After more than 10 years with Hagerty, I switched to Grundy this past autumn... tripled the insurance value and ended up with lower rates. And - more lenient driving conditions. (But, I do not know about "wintertime" or "restoration" rates.)
Posts by noelfisher_old
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I am no expert on this, but it seems to me that, if you are sure it is a correct drive shaft, you'd want to clean it up and have it re-balanced anyway before using it.
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http://www.vintage-mustang.com/
I had no problem getting into it. Maybe your problem has something to do with their new server, re. this notice:
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Da new server...
Posted by bob on 02-14-07 11:30 AM
Well, we're on the new server now. However, I REALLY need to do some optimizing! I'm running the 'standard' db install, and that won't cut it. So, expect some major slowdowns as I figure out how to take advantage of this new box.
Also, I'll be upgrading to the new version of the software shortly, which will facilitate some new improvements!
Bear with me - I've had little time to deal with good ol' VMF!
I'll keep everyone posted!
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Quote from redraggtop
How rare are 1967 K-Code fastbacks? I just purchased a very restorable K fast back for $2,000 and am hoping I have quite a find.
By restorable, I'm guessing it has a drive train. CONGRATULATIONS!
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Welcome, Joe. Nice to have you - there are quite a few guys from Connecticut on the forum and all seem to be very informed.
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I had the same problem a year ago and thought I'd never get them off. Believe it or not, it will work the way the guys describe it above. I remember thinking, gee that wasn't so bad after all.
Also - I do not think you should use anything on them, but maybe I am wrong.
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Quote from b9folk
Maybe it was done by Red Green?
Lyle - it takes a Minnesotan to come up with this one... what a riot. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that "unmolested" could be one of Red Greens favorite words.
First thing we all noticed is the blue engine color. I had my '65 engine rebuilt to specs and painted the engine blue cause the car is not concours and we like the blue better. Of course it is something that can be reversed. Who knows, I'll get bored some day and change it to black.
Well, it's Autorama day in Detroit...
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I understand that the R model intakes were different. Does anyone have a photograph of the racing version?
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My son who lives in Hermosa Beach is restoring our RallyPac and needs a tachometer calibration. Can any of you guys in So Cal recommend a tach shop out there?
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Charles, I think I have had a fit problem 3 times (not bad at all) but the only one I can think of right now is the nuts for the top side of the shocks. I have Koni shocks, so that may be the reason. I have saved those that do not fit, but cannot get to them as they're in storage. Please don't get me wrong - I really like AMK.
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Super - thank you.
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If you need a lot of nuts and bolts, I think you'll find the kits to be less expensive. Also, I have found that some of their hardware is not correct and will not fit, though not many.
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Ahhh, thank you. I sure hope I can do at least one.
I'd prefer the Petoskey, cause one of my close old buddies from the 60s lives there.
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So, where do we get a reliable coil for driving? I'm going to guess that you will tell us it's NAPA (Echlin) since their other products, like distributors, are so good. Does anyone know? I've had a repop for a few years and have had no problems, but I'd rather not take a chance.
(One of the super guys on the site has my original, cause his car is concours.)
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Jeff, glad to have ya'. I'll be moving my son to Columbus near the end of the month - 25th or 26th. I'd love to stop in some time to see your car. I love looking them over.
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O agree with Gene - warn parts is very likely.
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Well, I can only come up with the money factor. I love red wine and Champaign and Bells beer --- and old jazz and opera, Joe Williams and Basie and Pavarotti. And I love old Mustangs and the sound of small block 289s and the feel of winding two lanes. If you can spend the money...
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My opinion is that if you don't have it done, then you've lost the car. If you do have it rebuilt (sorta re-bodied) then you do have the car and likely a very nice one. So, go figure the money part. From what you've said, they are honest people and probably have given you a shot in the dark on cost.
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Quote from Buzzwald
I'd like to include myself in the question. Does anyone know where 5F08K-309477 might be located? Wife sold it while I was in RVN.
Assuming that you are dealing with Michigan, you'll have a difficult time tracking your VIN. I contacted the state here and was informed that they do not keep records older than (I think) 10 years.