Posts by pbuxton_old

    For Sale 1966 Hipo Mustang Fastback - $26,000/negotiable. Car is in Colorado. Door tag reads: 6R09Kxxxxxx, 63A R 26 02C 71 E 6.

    Forest Green, black interior. New paint in 2004. The car is nicknamed ‘Bullitt’ because of its’ similarity to the 68 Mustang in the movie ‘Bullitt’; Steve Mcqueen. Very clean car, rebuilt in ’04-‘05. Speedometer shows 77,000. However the car has only gone 3000 miles in the last 5 years, since the restoration. It has the original Am/8track. It also now has a wood grain steering wheel.

    The car intentially has no exterior chrome emblems nor trim. It does have a bullet shaped mirror, bullet style center wheel caps, and a ‘Bullitt’ badge on the rear panel just right of the gas filler cap.


    Where to start?? No drips, leaks, rust. It’s basically a ‘new’ 44 year old car.

    Has a 66 K code motor, but not a numbers matching. It has the correct Autolite 4100 carb I bought from Pony Carbs a few years ago. Everything else on/in the motor is K code, down to the correct fan and a Rotunda oil filter.

    New exhaust system front to back, with exhaust dumps just before rear axle.

    The car tag is an automatic, but I have put a 4 speed toploader in it. It has a Hurst 4 speed shifter The total under carriage has been cleaned and looks fresh. All new front suspension control arms, perches, rubber, coil springs,etc. New rear leaf springs.

    9” inch rear end with 3.50 gears. Freshly painted axle and fuel tank… again looks basically new underneath. All new seals and bearings and brakes pads, rebuilt calipers, black shocks, etc.

    Wheels are original 1966 14” Torque Thrust D’s. They aren’t the modern style, they are from 1966 – have been cleaned, polished, and painted. Dunlop tires have only about 3000 miles on them.

    In the interior, the headliner, the dashboard, and the rear upholstery are all original, with no tears, rips, or cracks. The front seats have new foam and upholstery. New carpet of course and new underlayment. New door panels, new chrome trim throughout including all the chrome trim around the rear fold down seat. New interior rear quarter panels too. Oh, and the entire car has been rewired, including the main harness behind the dashboard. All new brakes lines and fuel line and emergency brake lines throughout. No backup lamps and no bumper extension chrome pieces, but I do have the originals of these in a box in the garage.

    What will it take to get more original? Correct 4 speed shifter, (but really the correct C4) )… it would need the correct brake proportioning valve which I have and needs to be refurbished… it presently has a Jegs P-valve on it. It would need to have all the exterior holes drilled for emblems and badges – I chose not to put these on as I wanted a clean line. My email is prbuxt@netzero.com, my name is Pat. Email for more pics.


    http://i41.tinypic.com/334p2d2.jpg

    http://i39.tinypic.com/2eq5653.jpg

    http://i42.tinypic.com/aaub2t.jpg

    http://i43.tinypic.com/2s9oe0w.jpg

    For Sale 1966 Hipo Mustang Fastback - $28,500/negotiable. Car is in Colorado. Door tag reads: 6R09Kxxxxxx, 63A R 26 02C 71 E 6.

    Forest Green, black interior. New paint in 2004. The car is nicknamed ‘Bullitt’ because of its’ similarity to the 68 Mustang in the movie ‘Bullitt’; Steve Mcqueen. Very clean car, rebuilt in ’04-‘05. Speedometer shows 76,000, but it is probably really 176,000. However the car has only gone 2000 miles in the last 4 years, since the restoration. It has the original Am/8track – not sure if it works as I’ve never wired it in. I’ll bet it will need rebuilding though.

    The car has no exterior chrome emblems nor trim, has a bullet shaped mirror, bullet style center wheel caps, and a ‘Bullitt’ badge on the rear panel just right of the gas filler cap.

    Where to start?? No drips, leaks, rust. It’s basically a ‘new’ 43 year old car.

    Has a 66 K code motor, but not a numbers matching. But still it is a K code motor with the correct Autolite 4100 carb I bought from Pony Carbs a few years ago. Everything else on/in the motor is K code, down to the correct fan and a Rotunda oil filter.

