I have used synthetic oil in my hipo for many years, probably fifteen years with nothing but good luck. used Mobil 1 until the last year or so, now used Shell rotella 10/40 synthetic for trucks. There is some interesting reading on the net about various oils and their use with flat tappet cams. Too long to explain but you might be interested in what has been removed from automotive oil in the past year or two. The HD truck oil still has some chemicals that work well with flat tappets. Just FYI
Posts by Murf_old
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The images you show are strut rods, not tie rods. Yellow marks on side with raised rib are identified in Osborn assembly books.
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Seeing the real battery on Ebay and imagining what kind of money it will bring makes me appreciate the fact that we all enjoy so many reproduction parts. The real battery would be a treasure but the repros at $270.00 to my door are a bargain. The battery arrived today (as promised) and is just exactly what I had in mind. Thanks, Va. Mustang, for making these available to the general car guy.
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Photos sent.
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It works great now. Thanks!
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Ed - If you will send me a PM with your Email addy I will send you an image of the Drake trumpets. I will also send you an image of one of the real things as well. I am unable to post a photo on here, so the best that I can do is send them to you, and you may post the images if you can.
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I have also noticed this for some time now. Thought it was something lacking in my computer or server. Sometimes I just give up looking at anything on this forum, and go on to something else. However, this morning it is working more quickly than I have experienced it in months. Maybe all is once again well. I hope so!
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I have an HT in my Apr. 65 fastback. I am 100% certain it is original to the car although there is and never has been a VIN stamp on it nor the motor (I am also certain it is the original motor). One can only conclude that everything you read is not exactly correct! Ford did some strange things during those hectic days just to keep things moving down the assembly line and did not always follow their plan. Sometimes even the experts are misguided in their frenzy to make everything fit in neat little predictable packages. In the real world we know that all rules have exceptions and with Ford the exception seemed to be the rule.
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Last fall I purchased a pair of trumpets from Scott Drake while in Vegas for the MCA national. One of the guys from Drake put me onto them and they are virtual dead ringers for the NOS trumpets that bring big bucks in NOS form. I was lucky enough to be able to compare the reproductions with several sets of the real items and the reproductions are just wonderful. I have bitched about the reproduction parts available as loud as anyone and probably more often, but this part is dead on as far as I am concerned. Stainless tips, shutters that exactly match the Ford parts, and the mild steel parts that weld to the stainless ends are powdercoated (black). They lack only the Ford part numbers stamped on the parts to be exact. If you want a set that look as if Henry Ford had a hand in making them in the Sprring of 65, these are for you. Retail is $100.00 for the pair and I am sure you will be satisfied if absolute visual correctness if your goal. As far as the rest of the reproduced trumpets I have seen, these are head and shoulders better. I have looked at a lot of these and was ready to bite the bullet and purchase NOS in order to get a pair of tips that looked like they belonged on a Mustang, and was so glad to discover these.
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There is only ONE company making the sealed Autolite reproduction battery. The email I got from Antique Auto Battery said they are of "AGM type only better", and expected to last seven to ten years with proper care. The availability factor is good right now. I ordered one from Virginia Classic Mustang this morning, the sales rep said to expect it to be on my doorstep in about one week. From everything anyone has posted or written to me there seem to be few if any problems with this battery. Thanks to every one for all of the information and comments! The price on these btteries is now $235 retail plus shipping, so be prepared for the increase.
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In response to someones question, Yes, the reproduction batteryes are available and in stock, at least at Restoration Battery (513 - 574 4481) I called them today and the man said they did have them in stock, the price quoted was $240.00 for the sealed battery. Still not sure if there are two different sealed batteries available or if two companies are selling the same battery. Both claim to have the AGM (absorbed glass mat) type, (only better) their words, not mine. Hard to make sense of this. Some responses say that at least one of the batteries contain an Optima, but neither company has mentioned this when I called. I am so curious about all of this. So do the batteries from Antique Auto Battery in Ohio, also dropped shipped from there when you order from Virginia Mustang by the way, contain the Optima battery, or just the ones from Restoration Battery. Hope to get the straight info on this! Newcastle Battery (TurboStart) has gone out of business and their building and products have been taken over by a company called Axiom - I talked to someone there and they are not making the Autolite battery right now. They have applied for the rights to manufacture the Autolite but have not yet been granted the license. Their advice was to check back in about a month or six weeks. AND, YES, the reproductions have the little tab for mounting the battery just as the originals had. At least the ones I have seen had the tab, but darned if I know which company furnished them. Help me get to the bottom of all of this!
