Posts by Murf_old

    Kar nut, is there a way to convert this spec to an available paint. Can an ordinary person get any of this paint somewhere? Suppose I were to supply ford Motor company with a widget for use as an engine add on part and had to provide this paint on the part I made? How would I source the paint for the part so I could sell it to Ford? Also, obviously the same question about sourcing paint still go for the paint used in the engine compartment - is there a spec available for this as well? I ask these questions because of being unhappy with the black I have had to use up until now - it has always left something to be desired. Nothing I see looks exactly as Ford did it in the day.

    I am in total agreement with Jeff on the different "shades" of black on engine components. I feel that most being done by restorers have too little gloss, but have never come up with a paint that I felt duplicated ANY of the various brakets and add ons to the engine let alone a specific item. I have a burning interest in what Ford used/specified for the engine compartment during the time the "K" kars were made and I am sure they had a specific color that was used when this area was sprayed, but have never, ever seen that spec in print or been able to duplicate the sheen and texture. Anybody hooked up with Ford on a solid enough basis to find out what was used and where it was sourced?

    Talk about reaching for the moon! Has anyone found the correct Ford paint for the engine compartment or the correct color for any of the black components used in the engine c ompartment - fan, shivs,brackets ect? I know we all have out favorite mixture but do we have a clue as to what Ford used for this? I feel that everything I have used or most of what has been seen leaves something to be desired. Ford obviously had some spec for this paint - is anyone able to come up with that mix? What are your thoughts?

    I have been driving on one that I rebuilt using the Cobra Automotive parts for the last 12 or maybe 15 years with nothing but safe stops. I use DOT 5 brake fluid and change it every two years and have had no trouble with the prop. valve nor the four piston calipers. If you used the correct parts and put them in properly using a non pitted casting there is no reason you should not have years of service. I once tried a Scott Drake kit but it was short an item and one of the "D" rings was the wrong size. When I called them they said I was the only one who had ever had that experience (sound familiar?) and probably didn't kow how to install the parts. I tossed it in the garbage and got one from Cobra that fit, was complete and has given years of service.

    That is strange - I had the very same thing happen to me, only the guy making the offer was a retired Yugo dealer, and he wanted me to pay the sales tax! I passed on his offer because I am in my seventh decade and decided that by the time the Yugo was collectable I would be too old to reap any gain from the deal. Hope we both made the correct decision. Happy April 1st!

    Having been old enough to vote when the Mustangs were introduced maybe this will help get things in an order that is easier to understand. It was second nature for those in that era to operate a manual choke! Everyone, from old timers to school girls knew and understood how to start mechines - mowers, tractors, trucks and yes, even cars - with a "hand" choke as it was called. One learned that routine from childhood. With mostly 6 volt systems on everything we became an expert at "feeling" how to move the choke in relation to what sound was coming from under the hood. You only had a short crank time to get a motor started before the battery went dead! You got good at operating the choke or you had to walk! It was the AUTOMATIC choke that caused so much confusion. That aspect of mechanical progress was the sugject of much discussion, and cussing, by many people who had problems dealing with modern mechanicel marvels. Most needed instructions on how to deal with the new and improved automatic choke and some prayed for a return to the old hand choke equipped cars. I do not remember any "instruction" tag for a hipo car. I do not think there was a need for such a thing. I was working in the automotive trade at that time and can tell you that the problems associated with starting cars on cold Illinois mornings were all happening with automatic choke equipped cars, not with hand choke machines. Just adding this to kind of put things in the perspective of 1964.

    Bo, it warmed up here in illinois today and I had an opportunity to look for the owners manual you need. I have one fifth printing (January 65) BUT it has the warrenty information filled out on the inside of the cover. It is not trash nor is it pristine, just one that was stored in the glovebox of an old car for many years. Tje bad news is that it is not for sale for any price - the good news is that if you can use it it is yours for the asking. The fact that the warenty information is already filled in may kill the deal for you, but if you can use it let me know >j.w.murphy@comcast.net> one way or the other since the PM function on here seems to have some issues.

    The Raylon is quite different than the old 80/20. It looks much the same but I feel it will wear much better. Only time will tell! It does not "fuzz" like the older carpet. Also it is my understanding that when you order the 80/20 you will get the raylon although no mention is made of that in the ACC printed material that I have read. California Mustang has been selling the raylon product for several years and probably has the most history of it durability. When ACC bought out its only competitor they also got the Raylon product and changed to it as soon as they sold their old inventory. I am not sure it will wear as well as the Ford carpet of yesteryear but is in my opinin a step in the right direction. For what it is worth some Corvette parts companies have been selling the Raylon carpets for use in the older Vetts that originally came with the 80/20 and to the best of my knowledge have had few issues thus far. Mid America Corvette has used the Raylon and may give you some insight about how it is "working" for them. The biggest improvement in the ACC carpet is the mass backing (just my opinion of course) due to the way it fits and makes the carpet feel much better than it is.

