Posts by noelfisher_old

  • Parts Identification

    Quote

    Can someone tell me what engine the following parts go to:

    1. Rods 68AE-D

    2. -Pistons C4OF61104

    Gary - Tony (& Marv) list the following:

    1. Hipo Rods = C30Z-6200-C part no., C3AE-D casting no. (mine agree with this casting)

    2. Pistons = Casting no. C3OZ-6108-L. (Mine were C4-OE6116A before I replaced them with TRW L-2482F pistons. Could it be that our readings were transposed? Note the similarities below: E & F, 0 & 6, 4 & A:

    C4 OF61104

    C4 OE6116A

  • BODY VIN # LOCATIONS

    Quote from b9folk

    I've had my fenders off for at least a year, and didn't spot the vin stampings from the top until I used steel whool and a little laquer thinner on the areas. Amazing how I could be working a couple inches away from the stampings and not be able to see them, but such was the case. My undersides were undercoated so I never looked there.

    Front clip?

  • Shelby vs. Shelby

    Quote from dunc289

    a rebodied shelby, by all accounts, is still a Mustang [ anyone disagree?] a CSX or Kirkham is a streetrod, newly fabricated, with nothing historically going for it, and the honest owner can say its rebodied and still claim a historical thread to the original. Honesty would still bear value to the car. The others have nothing but kit car value. IHO.

    Right on, Duncan!

  • Henry Ford II Mustang


    Iacocca's is still sitting in my cousin's garage as I type this. Not sure what he's going to do with it. Needs a fresh restoration, as the one that was completed by my uncle 30+ years ago is tired.


    I believe Mustang Monthly contacted him about a follow up article to the one they did 20 years ago.


    Ron / Jeff,

    there is another HFII car (vert) on the west side but it is not a "K". Is Iacocca's a K? The three of us could probably go have a look at it this winter if you're interested.

  • Help

    Quote from 66KGT

    You need to have your pics hosted somewhere that allows direct linking to post them here. Email me and I'll see what I can do to help...


    Merlyn

    Then follow the instructions for "Creating a Hyperlink in your message" under FAQs.

  • replace or repair floorpans

    Quote from 65shelby

    I can lay out a step-by-step process either here or off-line via e-mail if you're interested.

    It would also help to have some snap shots of the areas, particularly where the pan joins the toe board in the front where an add'l seam is present.

    Mark

    Mark - I'll bet there are others on this site besides me who would love to read (and see, if you have photos) your step-by-step process.

  • tri y header ?

    Quote from otto

    Hi , did you have to dimple the pipes on the drivers side for the clutch linkage, and how long ago did you get them, and any chance you remember the brand, i know places seem to change their supplier often thanks Otto

    Otto - I bought them about three years ago and installed them 1 year ago. I do not remember the brand - sorry. I did not have to dimple either one of them. Thought I might when test fitting, but it does not touch. After test fit, I did the powder coating. They are very nice. Oh, I had to mill them at the gasket area to get them flat. I don't think this is unusual.

  • Restoration Opinions

    Quote from garymcgowan

    As for the battery I was thinking of ordering one from CJ Pony and just use it for show. Not sure that is a good idea but I was thinking of leaving the acid out and just mount the battery for show. Never been a participant at a show and don't know if I can do that.

    I have one with no acid... I will not take a chance on the engine compartment. I prepped it and had it painted three times before I was satisfied. There are plenty of people who do exactly as you describe - take a correct looking one to a show with you. I sold my house, but once I get a new house and garage, I think the battery will look nice sitting on a bench - my kind of sculpture.


    BTW, there is an engine compartment detailing thread on this site that you can search for. Here is a link to one at Vintage-Mustang:


    http://links.vintage-mustang.com/FAQ/engine_com…_detailing.html

  • Restoration Opinions

    Quote from garymcgowan

    quote:

    A rust free 44,000 mile car I'd be tempted to do nothing to it other than maintenance and aquiring some of the correct parts that may be gone. Unrestored can be good!


    Hmmm.... you bring up a very good point. Do you think I should just clean it up in the engine bay and not paint? The only parts I see that need replacing are the following:


    1. Alternator

    Quote

    I'd keep that alternator if it's original. Even if you buy a new one, I'd have the original reconditioned and detailed.

    2. Windshield washer bag and hose

    3. Battery (proper one)

    Quote

    Careful of the acid-type batteries... I've heard horror stories about them exploding after a few years and maiking a mess of nicely detailed engine compartments.

    4. Clutch (Current one requires a gorilla to depress it)

    Quote

    I installed a Centerforce - so far, so good - much easier use.

    5. Transmission (Current one is a RUG?)

    6. Coil

    7. Proper Cap and wires

    8. Maybe the exhaust (has new exhaust but I am unsure if it is correct for the car)

    9. Oil Pan (Someone put a modified pan with increased oil capacity)

    10. Remove long tube headers and install original headers that came with the car.


    I think that is the only parts I would have to purchase and/or replace. Believe it or not it still has the original radiator cap. Maybe a new cap would be needed. :D


    Thanks... Gary