Posts by 65Rangoon_old

Wow! Sad, very sad. [Blocked Image: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid157/p4f8ee1bd214d6f407a7e7df72a842ee9/f5253efc.jpg]

Rust-Oleum has a satin black, product # 7777 which seems an excellent match to the factorys' black. I'm using it on a mach-1 I'm currenty working. Worth a look-see I believe.

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Get out the wrenches. The self/auto adjustment feature is limited to the brakes only.

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Damn, you found me out. And I thought I was pretty much under the radar with my effort.

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The single exhaust pipe chrome extension and missing door latch screw just below the data plate are sporty touches.

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Yep, I got it also. Thanks for terminating that turkey!

Quote from Rick67

Did all '67 289 HiPOs come with power brakes?

As I recall, all '67 K kars were either GT or GTA equipped. So yes, all did have pwr disk/drum brakes.

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Welcome to the forum Jim. Your 'basic K' sounds pretty special to me. Ditto on the 'show me the pictures' request.

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I used Gary the Tachman (http://www.tachman.com) to do the tach on my unit. First rate and timely. Don't know if he does clocks, but I expect he could recommend someone.

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Quote from b9folk

You know, one thing that I never see mentioned about factory GT fastbacks is that they would not have holes in the rocker panels for the moulding clips, since only non-GT fastbacks have that moulding. If a dealer or individual had made a car into a GT, then those holes would have to be filled which would leave some evidence. Since "nobody" would replace both rocker panels to get rid of those holes, this should be a simple way to figure out if a shell like this one is an authentic GT. Right? Or am I delusional?

Lyle

That sounds like a possibility. I think 65Hipo's non GT car came from the factory sans rocker panel trim (i.e. no telltale holes), whereas mine has the trim. As I recall his car has a Aug/Sep 1964 build date, several months before the GT's introduction.

Perhaps the moldings were a deletable item throughout the production run. Then any non GT K F/B, also ordered without rocker moldings post the GT intro time frame, would be a candidate for someone to dummy it as a GT, and get away with the ruse to the unsuspection buyer.

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I've never seen any piece parts like that available for the booster at a local parts store. Perhaps an actual rebuilder could supply one. Come to think of it, I've been able to buy odd/unique individual brake system hardware from Stainless Steel Brake. It's worth a call/message.

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Not only is the hold-down bolt longer (5/16 dia?), the retainer plate that indexes to the wheel hub is smaller in diameter than the one used for the stock steel wheel.

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What is the condition of your stock shifter? I had a similar problem when down shifting to 2nd. I replaced all the bits and pieces that are prone to wear, and verified the shifter rod ends and arms were not sloppy. Had little if any improvement. I'm guessing there is wear within the shifter housing and components that is not noticeable doing a visual on the mechanisim (who or what wouldn't be worn after 40 + years of use). Changed over to a Hurst shifter and the problem went away.

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Quote from 66gtk

"torque to spec" - Anybody got the reference on the spec for our beloved Ks?

That would be 70 to 90 ft lbs.

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Welcome aboard Rick. That certainly is an interesting marking in the trunk. I've never seen anything similar.

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To break a bolt that size must mean the term 'frozen' has taken on a new dimension.

Me thinks I'd entertain drilling it to accept a large easy-out. But I'd heat the bolt stub cheery red before trying to do the easy-out trick.

I'm not to sure a hole in the frame would give that much clear access to deal with it. But if you use the blue flame wrench to preheat, and huge visegrips to twist the bolt, that might work. And, I'd 'tighten' the bolt rather than try to back it out (fewer threads to deal with).

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That buy it now price deserves a comment, but I don't want to turn our forum totally 'blue'!

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I've run into the same thing. Generally I just go to a different gear then come back to reverse and it will go in without any more hassel. My Corvette does the same thing and it's a 2004. I wouldn't consider either car to have a problem.

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Quote from SPECIAL ED

Is there a way to tell if you have the original factory coil? Ed

The only way I know to ID an original yellow top is from its apperance. I've three of them and the yellow top on all are very scuzzy looking e.g. small chip-outs, minute surface cracking, imbedded dirt etc. A little lacquer thinner or that purple stuff I bought at Wal-Mart seems to clean the yellow part up reasonably well, but there is no mistaking their age. Still, I'd rather have that, as apposed to displaying a generic black top item.

I've stuck with the stock dual point system since the car hit the road in early 2000. Typically I'll verify their gap during the annual valve adjust. Currently have 16k + miles on the car including the 2,100 round trip to Nashville in 2004 with Gerald (65Hipo). Got just over 16MPG on the trip with a 3.00 pumpkin. Have nothing against the Petronix, but just can't see shucking out 65 bucks to replace a system that is working just fine. However, I will admit to carrying a loaded dual breaker spare - just in case.[Blocked Image: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid157/p4f8ee1bd214d6f407a7e7df72a842ee9/f5253efc.jpg]