    This subject has always been interesting to me, and as mentioned in one of the previous posts on this thread, I spent just way too much time researching this subject. The image posted above is obviously a copy of one being sold to the GM guys and is available from many GM parts vendors. It does not represent in any way what was used on a Ford of the era when "K" cars were being produced. I seriously doubt that it is a very accurate copy of what was used on any automotive product of that era. If someone would post an image of a close representation of the logo found on Ford tanks I will send them an image. Also will be glad to share a condensed version of this "branding" as the steel makers call it and a short explaination of what each line on the branding means, if anyone is interested.

    There are at least four different fonts and as many sizes used on the real branding and each has a meaning to those in the steel business or the automobile business. If you are interested and want to post an image that Ford may have actually used email me at <j.w.murphy@comcast.net> and I will send you a good picture to post here. I am just too stupid to figure out how to post images.

    Have one tinted right (passenger-side) tinted glass for a 65 - 66 Mustang. It has the Ford script BUT is dated for 68. Yes, it was a mistake but maybe someone can use it. Would trade for 68 AM-AM radio plus give you some cash, or if youhave a use for it let me know what you have that you are not going to use. Shipping is on you! Thanks.

    I have attempted to figure out that stencil for 30 years. I have seen quite a few in that time and am convinced it is NOT an indicator of the date, or at least in a format that can be understood. As an example I am certain of two shaftw used in October 65 production that both have "4S". Nothing for a Mustang hung around in Fords inventory that long for a Mustang in the fall of 65. Parts were used in production almost as quickly as they were made. Both of these shafts were fromn rust free unmolested California cars and were very readable so there is no mistake as to what alpha numeric symbols were on the shafts. I just cannnot buy into the date format for the suffix on the tubes I have seen.

    It is interesting that in this photo the engines seem to be without exhaust manifolds. Also the oil filters seem to be full sized and have some kind of a sticker or mark on the,, but naybe that something else. Difficult to really see details. Great picture! Any date give when this was taken? Thanks for posting this, Jeff!

    The numbers I quoted are taken from "MUSTANG DOES IT" written by Ray Miller and published in 1978 by Evergreen Press, Oceanside, Ca., ISBN 0-0913056-09-X, Page 314 - 315. Quoted from footnotes at bottom of page 315 "Figures on these pages are from Ford Motor Company and the Shelby-American Automobile Club. The numbers were taken from the tables presented and my post was not a direct quote from the book, but only a summation of the numbers.


    quote from previous post

    "According to accepted figures there were 77,079 produced in 1965. Only 5,776 fastbacks had the "pony" interior and are included in this number. This also includes the 562 fastbacks which became 65 Shelbys."

    According to accepted figures there were 77,079 produced in 1965. Only 5,776 fastbacks had the "pony" interior and are included in this number. This also includes the 562 fastbacks which became 65 Shelbys.

    "Sealed Beam" indicates the type of construction. Meaning the bulb is not replaceable. Tung Sol, Westinghouse? (think I have seen this brand) , and General Electric seem to be the predominate brands who "made for Ford" in that era although there may be others.

    The original headlights used by ford in 64, 65 and 66 were branded in the center. Some had the FORD in the oval "cast" into the glass, and the ones that seem to be more common beginning sometime in late 65 or early 66 had the logo etched in the center of the bulb. The original lights differ from later sealed beams because the vertical lines, or perhaps they are called flutes, are further apart then the later sealed beams. These are the lines that one sees that are vertical on the front of the sealed beams. Also each original sealed beam was stamped with a "made for Ford Motor Company" along with the date on the rear of the bulb, look on the uper portion of the back. This stamping is very delicate and can be removed while cleaning the lights, so be careful and not destroy it if it is still there. There was more than one supply source for the Ford script lights, and the supplier logo is normally found on the lower part of the face or at times stamped in ink on the rear near the date and "made for Ford" printing. Probably have some images of this detail but am too stupid to include them with this post. The repos are very obvious because the fluted lines are much closer together and can be noticed while walking by a car. The reproductions are all of the "etched" variety. I have noticed many original bulbs were made by Tung Sol and GE, there may have been other supply sources as well. It would be interesting to know how many verified sources Ford used.

    Check out the Firestone FR380 tires. Correct size with whitewall and seems to be of average quality. Available at just about any Firestone store. It is the tire I am considering to replace my 22 year old Goodyear 6.95 X 14 whitewalls. P195 / 75 R 14, 55,000 mile tire, lists at 52.99 at the dealer near me. Very difficult to locate a 14 inch whitewall tire.