Posts by Joe6pack_old

Thanks. I just dropped the driveshaft off at a machine shop/parts store. They are ordering a new spider, but I suspect that it will be wrong. Any help you could give would be appreciated.

Here are a few pics. This car is for sale in the for sale section.

[Blocked Image: http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/314/314472/folders/265550/2113083A,DA289.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/314/314472/folders/265554/2113088A,DA293.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/314/314472/folders/265554/2113095A,DA300.jpg]

I guess specifically, I am asking about the spider. Is it the same as a regular mustang. The MU catalog only lists two types for 65-66: inside snap and outside snap.

Couple of U-joint questions. Are hipo u-joints and regular V-8 u-joints the same? Specifically, I am concerned with the rear u-joint. Do most parts houses (Advance, Autozone, etc.) carry the correct u-joint?

Next question. Can the lever be removed and replaced without un-crimping the pump? Adding the dimple should be fairly simple. This appears to be a simple sheet metal part. Its not a castpart. The turn downs (ribs, gussetts or whatever you want to call them) carry the load. Is the dimple on a true hipo pump lever visible from the top? Does it look like it was put in using a tool and die and a press? If this is the case, it may be possilbe to modify a pump without disassembly.

After reading the posts and looking at the pictures, it seems that there were a couple of versions of the spring mechanism. Ralphs early pump seems to have some sort of adapter to allow for the second spring. Later pumps have the dimple integrated directly into the arm. This was probably a cost savings measure. It would certainly not be difficult to modify a standard pump arm to allow for the second spring.

Now, here's the hard part. How do you take apart and re-assemble a crimp together pump?

So, the only difference is the spring and the lever (with the dimple). Seems to me that adding a dimple to a lever wouldn't be that difficult. Then its just a matter of sourcing springs. If I had the specs, I could even have the springs reproduced. Were the body castings different from regular mustangs? I just looked at a 4193 pump I have in the garage. It has a dimple cast onto the body for a spring, but not on the lever.

I realize that this would also require re-numbering the donor pumps with the correct markings, but I suspect there is a way to do that as well. No one is going to tool up for a new casting. There isn't enough volume for that.

It is with regret that I have decided to sell my '66 K GT Fastback. This is a restored car and is priced as such. This car has its original numbers matching (vin on the block and the toploader) drivetrain. The door tag reads as follows:

VIN: 6F09K161501

Body: 63B 2+2 Fastback, Pony Interior

Color: R Ivy Green Metallic

Trim: 66 Black Crinkle Vinyl, Pony Interior

Date: 15L November 15, 1965

DSO: 33 Detroit

Axle: E 3.50:1, Limited Slip

Trans.: 5 4-Speed Manual

The car was originally purchased by Harvey W. Dewey from Marine Motor Sales in Marine City, Michigan.

This car was loaded and has among other things:

8000 RPM rally pack

Deluxe seatbelts/seatbelt warning light

AM/8-track stereo

Console

Remote mirror

In addition, the car has 4 vintage Koni shocks. I had the fronts rebuilt by Koni North America to the tune of about $300. The rears were fine.

Paint

The car was repainted about year ago in its original color. It isn't 100% perfect, but it is darn good.

Body

This was originally a northern car. The floors and trunk have been replaced. They were done very well by a local shop and I have extensive pics of the work. The driver's door was replaced with a reproduction as was the driver's front fender. The door had been previously repaired with fiberglass and was not salvageable. In retrospect, I wish I had not done this and had sought an original door. The fender was replaced without my permission, oh well. Both the front and rear valences were replaced due to dents, etc. Otherwise it retains its original panels. The only collision evidence was in the passenger rear quarter. It had been previously repaired with bondo. The shop was able to pull out the dent and skim it. From within the trunk, there is now no evidence of a collison.

Engine

The car is an original 70,000 mile car. The engine was rebuilt at about the same time as the paint. Three of the pistons had skirt cracks so I replaced all of the pistons with new sealed power pistons. The originals come with the car. The cam was changed to one of Marv's along with new lifters. The original cam and lifters also come with the car. The block was honed, but not bored. It is stock bore. The radiator is new. The alternator is new. The fuel pump is a vintage CARbureTER Carter, but it is not a hipo. Everything else is original including the carb. I even have the carb tag and engine tag.

