Posts by 65Rangoon_old

65Rangoon_old · 64 hipo 65Rangoon_old March 4, 2009 at 9:33 AM

Sounds right to me.

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65Rangoon_old · Early hipo 5 bolt 65Rangoon_old March 3, 2009 at 6:16 PM

Before the change over which IIRC was Sep 64, all 289's were 5 bolt blocks.

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65Rangoon_old · Used Pair HiPo Fender Ornaments 65Rangoon_old February 26, 2009 at 6:52 PM

I never seen one piece fender ornaments. Looking closely at the pix in this thread, those samples appear to be two piece as well, but ya gotta study closely to make that detail out.

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65Rangoon_old · 67 K Engine Paint color 65Rangoon_old February 25, 2009 at 7:21 PM

Engine color from 66 on, is dark Ford Corporate Blue.

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65Rangoon_old · Hi-po carb tag numbers 65Rangoon_old February 18, 2009 at 6:13 PM

The data tag on my carb is: C5OF J A 5CE. Hope this helps with your project.

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65Rangoon_old · Tire Size 65Rangoon_old February 12, 2009 at 9:47 AM

I'm running Falken 225-50/15 front and 225-60/15 rear.

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65Rangoon_old · loud muffler solution 65Rangoon_old February 1, 2009 at 8:32 AM

I run the 3 chamber Flow Masters, 50 series if I recall. Never compared them to the 2 chamber variety, but I don't consider them loud (a very subjective area) and I don't seem to suffer from any serious harmonic issues either.

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65Rangoon_old · caspian blue paint 65Rangoon_old January 31, 2009 at 10:54 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Does anyone have the paint code for caspian blue in the newer enamel paint. I have the lacquer ppg code, but I want to paint in enamel.

Hit your local paint supplier for the info. I paint with an RM product line paint called LIMCO, a single stage acrylic enamel. The supplier here in Austin has always been able to provide early Mustang mixes/codes for me e.g. Rangoon Red, Nightmist Blue, Indian Fire Red etc., based on Ford's data plate info which for Caspian Blue is 'H', DuPont code 4289. It's worth a try at least.

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65Rangoon_old · TopLoader Tag info 65Rangoon_old January 29, 2009 at 6:30 PM

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Acording to Tony's book, my 65 should have a HEH-BX TopLoader, whereas my tag shows a HEH-P, 020021. What does that mean?

Walter

According to my interchange manual that tranny was used during Aug 20 1964 and Dec 30 1964 on 260 or 289 (non Hipo) equipped Mustangs. The HEH-BX was used on 65-67 Hipo Mustangs and also 67 Cougars w/the 289ci 271HP engine.

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Edited by - 65Rangoon on 01/29/2009 18:37:11

65Rangoon_old · another rust question 65Rangoon_old January 14, 2009 at 10:30 AM

What I've done in the past is applied phosphoric acid to those surface rust areas. It does a good job removing light rust. Keep it wet however until your happy with the result. Once done, you can either let it dry, or clear water rinse it away.

Letting it dry leaves a crust (paintable but ugly) so I've always done the rinse, followed by force air drying the cleaned areas, followed by Rust-Oleum red oxide primer for rusty metal. My technique with the primer has been to pour it inside the door then rotate the door 360 degrees to allow the primer to migrate into all the door pinch weld areas. I also brush primer on to the exterior portions of the pinch welds, the idea being to let it ooze into the pinch welds to maximize penetration, then wipe off the excess.

It's a PITA procedure but I think a very effective. I would also recommend thinning the primer to get the best flow into those tight areas.

Heavily rusted areas can be treated with muriatic acid followed by the water rinse, force drying, and finally the phosphoric acid treatment descibed above. Muriatic acid is toxic to say the least, so ventilation and a huge amount of caution in its handling are a must!

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65Rangoon_old · Repop Vibe Dampner 65Rangoon_old January 14, 2009 at 10:05 AM

Has anyone out there in Hipo land seen or bought the CJ Pony repop item they offer for near 300 bucks? They claim it took 2 yrs to get it right. Never having seen the genuine article myself (I've a C8xxx service item on my engine), I can't tell if their offering is truly accurate in texture, marking, and appearance to the geenie item. I do notice the rear edge is chamfered however.

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65Rangoon_old · Draft Tube Question 65Rangoon_old January 11, 2009 at 6:41 PM

Some had draft tubes. Case in point is 65Hipo's car.

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65Rangoon_old · Top Gear, anyone? 65Rangoon_old January 11, 2009 at 4:00 PM

I'm still trying to convince my head to accept that show. It has the wackiest format of anything I've seen before. Especially so, when as you point out, the three of them are engaged in their seemingly nonsensical racing from start point A to finish point B. Duh!

Still, they do seem to be brutally candid about their likes and dislikes (e.g. the negative bit on the F150 pickups' quality control a couple of weeks back), and I admire that.

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65Rangoon_old · Hello 65Rangoon_old January 9, 2009 at 9:27 AM

A big welcome to the forum from Texas. Your right about the avialability of info and expertise here. Hope your new ride arrives safe & sound.

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65Rangoon_old

I'm a member (65Rangoon). Thanks for the rapid response Steve.

Edited by - 65Rangoon on 12/31/2008 10:58:11

Edited by - 65Rangoon on 12/31/2008 17:02:55

65Rangoon_old · "8 vs 9" Rear end 65Rangoon_old December 11, 2008 at 6:20 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> My question is how do I tell if it's a 8" or 9".<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Look at the two bottom most nuts that hold the pumpkin to the housing. If it's a 9", those two nuts are not accessible with a ratchet/socket setup, but can only be loosened/removed with a box or open-end wrench or possibly a crows foot.

65Rangoon_old · Paint seuqence 65Rangoon_old December 11, 2008 at 9:46 AM

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How about that 3M foam masking? That might be easy - wonder what kind of edge you actually get.

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>I was looking at that product a few weeks back. I would expect a 'soft' transition similar to 'backtaping'.

65Rangoon_old · Interior Paint 65Rangoon_old December 2, 2008 at 4:24 PM

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Thanks Charlie, but I believe Accumatch is a lacquer and it won't work over enamel. I wish I had used a lacquer earlier.

Yep it does call out lacquer on the can. But, I've been using it on the interior parts (both fiber glass and metal), of the mach 1 I'm restoring, and for primer I've used Rust-Oleum rattle can gray automotive paint. Can't find a specific call-out on the can as to it being lacquer or enamel but for clean up it does recommend mineral spirits. That suggests enamel and it smells so as well. In any event I didn't eperience any lifting or crazing when I sprayed the Accumatch color coat on.

You might want to consider experimenting a little.

65Rangoon_old · Interior Paint 65Rangoon_old December 1, 2008 at 9:36 AM

I've used rattle cans from accumatch products in several cars (http://www.accumatchproducts.com) with excellent results. Color match was spot on I thought, but, I am color deficient (I see but 3 numbers total in the color vision flip charts). Paint flow-out was also excellent and has just the right semi gloss appearance.

65Rangoon_old · new board design- too busy? 65Rangoon_old November 24, 2008 at 9:11 AM

I favor the board with the technical data at the bottom. If the upper portion was solid blue I think it would emphasize the car better than the cloudy background.

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