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Is there a difference between the battery sold by Antique Battery in Ohio and the battery being sold by Restoration Battery (sorry, i do not know their location)?Price seems to be the same, does construction differ?
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Looking for advice on purchase of an autolite reproduction battery. Only the sealed type is under consideration. Where did you get yours and would you do it again? Restoration Battery and Antique Auto Battery seem to be the two companies that are now making this product, looking for an endorsement on either clmpany.
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Thanks, Ed: Information on the (T) New jersey cars must be exceptionally scarce. I hoped that someone would post an image of a (T) radiator support, as well as some photos of an early Mustang equipped with the square topped "desert cooler" that showed up for a while. Now that the weather has started to become decent others may dig through their stash of used parts and share what they discovers with us.
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The square tabs soldered to the top tank were found on Mustangs built in Dearborn during the 65 - 66 era. They have an engineering number (C4ZE 8005) and a date code stamped on the flange of the left support near the voltage regulator area. The ones with the rounded tags were used in production in San Jose, and the date along with the engineering numbers will be reverse stamped into the top tank. Some radiators will have a small rectangular tag soldered to them showing the engineering number rather than a reverse stamping in the tank. The type of radiator used in the New Jersey plant at this point remains uncertain until someone posts some images and information showing what was the original issue. All information so far points to the fact that the Dearborn type of radiator also was used in the "T" assembly plant. I hope that someone will chime in on this discussion with some images and help out in this search. Someone must have restored an early (65 - 66) Mustang that was built on the East coast.
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While on the subject of radiators in the 65 - 66 Mustangs, let's explore what was used in the cars produced in New Jersey. Can anyone provide an image or information about the details on these radiators. What did they look like? Was the top tank the same as used in the Dearborn production vehicles or did the "T" cars use the radiator that we typically find in the San Jose cars? OR, did they in fact use another type altogether? How were they identified by engineering number? Cars built on the east coast are pretty scarce here in the Midwest so we need some help from those of you whose car has a VIN with the second character a "T"! Remember, only original radiators can help in this search.
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I just checked some photos of an unrestored - really untouched is a better term - 65 with a scheduled build date of June 18 (18T). It has the little edge indentation for the deluxe trim on the disc brake pad but the car had only a standard interior. so it would appear that by late June they were using some, if not all of the later design disc brake pedal pads. This disc brake pad was on an automatic transmission car so just use this as informational material. Just FYI
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OK, everybody seems up to speed on the C4ZE 8005 stamped on the Dearborn radiator left side support. We now know that the date code stamped on that support reads as follows: 5CE would be: 5=year(1965) C= month (March) E= Week of production (fifth week). so most of the stamping is understood. but the two characters stamped between the C4ZE 8005 and the date code still remain a mystery. A typical stamped suport would read "DEP C4ZE 8005 Y1 5CE" So can anyone fill in the meaning of the "DEP"? All radiators seem to have these same letters stamped on them. Then the real unknown is the "Y1" stamping. I have supports stamped Y1,Z1,M1. Others have noted they have G1 and G2. Can any of you offer a suggestion as to what these two characters in the stamp indicate? I once thought maybe either automatic transmission or standard shift but can see no pattern in the stampings. Once again, HELP! I encourage you to look at any original radiators you have in your car or in your spare parts accumulation and help all of understand this little bit of Mustang identification.
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Ivy Green and White seat covers for 65 - 66 pony interior. TMI brand, installed and carefully removed. This is brand new, only the drivers seat has even been sat on, the only then to load and unload at Birmingham. Did not like the color, the quality is as new. Best offer.
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Checked mine, (April 65 dearborn car) and they are simply stamped G2 on each manifold, along with the engineering numbers. This information may muddy the water a little. Will provide an image to you if you like, unable to post here but can email if you send your addy.