Interior

The interior is original except for the headliner and carpet. The driver's seat has a tear along the seam between the bottom pad the lower bolster. The upper bolster has a tear in the material like someone sat down with a screwdriver. The passenger seat and back seat are original and look great. The dash pad has a crack. I just haven't gotten around to getting these items fixed because I really don't want want to use repop parts. These are easy fixes, I just hate to mess with originality. I had always hoped to take the car to an uphostery shop to see if it could be repaired. Looks like I am out of time.

Wheels/Tires

The wheels are the original SS wheels of which I have five. The tires are brand new BFG T/As. In the trunk is the original spare on its original SS wheel.

Suspension

Original except for the aforementioned Konis and new rear springs. I supsect the car may have had the Shelby drop done to it. I suspect this for two reasons. One, in the papers I received with the car was a copy of the template. Secondly, the car has a rather raked look. If it has been dropped, the holes were plugged and cannot be seen.

Exhaust

New from Kar Mustang to original specs.

I know this car inside and out. It is well sorted mechanically and the body is great. The only area needing attention is the interior as previously mentioned. I have a lot of documentation including the original owners manual with the original owner's name, the High-Performance Equipment supplement and the manual for the Konis. I also have other documentation going back to the seventies. I have receipts for all of the work I have performed. I also have extensive pics of the restoration work including the body, the engine rebuild, etc. The car also comes with six trophies won in various Shelby and Mustang events in the early eighties in Texas and Louisiana.

Why am I selling? Family life has gotten too hectic. With a 5 year old, a 3 year old and a 1 year old, I can't give the car the time it deserves.

I am looking for offers in the mid-forties. Serious offers of course. I would be happy to answer any question you may have either here or by phone or email. I can also email pics to those interested. I don't have any good pics of the car as it sits now, but I will be taking those later in the week. The car is located in Braselton, GA. Inspections are welcomed.

John Ray

rayrealty@bellsouth.net

(404) 397-6289

Here is a link to a website I created awhile back documenting some of the restoration. I have tons more pics. Look in the photo albums section for the latest and greatest. Comments and questions are welcome.

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-johnray

Edited by - Joe6pack on 03/03/2007 21:14:50

Edited by - Joe6pack on 03/03/2007 21:27:34

Is there a way to get more info. from the registry than what is published in the book. For instance, I know my car was actually put into the registry by someone else when the car was in Illinois. I bought the car out of Texas, so I know it moved a couple of times. Is there any way I can find out who put the car into the registry and when they did it? Also, does the registry have any more information besides what is in the Fourth Edition (i.e. options, factory GT, etc.)? Thanks.

I'm being lazy, so forgive me. My '66 K has a button top fuel pump that for all intents and purposes looks just like a correct fuel pump, but its not. As a mechanical engineer, I wonder what it would take to "transform" a standard button top pump into a true K-code pump. I know the '65s are different and since I don't own a '65 pump nor have I actually held one in my hands could someone summarize those differences for me as well. I'd be willing to give it a go if for no other reason than the fun of trying. It seems to me that this can't really be that difficult. Maybe I'm just being naive.

Anyone watch last nights episode of American Muscle Car? The theme was high powered small blocks and the K-code was one of the cars they featured. I was at the gym, so I couldn't hear the sound. However, I noticed that when they did the summary that they stated that the carb was a 480 CFM or thereabouts. I think these shows are produced in conjunction with Year One and they have the same mis-information in their Mustang catalog. I actually pointed it out to the counter guy one time when I was in Year One's showroom.

They showed a '65 or '66 K-code in the piece. I think it was a convertible, but I can't really remember. Anyone know this car and who owns? I assume it is a local Atlanta car since the show is filmed in the North Atlanta area and most of the cars and owners are local.

