Posts by bobmannel

  • Need to replace my 10"x2.5" drums

    Yes, the originals weighed 14 pounds. The finned one weighed 22½ pounds. I considered this a plus because the drum will absorb more heat so will be at a lower temperature than OEM for the same braking. And the fins will greatly improve the shedding of heat as well.

  • 65 Hipo Carb???

    This is a 1963 Galaxie 390 with Cruiseomatic 4V carburetor. If there was a tag (missing), it would clearly have shown a 1963 date code. Idle needle valves are not consistent with 1963, but are like ones I have seen on either 1966-67 time frame. Everything else looks 1963, from what I can see.

  • C4 Flexplate

    Does anyone know of a qualified shop to rebalance a flywheel or flex-plate to a specific ounce-inch imbalance? I know machine shops can balance the whole assembly, but doing just the flywheel requires special equipment.


    By-the-way, Ford balanced all the components separately, then assembled them. That is why you can buy (or should I say, could have bought) the proper flywheel separately and just installed it without rebalancing the engine.

  • Need to replace my 10"x2.5" drums

    I researched this for 1963-65 Fairlane rear station wagons which use 10x2½" drums. Current replacements are Raybestos 1639, ACDelco 18B455, and NAPA 6401130. I can't tell you for sure, but the same drums are probably used by all three brands. These are finned, not like OEM, but are better than OEM. Prices vary wildly. I got a set at RockAuto.com. They have a closeout sale of $44.79 (15 left), or regular inventory of $73.79. I bought the closeout. The closeout is from a warehouse they are liquidating. 30-day warranty only. Mine were fine. One box was water damaged (old damage), and the outer surface had some surface rust from the damp box. The other was perfect. Your choice.


    The center thickness (not to be confused with the center hole size which is correct) is more than the OEM by about .15", so if you don't change your rear axle studs there will be no threads outside the nut (stud end is flush with top of nut). If you want the stud sticking out of the nut by the original amount, then I recommend NAPA BK-6413204 studs. These are not like OEM in that they are silver-colored, but they work perfectly as replacements.


    This is what I used on my 1963 Fairlane station wagon. When installed and wheels/tires, and covers put on, you can't see the changes and the drums are better than OEM with the 2½" linings.

  • C4 Flexplate

    HiPo flex-plates have 30.4 oz. in. imbalance. Standard 289 flex-plates have 28.2 oz. in. imbalance. That is why they have different part numbers. If any one has a HiPo flex-plate, I am in need of one for a genuine 65 Fairlane HiPo automatic.

  • engine identification tag

    The exhaust manifolds were on the engine when painted. They were not painted (why waste the paint?), but paint overspray from painting the engine was on the bolts and manifolds next to the heads. I have verified this on many engines. The manifolds were often specific to the car. Mustangs and Fairlanes were the same, but the Galaxie, Falcon, and Comet had different driver's side manifolds. This means the engine was specific to a car model when it was painted.

  • Hipo Fuel Pump Question

    Ford TSB, section 9303, Article #7 dated 1/14/63, states in part, "New fuel pumps for the subject engines [221/260], to reduce objectionable noise levels, became effective in production approximately October, 1962 and are available for service. These fuel pumps may be identified by the letter 'X' cast on the diaphragm pull rod tower." The part number was C3AZ-9350-H.


    The 289 HiPo was not listed in the application because it would be about another month before that engine became available. All the 1963-64 289 HiPos used the fuel pumps with the X. The X had nothing to do with high performance. All engines used the same pump. It had one spring under the lever. They were the screw-together-type.

  • engine identification tag

    Engine tag had to have been put on the engine between the block painting and the hot test, which means Ford knew what vehicle the engine was going to go in. In 1964, the tag was installed under the temperature sender. Neither the tag or temperature sender were painted. Since the tag was not masked, the engine was painted first. And since Ford would not remove the temperature sender to install the tag, the tag had to be on the engine during hot test. Although the tag was located in a different place in 1965, I doubt Ford changed when the tag was installed. All this is just an educated guess. If my sources come up with something else, will post.

