Posts by captchas

original owner long ago past away so the history is unknown and no it wasn't rebalanced dead as built just with a new hatchet weight timing set, sadly the current owner of the motor cheaped out, stating it ran just had a piston pin knock,, yah sure,i've never before seen cam bearing worn to the steel and the oil pump pickup clogged with silicon sealer, going by summit and jegs looks like a 28 ounce imbalance should work on a stock configuration , o-well if it vibrates it's his problem . as it was fine on the dyno with the stock flywheel making a easy 306 hp at 6.000

getting ready to install the rebuilt hipo that was rebuilt using the proper hatchet weight timing set along with the oem damper,

can someone in the know tell me what the proper flex plate off balance should be, since i'm using a C4 trans ,

simply wish to be sure knowing the now rarity of real 289 k code motors

Metucheon block? is it common for these assembly plant blocks to lack the stamped VIN?

still on ebay, last one, https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr…+chain&_sacat=0

fred speaks the big truth , when a flywheel lets loose it makes a big mess, as a drag racer and a EMS/ EMT, not contained i have seen people loose feet when the chunks went though the floor cutting/ripping large holes

wish i knew??? it's stamped into the rail just under the pan gasket area just above the machining date code that cleaned up reads 5K12T on a block cast 5J25 .

if these codes are read correctly it's about 3 weeks from casting of the block to final assembly .

very similar only from a 58 chevy 348 tri power. blew the flywheel grand opening day of english town raceway park right after i made the 1 to 2 shift , over reved the motor blowing a few pistons out of the block laying them on the left upper a frame and doing the very first oil down for that track.

302 /z28 chevy really was a 327/350 block with a 3 inch 283 stroke as the block used the larger 350 mains and rods . bore wise while some early 283's could handle a 125 over if sonic tested they were pretty thin ,just like a windsor ford gets when bored to 060 ,

PS

torque specs are driving me a little nuty mains and heads i have found 70 on most 289's save a few that tell 289hp 95 to 105 , what's correct?

hate sounding super dumb as i'm normally a chevy guy owning a 64 C2 250 hp coupe and a 70 ls 6 ss454 chevelle but love all of the big 3 muscle cars .i enjoy restoring them all in semi retirement .

thank you fred

this motor came out of a wrecked 350 somewhere in the early 70's when it was placed into a 1932 Todor sedan, barely used due to low pressure oiling and overheating issues ,it sat from about 1992 till we pulled it to freshen it up. while doing a restoration/updating of the 32

casting dates

block 5j25

heads 5k 2 and 5k4

assembly stamp on the left front ear 5k14

there is NO vin stamp anywhere on the block on the right front yet a barely readable 5k 1??? stamped into the pan rail under the pan gasket on the right rear corner by the rear main with a large R stamped above that number

somehow i have a gut feeling this was a warranty or a over the counter long block as these dates if correct should be for a 1966 car not a 65? since i understand 66 production started mid aug 65 ,

i have located a NOS timing set and will use it. other wise the block ball honed nicily, staying standard , crank still remarkable standard/standard, it will get a new set of pistons as we found several tight wrist pins.along with several signs of valve float where they did hit the pistons, bending a few intake valves the reason for low oil pressure that wiped the cam bearings out found, a clogged pump pickup .

machine shop has rebuilt the heads , bronze sleeved the guides,

the cam is going to be a comp nostalgia hydro lifter cl31-670-4  

carburation while we do have the oem autolight we will use a 600 cfm holley single feed ,

with how rare and costly when found, how and what do you use as a camshaft timing set in place for the hatchet weight oem set,

do i have to leave anything out such as the oil slinger, will the engine need to be rebalanced without/?

this is my first k code motor build in my 55 years as a mechanic and i'm lost .

new to this site, but a old time mechanic . i'm building a 65 K code for a buddy but lack some brains as far as k code motors go,

the biggest issue i see is somewhere in time someone heaved the hatchet weight timing set, replaced with a non HP set.

can that type be safely used? what has to be done to use it?