The rubber is cracked
Thanks again guys.
In a perfect scenario I'd pull the engine clean up and detail the engine bay and surrounding areas, rebuild the engine or pull the assembly to have it balanced and replace gaskets clean up and paint, then put it all back together.
But, I know the perfect scenario is not always an option, and which I have to wait on. I was just trying to replace a couple safety items (damper and flyweel) to get the car running and driving for the short term (maybe 1-2 years) and then see what I can do after that.
I'm trying to see how quickly I can take the old and new dampers and flywheels to get balanced to see where they're at and then go from there.
I appreciate the help!
Ok, thanks. Well, I'm trying to do this to a "running" car and I'm not able to pull the engine at this point in time. I'm not opposed to having the assembly balanced but if I was having that done I figure I would probably just go ahead and rebuild it. Was hoping to get the car on the road and then make the complete engine rebuild phase 2 or 2b in a year or two.
It kind of seems that it's not very common knowledge about the hipo needing a 30.4oz flywheel, so I was curious as to how many people might be just installing a 28.2oz flywheel without realizing it's different.
I was thinking about taking the old flywheel and the balancer to have the balance checked on those so I have more information as to what's there or maybe what has been done. It doesn't appear that there has been much metal removed which makes me think there may not have been additional balancing since these parts left the factory, but maybe you could shed some light on what you've seen in stock components in your experience?
The crank has 2 holes where material was removed- 3/4" diameter hole about 0.700" deep in the front counterweight (it's actually drilled a little off-center, a little out of the counterweight) and a 3/4" diameter hole in the rear counterweight about 0.600" deep.
The flywheel just has a 1/2" diameter divot removed on the engine side about 90degrees from the flywheel counterweight.
The damper has three small holes grouped together (about 0.300" diameter and about 0.400" deep) on the front side of the inertia ring but the same area as the damper counterweight.
From your experience, do those sound like evidence of factory balancing?
Thanks Fred. Right off the bat my brother told me to get a steel flywheel so I have a Centerforce billet flywheel and dual friction clutch kit that is/was ready to go on the car.
But, I guess that's one of things that makes this confusing- if the stock hipo imbalance was 30.4 oz.in but really the only available direct replacement flywheels or dampers are 28.2 oz.in what have guys been doing all these years? If they have a stock hipo engine and replace the flywheel with what they think is the appropriate 28.2 oz.in imbalance have they been fine with 28.2 on the back of the engine and 30.4 on the front? Or have they had to recalculate and ditch the 25oz hipo damper and 5oz counterweight so they have 28.2 on the front and 28.2 on the back?
I guess what would you advise someone to do if they knew they had a stock 289 hipo engine and just wanted or needed to replace the flywheel but 28.2 oz.in is all that is available?
It's a C3OE large K-code balancer. Was hoping to get it going without having to remove the bottom end but I know it's difficult to know what the balance is now.
I was wondering if I could at least have the old flywheel and damper checked for amount of imbalance to at least see if anything was done to either of those or how far off they might be.
I've read that the original K-code balancers were around 25 oz.in imbalance and the hatchet counterweight was around 5 oz.in to total up to 30.4 oz.in. And I've read that the reproduction hipo dampers are actually 28.2 oz.in. I wonder if the reproduction counterweights are still 5ish oz.in?
It seems the smaller timing set is hard to come by?
Hi all, I'm new to this forum and have a question that I've posted on VMF but also wanted to see if anyone here might be able to help more specifically related to the HiPo rotating assembly.
My engine is a 302 Mexican block but has what appears to be 289 hipo components for the rest of the engine (heads, rods/crank, damper, possibly flywheel, possibly cam). The car is new to me and I can't completely verify the specific history of the engine with the car (actually an A-code fastback GT) as I purchased the car from the family of the deceased previous owner. I don't know for certain if this engine was run successfully for a period of time or if he was just in the process of swapping it and making changes. I've run the engine in the car to do some checks and to flush the coolant but have not had it on the road yet.
That being said, I pulled the front cover and dropped the pan to change the rear main seal and to check the oil pump and timing set and noticed that it does not have the hatchet counterweight and has a double roller timing chain in place of the original narrower timing set.