Thanks for the tips. I really don't want to have the balancer rebuilt only to find out it wasn't really the problem. So, has anyone had this kind of vibration and solved the problem? The vibration is most noticeable/visible in the steering wheel. The engine doesn't visibly vibrate (weird). Could be the greater mass. The motor mounts and transmission mount are new. It used to be worse, but I changed the transmission mount (stock) and that seemed to improve it. The vibration seems to go away off idle, but it could just be less resonant at higher rpms. Could timing (too much) cause a vibration? Any other suggestions would be appreciated?

I have had a slight vibration at idle since I rebuilt my 289 hipo. Well, I finally took it to a well respected mechanic to fix a pesky oil leak. He noticed the vibration and offered to help with it. Well, he called me today to say that he suspected the balancer. He suggested I replace it with one of the newer fluid filled models. I explained to him that the balancer is one of the more noticeable and important features of a K-code. With that said, how can I tell if it is in fact the balancer. I know that they can slip. Is the keyway aligned with top dead center as marked on the balancer. If so, shouldn't I be able to tell if it has slipped by looking at the markings on the outside of the balancer relative to the keyway. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Bill, I haven't heard about them. Please tell me more.

Thanks, Gary

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

I'm no expert on these, but I have been following the threads on other forums about them. They are basically going to attempt to reproduce a complete '67 shell. The idea was probably to capitalize on the Elenor(sp)/Shelby craze. Now that prices have softened, I kind of wonder if it will ever happen. To build a complete car using aftermarket parts is extremely expensive. Not to mention the obvious VIN issues. They did it for the Camaro, but I'm not sure how well they are selling. Also, the Camaro is a body on frame design which was probably easier to produce. Check out the Vintage Mustang and do a search. You will find plenty of info.

Hey Bryan - You aren't too far from me. I'm in Braselton. Where is your shop located and what is the name?

I'll chime in. In the simplest sense, I think matching numbers means that body has its original block and tranny housing. Everything else can be sourced. While the body condition is important, that too can be changed/corrected. But, once that original block and tranny case are gone, the car is no longer numbers matching. Ultimately, as has been alluded to, the marketplace decides what is numbers matching and what is worth a premium.

My car is numbers matching (by my definition), but has had a couple of panel changes and some rust repair. I don't think these changes detract from value as significantly as a missing motor or tranny or body vins would.

However, I will say that if someone goes through the trouble of re-creating a car with all of the "correct" parts and does an excellent job, then there is no reasong that the car shouldn't approach the value of an equivalent numbers matching car. This is assuming that the body is an original K body and can be verified.

Hi Ralph - Just how rough are those wheels and what would you want for them. I am re-doing my wife's convertible and I really don't care for the torque thrusts that are currently on it.

I don't think all convertibles came with the extra bracing. Early 'verts don't have it. My '65 A-code is a transition car and it didn't have it. My understanding is that it was introduced sometime after the 64 1/2 - 65 transition due to customer complaints. Hope this helps.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Its my understanding that the a worker would stamp the engine and trans ( if required) at the engine and trans substation) before the subassembly was sent to the line to meet with the car. Different stamps and person than the ones doing the body.

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

This is good to know. My '66 Dearborn K has matching VINs everywhere except the 4th digit on the engine and transmission are for a convertible, but the car is a fastback. This seems to indicate that the drivetrain was originally slated for a convertible and at some point in production it was switched to a fastback. Either that, or the engine stamper maded a mistake. I hope this doesn't cause me problems in the future as it is a very original K-code GT.

Hi Gary - I was sort of in the same boat as you, but I didn't seek advice. I wish I had.

If the interior is in good shape, I would leave it alone or only replace the parts I had too. Reproduction materials are obvious. I love the fact that my interior is mostly original despite the blemishes.

I personally would leave the engine alone. I rebuilt mine, but in retrospect, I wish I hadn't. The car only had 69,000 original miles and the engine ran great. K engines were built for robustness from the factory, so you should be in good shape. You may, as was my case, have a couple of cracked piston skirts. This is pretty common on original pistons, but I wouldn't worry about it.

As far as undercoating goes, it depends on what you want to do. Cars without undercoating definitely look better and cleaner. It can be alot of work to remove the undercoating, so for a driver, I wouldn't worry about it. Just touch it up and go.

I hope this helps.