exactly what dino gear lube did. I use it on the hypoid gear on a couple of shaft drive motorcycles as well and sometimes fly a little plane that has synthetic gear oil in the speed reducer that drives the prop. I am sold on the stuff needless to say.