My plan was to put it back together with a new timing cover and water pump, install a new damper (either Summit or Ford Racing 28.2oz damper) and a new 28.2oz Centerforce flywheel to go along with new Centerforce dual friction clutch kit. Was talking to my brother (Boss 302 owner/builder) and we were getting a little concerned about possibly disrupting the balance of the assembly by swapping out those parts and the uncertainty regarding if the engine was put together with the hatchet counterweight and then removed at some point for the double roller timing chain. Or, if the parts or assembly may have been balanced before reassembly accounting for the removal of the hatchet counterweight.
I've learned that the hipo flywheels and damper/counterweights are actually 30.4 oz.in imbalance rather than 28.2 oz.in. Would that mean that even if there wasn't a question about the hatchet counterweight, would it be a bad idea to change out the damper and flywheel combination to 28.2 oz.in? Has anyone run into this dilemma?
And then how would the counterweight factor in if both the damper and flywheel were equal not including the counterweight?
I've been trying to go through the 289 High Performance Mustang book by Tony Gregory and Bob Mannel's Small Block book/bible for information but still need help.
The rods do have the 3/8" bolts along with orange paint, the crank has some remnants of orange paint and has material removed at front and rear counterweights (one 3/4" hole at each). The flywheel has more of a yellow paint daub than orange but appears to have a test mark on the inner bolt circle on the clutch side (or maybe it is a locating mark?) and has a small divot (about 1/2" diameter) removed from the rough casting on the engine side of flywheel. The damper has 3 small 0.300" holes grouped together on the front side of the ring. I'm not sure if any or all of these would have been like this from the factory or if they may have been done later.
I was ready to button everything back up with the new parts but then hit this snag. Thanks in advance!
I purchased a '66 Fastback Fastback GT (factory) 2 years ago from the family of a gentleman that had owned the car since 1967. It is a 4-spd and actually an A-code car but at some point he started swapping various K-code parts. It has a tapered 9" axle housing (along with 3.89 open diff.) from what I believe was a '65 K-code, a close ratio toploader that I believe is from a '67 K-code, and the current engine while not officially a hipo unit seems to be comprised of mostly hipo parts. The original A-code engine is on a stand.
It has a Mexican 302 block (I know, not 289 or K-code) date coded late 1968 with the larger main caps,
HiPo heads date coded late July and Early August 1964 and solid lifters so possibly HiPo cam,
What appears to be HiPo rods- 3/8" rectangular head rod bolts and orange paint on the sides of the rods,
What appears to be a HiPo selected crank but not certain; has some remnants of orange paint on one the journals,
C3OE-B damper, has G4 stamped next to timing marks
Flywheel is C3OE-6380 B 160-tooth, with daub of what looks more like yellow paint
Hatchet counterweight and timing set is no longer there, has double roller chain instead.
Aluminum water pump, no backing plate,
Screwed together fuel pump with integral filter, but no markings
Older Cobra intake manifold
HiPo exhaust manifolds
It also came with two dual point distributors
I've not driven the car yet. The previous owner passed away in 2013 and I'm not sure when the last time was that he drove it. I've been trying to go through the mechanicals to get it on the road and then see what it needs. I've redone the rear end and installed a 3.25 limited slip (for now), added the 10x2.5" rear drum brake setup, might put a wide ratio gear set in the toploader, and have been doing some tests on the engine to make sure it's road worthy.
I'm hoping to just enjoy it as-is for now and go through different areas as I go along. The body is straight and original but has been re-sprayed and has the lower drivers door rust and the right rear lower quarter rust that will need repair.
I'm excited to see how the "hipo" engine runs and hope to run it for several years but I figure I may have a rebuild or other in my future. I like the idea of having this engine in the car but since these parts aren't a match for this car I may think about selling the heads, damper, distributors, etc. to someone that actually needs them specifically for a K-code restoration. I have a set of '69 351W heads that have been gone through with oversize valves and portwork that I could put on the car at some point if need be and still be somewhat period correct.
In the mean time, I'm sure I'll need help along the way to make sure I'm setting it up properly.