Posts by Murf_old

When they manufacture a replacement piston for an engine such as you have, the compression ratio is known and the new piston is configured so that the overall compression ratio is not changed. While it is true that all things equal an overbore will increase the compression ratio since it is volume at tdc over volume at bdc, the people who make pistons know and understand this and compensate for the additional volume. All will be well, and if you could run it before it will be just the same compression ratio. Do not forget that math will only get you in a bit of a mess with this, because in truth you will not begin to compress anything until the valves close, and that does NOT happen at BDC. The camshaft in your engine determines when compression begins, and the more agressive the cam grind the later compression begins and thus the lower the actual compression ratio will be. If you do not hammer the engine you can run a hipo cam and 10 1/2 to one pistons on regular gas with no ill effects. When you run at full power things will suffer with low octane gas. Build your engine and enjoy it.

Modern replacement pistons are desighed so that the compression ratio is not changed from stock. An overbore will not change the compression ratio. The milled head will have little effect on the final compression ratio. You have little to worry about. Put it together, drive it and enjoy the feeling!

want to buy a 4300 carb, C8ZC or C8ZD stamped. Goes on 68 302 automatic W/AC. Need not be great as it will be a rebuild core, or will consider a fresh one as well.

My Kar has 3:50 gears and I like all aspects! Plenty of go power yet you can drive on the highway without buzzing the motor. Acceleration at on ramps is perfect, never do you need to downshift and fourth gear in town is just right. I think it is the perfect gear for our motors.

I have purchased these from Tony. He will work with you and can duplicate the inperfectness of the printing used on the originals if you ask him. When I purchased from him, he said that if I was not 100% happy, to send them back and he would do what it took to make it right. I have to hesitation to endorse him. Obviously, the more information you provide the more accurate the document will be!

Detailed images of both of them to < j.w.murphy@comcast.net > please.

Thanks, Scott! I hope that someday Ford will share stuff such as this with the hobby, opening up their files and hearts to those of us who can never seem to get enough information about how it was really done. We love it when you share these facts.

Thank you! All is well now.

Need some help! My ISP has changed and now it seems that I need to change my email address on this site. Just too old and stupid to do it without help. How does one go about this? Thanks in advance.

Some time ago there was mentioned a removeable top for a Mustang conv. - I was unable to post photos on this forum although some of you had contaced me by PM for information. Brant has been kind enough to include information, photos and details of the "Towne Top" removeable hardtop for an early Mustang on the Virginia Mustang blog. If you are interested in obscure accessories for Mustangs you may find this good reading. Thanks again to Brant at Virginia Mustang for providing a means to share information about our favorite car.

The car you guys all gladly provided advice for is on the VA Mustang Blog. I have never been able to figure out how to post pictures on this forum but there is a link to lots of photos of hipo stuff on the blog. Just wanted to say thanks to each and every one of you for the help you provided in this labor of love. Check out under "customers car" in March 08.

I hope that when this merger happened the BEST of the two companies were kept and the poor practices that each of them had were thrown out the window. It would be a hell of a mess if the poor practices of each company were combined - we would never get an acceptable carpet in a million sets. Anyone purchased carpet recently and received a product made by the combined forces of ACC and ACS? I think there may be a date on the box that would indicate manufactured after 9/07 or some indication of the date of manufacture. I am curious to find out how much their product improved. I hope that they now make a great product that fits well, is correct in color and density, wears like iron and is not subject to getting the "frizzies" within a week of installation, and is backed by the best customer service in the industry. Now what happens to all of the existing inventory on vendors shelves?

My spare fits correctly and without a rattle. It fits with no room left, but it will, with a bit of a wiggle when it isinstalled according to the instruction sheet pasted on the deck lid. It will bolt down and all is well, but if it were much larger in diameter it would be a struggle. When putting it in place, shove it to the outside of the car as far as possible so that it touches the inner wheelhouse and the real tail light panel tightly, than hok the "J" bolt to the bracket and tighten the whole works down. Without the jack and jack handle to level the tire it may rattle. Good luck

What sometimes seems the end is really only the beginning. Many of us have had the same experience. Think only of your next job, not the last one.

The folks at the California Special Forum came to my rescue with the Sales Code Number for CANOGA PARK MOTORS. Fred is correct with one of the numbers he provided. The Dealer Sales Code listed on Marti reports for Canoga Park Motors is 71C088 . The 71 indicates the sales district, the number (C088) provided by Fred finishes out the mystery. Hope this tiny bit of info helps someone. Those of you who have your original warranty card can also find this number printer on your temporary card, and I assume on the warranty transfer card as well. Check your card and maybe someone can see a pattern develop for those interested in this. Thanks to everyone for providing the answers.

Just measured the height of a Goodyear 6.95 X 14 with about 10,000 miles on it. Rather difficult to be precise but 25.5 inches plus or minus 1/4 inch is my best effort.

Can anyone provide the dealer sales code for CANOGA PARK MOTORS, 24520 Roscoe Ave., Canoga Park, CA.? Looking for information about this dealership, plate frame, ETC. Thanks

After talking to several of you guys who have "been there and done it" it seems the best option for my need is to have the original frames replated. Thanks to all of you who shared your experience with these stainless frames. Now, can any of you provide the name of a reputable plating company that can deal with chroming a part made of steel that is spot welded to a stainless frame. Looking for someone that does quality work and has a reasonable turn around time. Thanks to each of you who responded on this forum, by private message or by phone with advice and help on this project. Again, you guys are a wealth of information and experience.

Any Mustang parts supplier should stock the factory assembly manual. There are several, each is focused on a certain area such as Engine, interior, and so on. They will be a valuable tool in your restoration.

Do not be alarmed! My toploader is also an HEH-T. The car was built in Detroit on April 22, 1965. And yes, there is no VIN stamped on it nor on the engine block although the casting and assembly dates on the motor and the casting dates on the tranny parts are correct for the build date of the car. I am the third owner, have talked at length with the two previous owners and am certain neither the transmission or engine has ever been replaced. The book you are looking at is in error about the time the HEH-T was used. Also look carefully at the factory assembly manuals and you will find a footnote that indicates that stamping the VIN on the engines and transmissions was an option with the "K" engine, thus all are not stamped. My transmission ID # is 024120, and is stamped on the same tag as the HEH-T identification. Check the casting dates on the external compoments of your transmission and the casting date as well as the assembly date stamped on the driver side of the engine block, sticking out past the front of the left cylinder head. Components with no VIN stamp are more common than most imagine. I beleive that the Dearborn plant was very lax in this operation, not sure of the reason.