Posts by 65Rangoon_old

  • Recomend a Caliper Rebuilder

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>You might consider doing it yourself. I've done many over the years with complete success. No need to split the caliper halves to do a rebuild, but do eyeball the pistons closely for pitting etc. Replace if in doubt of their condition.


    As far as silicon fuild, I've been running it in my Hipo for over 10 years now. Absolutely no issues. Some may claim a softer pedal with the silicon fluid, but I can't tell if there is a difference. Bubbling has also been mentioned by some, primarily when bleeding the system. That could be so. After about 5 yrs on the road, when preping the car for the 40th trip to Nashville I did a system bleed just for S&G, and did get a tad of air from the rt rear caliper. No way of knowing if it was a left over from my original system bleed, or ?????? I think silicon is the way to go for two reasons; It won't destroy paint and most importantly it is not hydroscopic.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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    Edited by - 65Rangoon on 08/27/2010 18:44:01

  • AM Radio wiring

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Well this may confuse more than help. In any case, my wiring diagram calls out the wire from the fuse box with the 3 socket female connector as blk in color. The schematic also shows a yel/blk wire from that 3 socket female connector going to the short single pin male connector (no color defined) at the radio. Lastly, the two wire blk/grn male/female plug at the radio connects to the speaker lead.


    If the schematic is accurate, the short blk male connector is not a gnd but is the power input to the radio. Although not shown on the schematic, I believe the radio when installed, picks up its chassis ground through both the radio support bracket which attaches to the back of the radio and the underside of the dash, and the nuts which secure the radio knob assemblies to the front of the dash.


    I'd sure get out the ole electrical/ohm meter to verify.


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  • Production date question for my San Jose build

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>In the Mustang Production guide, there are but 3 listings for a '66 San Jose car beginning with the VIN 133, that included the date code data. The first is 133454 followed by 456 and 589. The date codes are 18L, 18L, & 17L (Nov) respectively. Perhaps you can zero in closer on your cars date code with this info.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I recognize the VIN on this tranny. It is the one bought by a vendor for just $65.00 (the purchasers claim not mine) from another vendor at the mid Apr 2010 swap meet at New Braunfels TX. I posted the details on the forum after getting back home from the meet. Oddly, even though he was aware it was a Hipo piece based on the tag, he didn't know about the factory VIN stamping until I mentioned it to him. We rolled it over, and there it was.


    I imagine that little detail probably added 300.00 to his asking price.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>[Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

  • New Braunfels TX swap meet

    This past Friday, I overheard one vendor tell another vendor he had just scored, based on the ID tag, a Hipo toploader from yet a 3rd vendor. I asked him if it had a VIN stamped on the case. He didn't know, and was not familiar with that detail. Met up with him at his pad location, and sure enough, it was VIN stamped. (5R07K155573 if I recall & read it correctly)


    Now here is the rest of the story; When telling his vendor friend about his good fortune, he also mentioned he payed just $65.00 bucks for it.


    That is sort of like the gentleman in England who recently found a stash of gold treasure with his metal detector. When all was said & done, he, and the property owner, split 5.5M, the assessed value of the find.


    We should all experience that kind of luck at a swap meet at least once in this lifetime.


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  • 1965 Ford Mustang GT K-Code 2+2 Fastback: 5F09K

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    The reproduction data plate sends up a lot of flags for me.


    -Fred-

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    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I'll say!


    Pics of the VIN at both fender apron locations would be far more definitive as to the pedigree of this hoss. Not to mention the block stamping even if the engine was sourced from a donor kar as is the case with my transplanted Fairlane Hipo engine. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Air extractor tape.

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Could that tape strip be a anti rattle measure between the vent assy and the backside of the interior fiberglass finish panel??


    I've taken a number of the interior panels off over the years on cars that appeared to have never been disturbed, and have yet to find any tape.


    Opps, cancel that thought. After looking closer, and as noted by oziphil, it's between the body and the vent assy. Still, I've never seen tape in that area, on any car I've taken apart.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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    Edited by - 65Rangoon on 01/10/2010 18:02:30

  • 65-65 K production Breakdown

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    Has anyone ever seen or heard of a further breakdown of the 65 year model K code cars? i.e. How many 64.5 Ks were produced?

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    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I know of no such breakdown relative to the number of '64-1/2' cars produced. I think as far as Ford was concerned, from April 17 thu to the start of the 66 models year, all of the first production run were '65 models. I believe we rabid Mustangers are the ones who coined the 64 1/2 identifier for those early cars that had generators. I expect from Fords point of view, going to an alternator (and other mechanical improvements) was simply a running engineering change.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Starter motor types

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Can't directly comment on starter differences, although I've never run into a fit problem over the years.


    While you probably already know this, the ring gear on a flywheel can be removed by heating. If tooth condition on the 'unused' side of the gear justifies, the work to pull the trans and have a shop reverse the gear on the flywheel may be justified.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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  • Newbie

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Howdy Henry, welcome to the forum.


    Beyond matching mechanicals (i.e VIN stamps on fender apron, engine block & trans etc, etc, tin termites (rust) is a real problem, and of course NH winters and road chemicals are not friendly to any steel body. Frame rails, bottoms of doors/quarter panels, the cowl area, are all areas that neeed close inspection. Virtually everything sheet metal, is avialable in the aftermarket, and of course donor car parts.


    Not trying to put you off, but as youngster I lived and went through high school in the Fremont, Kingston area, and I know how bad corrosion can be.


    If you would like to jaw bone in depth, shoot me an email.

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  • Drum Brake Shoes

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    So is it a worthwile mod to fit the larger cylinders to improve the rear brakes ?

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote><font face='Comic Sans MS'>I believe it could be a worthwhile mod. In my case I went to 2-1/2 drums, ala the Shelbys and that made a noticeable difference.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


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