Posts by 65Rangoon_old
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Before the change over which IIRC was Sep 64, all 289's were 5 bolt blocks.
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I never seen one piece fender ornaments. Looking closely at the pix in this thread, those samples appear to be two piece as well, but ya gotta study closely to make that detail out.
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Engine color from 66 on, is dark Ford Corporate Blue.
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The data tag on my carb is: C5OF J A 5CE. Hope this helps with your project.
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I'm running Falken 225-50/15 front and 225-60/15 rear.
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I run the 3 chamber Flow Masters, 50 series if I recall. Never compared them to the 2 chamber variety, but I don't consider them loud (a very subjective area) and I don't seem to suffer from any serious harmonic issues either.
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Quote from 66kcode
Does anyone have the paint code for caspian blue in the newer enamel paint. I have the lacquer ppg code, but I want to paint in enamel.
Hit your local paint supplier for the info. I paint with an RM product line paint called LIMCO, a single stage acrylic enamel. The supplier here in Austin has always been able to provide early Mustang mixes/codes for me e.g. Rangoon Red, Nightmist Blue, Indian Fire Red etc., based on Ford's data plate info which for Caspian Blue is 'H', DuPont code 4289. It's worth a try at least.
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Quote from wlewis
Acording to Tony's book, my 65 should have a HEH-BX TopLoader, whereas my tag shows a HEH-P, 020021. What does that mean?
Walter
According to my interchange manual that tranny was used during Aug 20 1964 and Dec 30 1964 on 260 or 289 (non Hipo) equipped Mustangs. The HEH-BX was used on 65-67 Hipo Mustangs and also 67 Cougars w/the 289ci 271HP engine.
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What I've done in the past is applied phosphoric acid to those surface rust areas. It does a good job removing light rust. Keep it wet however until your happy with the result. Once done, you can either let it dry, or clear water rinse it away.
Letting it dry leaves a crust (paintable but ugly) so I've always done the rinse, followed by force air drying the cleaned areas, followed by Rust-Oleum red oxide primer for rusty metal. My technique with the primer has been to pour it inside the door then rotate the door 360 degrees to allow the primer to migrate into all the door pinch weld areas. I also brush primer on to the exterior portions of the pinch welds, the idea being to let it ooze into the pinch welds to maximize penetration, then wipe off the excess.
It's a PITA procedure but I think a very effective. I would also recommend thinning the primer to get the best flow into those tight areas.
Heavily rusted areas can be treated with muriatic acid followed by the water rinse, force drying, and finally the phosphoric acid treatment descibed above. Muriatic acid is toxic to say the least, so ventilation and a huge amount of caution in its handling are a must!
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Has anyone out there in Hipo land seen or bought the CJ Pony repop item they offer for near 300 bucks? They claim it took 2 yrs to get it right. Never having seen the genuine article myself (I've a C8xxx service item on my engine), I can't tell if their offering is truly accurate in texture, marking, and appearance to the geenie item. I do notice the rear edge is chamfered however.
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Some had draft tubes. Case in point is 65Hipo's car.
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I'm still trying to convince my head to accept that show. It has the wackiest format of anything I've seen before. Especially so, when as you point out, the three of them are engaged in their seemingly nonsensical racing from start point A to finish point B. Duh!
Still, they do seem to be brutally candid about their likes and dislikes (e.g. the negative bit on the F150 pickups' quality control a couple of weeks back), and I admire that.
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A big welcome to the forum from Texas. Your right about the avialability of info and expertise here. Hope your new ride arrives safe & sound.
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I'm a member (65Rangoon). Thanks for the rapid response Steve.
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Quote from Bramick
My question is how do I tell if it's a 8" or 9".
Look at the two bottom most nuts that hold the pumpkin to the housing. If it's a 9", those two nuts are not accessible with a ratchet/socket setup, but can only be loosened/removed with a box or open-end wrench or possibly a crows foot.
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Quote from wlewis
Thanks Charlie, but I believe Accumatch is a lacquer and it won't work over enamel. I wish I had used a lacquer earlier.
Yep it does call out lacquer on the can. But, I've been using it on the interior parts (both fiber glass and metal), of the mach 1 I'm restoring, and for primer I've used Rust-Oleum rattle can gray automotive paint. Can't find a specific call-out on the can as to it being lacquer or enamel but for clean up it does recommend mineral spirits. That suggests enamel and it smells so as well. In any event I didn't eperience any lifting or crazing when I sprayed the Accumatch color coat on.
You might want to consider experimenting a little.
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I've used rattle cans from accumatch products in several cars (http://www.accumatchproducts.com) with excellent results. Color match was spot on I thought, but, I am color deficient (I see but 3 numbers total in the color vision flip charts). Paint flow-out was also excellent and has just the right semi gloss appearance.
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I favor the board with the technical data at the bottom. If the upper portion was solid blue I think it would emphasize the car better than the cloudy background.
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