  • 67 hipo C-4 servo "A" or "C" ???

    According to my Ford Master Parts Catalog revised October 1967, the 1965 Fairlane with 289 HiPo and 1966 Mustang with 289 HiPo got the "C" servo cover. The 1967 Mustang K-code is not mentioned as getting the "C" servo. I would check your tag number. If it is PEE-K, I would stick with what you have if it looks like the transmission has never been rebuilt.

  • K engine rebuilding- any suggestions?

    A lot depends on the mileage. Generally, low oil pressure at idle means too much main bearing clearance, usually due to dirty oil carving up the main bearings and crankshaft journals. Replacing the main bearings is only half the problem, so the oil pressure will still be somewhat of a problem. Also, if the mileage is high, the pistons might have developed cracks in the piston skirts. And, the bores will be worn near the top so there will be some piston ring sealing problems (which will contaminate the oil more quickly with blow-by).


    If mileage is low (below 70,000 miles), and everything else looks good (clean oil, no sludge under the valve covers, oil consumption normal (no more than a quart per 1,000 miles)), then changing out the main bearings, putting in a new oil pump, and changing the valve guide seals might be worth a try. But, for everything else, probably time to bite the bullet and rebuild the engine.

  • air cleaner base color

    Here is another data point that seemd reliable. Back in the early 1990's I came across a very original 1964½ Mustang dated in June 1964. I photographed the engine (in black & white). It was a California care with closed emission system and wanted to get a picture of the hose attachment under the air cleaner. It is in my book on page 4-33 (photo 4C31(h)). The air cleaner bottom was gold. It also had a flat-top (type 2) chromed air cleaner lid. I remember we discussed that because it seemed a little early for the flat-top. He was not the original owner, so he could not be sure. But, from what I saw, this was one of the most original HiPos I had seen. everything was there: generator pulley, fan, carburetor, distributor, engine tag, etc. And nothing had been repainted. I could find nothing out of place. I know it was not an aftermarket lid (it was genuine), but whether it had been added to this engine some time later or was original to the car was something I could not determine. There were no decals on the top -- no high performance decal (like 1965), nor the replacement parts or spark plug decals (like 1964).

  • air cleaner base color

    HiPo air cleaner base colors are a real saga, perhaps an epic! When I wrote my book, there were no forums and networking like today. Today, I would go with what is found on original cars and why it is so important that these cars be documented. The color problem is muddied by other high performance cars using the same air cleaner. And the Falcon Sprints in 63-64 used the same bottom tray. Then there are the service replacements. It also seems that when a date code was stamped on the bottom, it was used for many months. So, a 5A date code could still be in use for 1966 production. One 5A bottom I have is painted Ford corporate blue. Seems they made them in batches. Bottom line is, we need to hear from owners of original cars and begin to build a consensus. Sounds like we have a good start with gold for 65. I have confirmed that the 63-64 HiPos were greenish gold (1968 Chevrolet Ash Gold is an exact match) top and bottom. Also, the transition from painted top cover to chrome is still unknown. Seemed it might be around 4-2-64 according to old MPCs, however, I have found a very original car with painted top cover with a scheduled build date of 27E. That's pretty late in the production year. As time goes on, we learn a little bit more. Please pass around what you know.

  • Alternator Restoration?

    Mike (mgmradio) is posting pictures of his unrestored August 1964 Mustang alternator and his June 1965 Mustang Alternator.


    The first is the 1964 alternator. Each picture is shown with the date stamping enlarged.


    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/AUG1964-1.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/AUG1964-1b.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/AUG1964-2.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/AUG1964-2b.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/AUG1964-3.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/AUG1964-3b.jpg]


    Here is the second of his June 1965 alternator:


    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/JUN1965-1.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/JUN1965-2.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/JUN1965-3.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/JUN1965-4.jpg]