Posts by toolbox

I say if you will be using the car as a daily driver, go ahead and get the hardend seats. But if you are going to put limited miles on the motor anyway, just leave the iron seats alone. You shouldn't have any problems with erosion if you only drive the car ocassionally.

After all, the heads can only stay original once, and if they do wear out in the future you can just get them changed then with a valve-job.

I think they still sell "lead additive" that is supposed to replace the lubricating quality in fuel. If you're worried you could mix that with the gas.

I voted Vert. Not only are they fun with the top down, they look great with the top up, too. They have just the right proportions- long hood, short trunk, and cool little quarter windows. (just like the coupes!)

This guy sells a variety of original Ford steel wheels, 15X5.5 & 15X6

http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/wheels.html

My opinion is that these wheels suit GM cars better than Mustangs. I don't think they would look quite right on a K.

I wasn't alive when they first came out, but I think they were very popular on Oldsmobiles and Pontiacs.

The 65 Shelby style Cragers would be more appropriate.

Thanks Kar-nut

Does anyone have access to the original specs for the '65 style "cast iron" frame mounts? I want to find out what material they are made of. The reason I ask is that I recently purchased a set, and one of them has a bent up corner on the bottom. Now, I would assume that if they were actually cast iron they would just break and not bend - so maybe they're cast steel?? Ductile iron??

On a side note, I don't think I want to try bending it back for risk of breaking it. It will be easier just to fab up a new steel 'sandwich' plate that fits with the bend. But if anyone has tips on successfully bending cast metal I'm all ears.

We always presume that caps with the 'screw-on' casting plates are Mexican. I wonder if some service replacements (or even originals) also had the tags. Like mine: #4 has c3oe on the little plate instead of a date code. Has anyone ever seen a Mex cap like that??

FWIW my set could be a mixed set- I picked them up at the local Shelby shop.

And the 2nd #4 cap (rear main) doesn't have the pin hole for the rope seal.

edit: sorry, I've tried and tried to post a pic, but it always shows up HUGE. I don't know how to make it work.

I stand corrected - the regular #4 cap has the 'c3oe', and #2 has what looks like a date code '17B7'

I just saw a blurb in the Nov. Mustang Monthly that California Pony Cars now has reproduction C-servos available. This is good news for the auto transmission guys.

I have a set of hipo caps that has the rear cap marked with a '4' and a stamped 'D'. The regular #4 cap also has a '4' but with an arrow. and the # 2 cap has C3OE, a '2' and an arrow. 1 & 3 are typical with '1' & '3' and arrows.

I've actually had pretty good luck with Bar-B-Que black in spray cans. It almost looks like natural iron rather than a true black. And it holds up pretty well too. I sprayed the manifold on my 200 six about seven years ago and it still looks ok.

Plus, you can find the bar-b-que paint almost anywhere.

And as always, 99% of a good paint job is in the prep.

Quote from round2K

Where do you think the most likely spot would be for original undercarriage color to survive?

If the PO didn't blast off the factory sound deadener in the front wheel well area, you may be able to chip some of that off and look underneath.

On my kar the paint under the sound deadener matched the transmission tunnel paint exactly (semi gloss black w/white overspray)

Sounds like a float/needle valve problem.

January 65 build date with screw on clips here.

Is that a "Duraspark" unit on the inner fender?

This is a "California Guys" thread for sure. You guys have that sort of preservation on junk yard cars?? Us guys in New England usually don't even have that kind of preservation on garage kept cars.

You guys are spoiled rotten. - j/k

I have a set of hipo caps with the #4 cap having C3OE cast on a little screw on plate casting. And the rear main cap also has a 4 cast on it, and is stamped with a D.

I like the 'Baby Moon' style rims. Very retro. Very cool.

Just go to the hardware store and get an 1/8" roll pin. 3/4" long. That's all it is.

Quote from hipo_p51

i think the choice is very obvious.

Yep. With 400 hp you should go with a premium aftermarket performance mount. Depending on the header combination you decide to go with, you may even want to go with adjustable mounts to help with clearance issues.