Posts by kookie_old

    Has anyone installed LED lights in thier dash? I just recieved a kit from NPD, and after reading the directions, Im not sure that I want to make the change. The directions say to cut the springs in half, (they force the the lamps into position)! I realy don't want to hack up my harness.


    Thanks, Mark

    Been a while since Ive last posted, but I check in every now and then and keep an eye on all-yall. my question would be, Im looking to put a new distributer cap on my Kar; I am looking in NPD but don't know witch one I should get. I want the best! would it be 12106-2A


    My build date is June 7. 66

    thanks, Mark


    Edited by - kookie on 05/20/2010 14:34:48

    FYI

    Found this at another Mustang forum, The Next time I have the Problem I'll try it.


    Quote

    "If you pulled the small wires off your solenoid and it killed the engine, your solenoid is either defective or staying engaged. The wire from the ignition (the one closest the battery) is only hot when the ignition is in the start position and provides power to the internal coil which pulls the contacts for the starter motor in. If the engine died when you pulled this wire, the ignition switch is providing power when it shouldn't, and you would want to change the switch. The other small wire provides a full 12V to the coil during the start cycle and gets it's power from the engaged contacts. If the engine died when you pulled this wire, the contacts are staying engaged or there is a short inside the solenoid assembly. You would want to change the solenoid in this case. One other point. I've found when you have a noisy solenoid, it's usually because you have a larger than normal current flow, or a bad solenoid. I would have your starter checked to make sure it isn't ready to die, and if it's good, buy another solenoid just for GP."

    Last year at a local Ford car show I was getting ready to head out and when I turned the key, nothing! I hooked up my Remote starter switch, gave it a tap and the starter engaged. I then got back in the car and turned the key and the car started. I never had any more problems until yesterday when I went to turn the car off and , nothing! I left key in the off position popped the hood and pulled the coil wire out. I've turned the car on and off several times with no problems since yesterday but I know there is a problem. I replaced the ignition switch about ten years ago , Is it the switch ? could it be the tumbler ? a short under the dash ? What to you think ?


    Mark

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    I guess the other way of looking at it might be a block, crank, and rods....... (assuming they're all HiPo goodies, Brinell mark, etc.)

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    The rods look wrong to me,

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    Hey there...looking for a HIPO fan belt for our late 66 hipo engine that sits in our 66 shelby...are they the same belt as the standard belt? I seen a pic of a belt on a 65 hipo that had some red stipes on it???anyhow would love some info on what is correct..pics..part numbers?? size/specs of it...

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    Last time I saw one of those ( red striped ) was back in 1984-85

    It was on my Frinds 66- GT350. He was the Alaska SAAC Rep.

    At that time he told me that: That belt was very rair and

    hard to find. We need to get those Baby's Re-poped. I have some

    Old photos of the belt. with the red stripes. I'll Figure out

    a way to get them on the board

    I think that if you have two shelbys of the same year and build one car. that would constitute a rebodied Shelby. but taking a shelby vin # and applying that number to a non shelby car and selling it as

    rebodied shelby is totaly BS. Maybe its in the shelby reg just for a

    record of that spacific shelby vin

    I put in a new fuel sending unit about 2 years ago and it is leaking. I don't offhand remember where I purchased it from but I do remember that the float was plastic. It is not the seal or the rubber line that is leaking, it is where the electrical lead hooks up. Where can I get a good one? I need one for a 1970 tank


    Thanks

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Mark, I am sure that you really believe that most of us still have our original engine ID tags however from my experience I doubt that we do. They do seem to disappear from Hipo engine more often probably from being worked on more during their lifetime. This is especially true when high rise manifolds and Holley carbs are changed out to try to get more performance which is what these Kars were made for. However this is just my opinion and has no real basis in fact.

    -Fred-

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    I dont have one, its been gone since the late 70s, when I installed an aftermarket intake and carb. what info is needed in order to have one of these made up and how much?

    ..Mark

    im trying to isolate a starting problem. Its only happened a couple of times; Mostly when the kar has been running for a while and then sits for a couple of hours cooling off. I turn the key and nothing but a faint click. I move the trany selector from park to neutral and still nothing. I get out my remote and jump the starter solenoid and the starter turns over. I get back in the kar turn the key - no problem, kar is running. I'v checked out the adjustment on the Neutral safety switch and that is fine, but I still think that it could be going bad. So I think its either the ignition switch, the starter solenoid, and or the neutral safety switch. so the question is; what is the best way to tackle this... Mark

    On the wiring instructions it says to hook up the red wire to the ignition, the black to the ground, and the orange to bat.

    They say that the orange(bat) is for the clock and presets. I dont think this radio has a clock or any presets. I'm wondering if the orange should be hooked up to the light swich that way you can use the dimmer function that works with the instruments. How did all yuall do it

    I called Orlando Mustang 407.688.1966 last week and he ( Pete) told me to call him back in one month; it seems that he is out of wood. the price is $399.00 plus 200.00 for plating. My wheel is in excelent condition other than one crack. If they decide to do job I will not have any chrome plating done. Dallas Mustangs no longer has the service avalable, appearantly they have to by large quanities to place an order. Dallas Mustang refered me to Hemmings. Let me know if you find some one else.


    Mark

    can anyone tell me where to find new 10" x 2 1/2" rear drums ?

    the aerostar ones that i have fit but the center hole for the hub

    is slightly too large. Would this mean that the drum cannot be centered on the axle? i know that cobra automotive

    has these units but they are $$$$. what do the shelby guys do when they need to replace rear brake drums?


    Thanks Mark

    but what im saying is.. that the 2 1/2 drum fits.

    it mounts flush with the axle flange (hub whatever)

    and does not interfere with the backing plate;

    it turns free. my old drum measured. 10x2.5 but

    would only accept 10x1.3/4 shoes (thats what started this whole idea)

    i went junk-yarding the other day and picked up

    a ford airostar rear drumb 10 x 2 1/2. it fits.

    why do you need diferent backing plates. it looks like

    all i need to do is get the bigger shoes and the

    longer hold down pins. i dont see any diference

    between my stock backing plates and the airostar ones.


    thanks mark