    New exhaust system front to back, with exhaust dumps just before rear axle. I do have the full exhaustsystem to go over the rear axle and exit under the rear valance.

    The car tag is an automatic, but I have put a 4 speed toploader in it. It has a Hurst 4 speed shifter. I do have an extra C4 with torque converter in the garage, but I think it is a ’68. The total under carriage has been cleaned and looks fresh. All new front suspension control arms, perches, rubber, coil springs,etc. New rear leaf springs.

    9” inch rear end with 3.50 gears. Freshly painted axle and fuel tank… again looks basically new underneath. All new seals and bearings and brakes pads, rebuilt calipers, black shocks, etc.

    Wheels are original 1966 14” Torque Thrust D’s. They aren’t the modern style, they are from 1966 – have been cleaned, polished, and painted. Dunlop tires have only about 2000 miles on them.

    In the interior, the headliner, the dashboard, and the rear upholstery are all original, with no tears, rips, or cracks. The front seats have new foam and upholstery. New carpet of course and new underlayment. New door panels, new chrome trim throughout including all the chrome trim around the rear fold down seat. New interior rear quarter panels too. Oh, and the entire car has been rewired, including the main harness behind the dashboard. All new brakes lines and fuel line and emergency brake lines throughout. No backup lamps and no bumper extension chrome pieces, but I do have the originals of these in a box in the garage.

    What will it take to get more original? Correct 4 speed shifter, (but really the correct C4) correct firewall braces to the shock towers (which I have, they just need welding on)… it would need the correct brake proportioning valve which I have and needs to be refurbished… it presently has a Jegs P-valve on it. It would need to have all the exterior holes drilled for emblems and badges – I chose not to put these on as I wanted a clean line. I have the horse emblem for the center of the front grille, just not on the car right now. My email is prbuxt@netzero.com, my name is Pat. Email for more pics.

    [Blocked Image: http://i40.tinypic.com/9jdv0h.jpg]

    http://i41.tinypic.com/334p2d2.jpg

    http://i39.tinypic.com/2eq5653.jpg

    http://i42.tinypic.com/aaub2t.jpg

    http://i43.tinypic.com/2s9oe0w.jpg


    Edited by - pbuxton on 05/21/2009 10:24:21


    Edited by - pbuxton on 05/21/2009 10:27:13


    Edited by - pbuxton on 05/21/2009 10:37:30


    Edited by - pbuxton on 05/22/2009 10:34:21


    Edited by - pbuxton on 05/22/2009 10:36:05


    Edited by - pbuxton on 05/24/2009 08:26:54


    Edited by - pbuxton on 06/09/2009 09:17:03

    all good suggestions, will do a down (ground) to earth check the next few days... car is all new, maybe not getting a good ground due to repainting everything.... need to scratch it up a bit. btw, it's not just the headlights, it's the interior lights doing it at the same time as the headlights, (in harmony) and I bet if the radio worked and I turned it on, the volume would be going up and down too.

    I know the ground behind the dash you are talking about, I'll pop the cluster to ensure it is secured, and check all other ground points per our friend from Australia. btw, I have already replaced the voltage regulator and light switch, (after fully charging the new battery, and testing the alternator) with good parts from another project car, so haven't incurred an expense yet.

    any other suggestions?, have replaced the voltage regular, same problem, will replace light switch next....fortunately I have extra parts from other mustangs and it hasn't cost me a penny yet (just my time) to test the alternator, battery, voltage regulator. ..

    thanks for the info, now that I have my High Po Mustang third edition in my lap, I didn't really need to post the question as the answer is in black and white right there. the 4 blade I have isn't a HIPO by no means... nor will I be shelling out the prices I've seen for those selling them as I have other things to spend my money on,....thanks again...

    what makes the headlights and dashboard lights surge, as if someone had a dimmer switch on the lighting system and was making the lights go bright and then dim and then bright and them dim and .... rapidly..but not all the way bright and then dim,...just a bit, but very noticeable? just had the alternator tested, it is fine. it's a '66 hipo.. Thanks.