Posts by bobmannel

This is an old post, but I just saw it so will add my two sense. I have found the plating to be overdone. Original carb metal parts were more sedate in color. But, on this carb, the big problem is the presense of the idle compensator valve on the back of the air horn. This says "CLONE" in capital letters. There was never an idle compensator valve on a HiPo carburetor. But, Galaxie 4100 Autolites used then extensively.

Order the normal way as someone in the US, but not in Tennessee. In the comments section as you go through just mentioned we discussed Australia shipping and you agree to the shipping costs. I will make the adjustment when I process your credit card (it is manually done, not automatical). You will get a confirmation from me via email as to the total charge to your card.

First, thanks for the orders. A bit of a spike the last few days, which is very helpful.

Yes, I do ship to Australia, but it is expensive ($38.95). It must go by Air Mail (6-10 days). I charge only what it costs me.

Convention wisdom in publishing is that you double the cost of creating and print a book for the wholesale price, then double that again for the retail price. My book cost me $15 to create and publish -- that is materials and printing, and does not include the 17 years of labor. So the book should retail for $60. That would never work, so I used $50. But, that would mean selling wholesale for $25. Unfortunately, the $10 I would make per book on such a low volume would be completely eaten away by business expenses. And that is the problem with amazon.com. They used to let me sell by special order with a 20% discount to them. Now they are asking for much more.

Bottom line, it is very difficult to put together a book like this and make it profitable (which the IRS eventually requires to deduct business expenses). That is why you don't often see books like this one. It's just the way things are.

Just as information, amazon.com was listing my book as unavailable. It is available, but not through amazon.com. They changed their policies for special orders and have made it impossible for me to sell through them and not lose money. I have asked amazon.com to remove my book from their website so as not to mislead customers into thinking the book is out-of-print. If you would like one, order through my website at http://www.fordsmallblock.com. It is the best price you can find outside of a used one. Sales have not been as strong as I had hoped, so there will only be one printing. When they are all gone (it will probably be a while), no more will be printed, but the website will remain to support the book. Bob Mannel (author)

Edited by - bobmannel on 06/20/2008 21:39:31

The larger flywheel (168/164 tooth) also takes a different starter motor.

Any idea of the date code on the Galaxie or on the 289?

A 1965 Mustang C-code 289 with 4-speed would have a tag number of 550-J.

On at least some reproduction manifolds, some grinding is needed to gain clearance for a spark plug socket. It can be close of the originals as well, but I have never had a problem if the original is tightened in a position for maximum clearance from the socket. There is only a little room for adjustment, but it is enough to make the difference between just bearing enough clearance and enough clearance.

Yes, the originals weighed 14 pounds. The finned one weighed 22½ pounds. I considered this a plus because the drum will absorb more heat so will be at a lower temperature than OEM for the same braking. And the fins will greatly improve the shedding of heat as well.

I believe that is a date code. If I can locate the ones I have, I will check. But, I think it safe to say it is as you think.

This is a 1963 Galaxie 390 with Cruiseomatic 4V carburetor. If there was a tag (missing), it would clearly have shown a 1963 date code. Idle needle valves are not consistent with 1963, but are like ones I have seen on either 1966-67 time frame. Everything else looks 1963, from what I can see.

Does anyone know of a qualified shop to rebalance a flywheel or flex-plate to a specific ounce-inch imbalance? I know machine shops can balance the whole assembly, but doing just the flywheel requires special equipment.

By-the-way, Ford balanced all the components separately, then assembled them. That is why you can buy (or should I say, could have bought) the proper flywheel separately and just installed it without rebalancing the engine.

I researched this for 1963-65 Fairlane rear station wagons which use 10x2½" drums. Current replacements are Raybestos 1639, ACDelco 18B455, and NAPA 6401130. I can't tell you for sure, but the same drums are probably used by all three brands. These are finned, not like OEM, but are better than OEM. Prices vary wildly. I got a set at RockAuto.com. They have a closeout sale of $44.79 (15 left), or regular inventory of $73.79. I bought the closeout. The closeout is from a warehouse they are liquidating. 30-day warranty only. Mine were fine. One box was water damaged (old damage), and the outer surface had some surface rust from the damp box. The other was perfect. Your choice.

The center thickness (not to be confused with the center hole size which is correct) is more than the OEM by about .15", so if you don't change your rear axle studs there will be no threads outside the nut (stud end is flush with top of nut). If you want the stud sticking out of the nut by the original amount, then I recommend NAPA BK-6413204 studs. These are not like OEM in that they are silver-colored, but they work perfectly as replacements.

This is what I used on my 1963 Fairlane station wagon. When installed and wheels/tires, and covers put on, you can't see the changes and the drums are better than OEM with the 2½" linings.

HiPo flex-plates have 30.4 oz. in. imbalance. Standard 289 flex-plates have 28.2 oz. in. imbalance. That is why they have different part numbers. If any one has a HiPo flex-plate, I am in need of one for a genuine 65 Fairlane HiPo automatic.

The exhaust manifolds were on the engine when painted. They were not painted (why waste the paint?), but paint overspray from painting the engine was on the bolts and manifolds next to the heads. I have verified this on many engines. The manifolds were often specific to the car. Mustangs and Fairlanes were the same, but the Galaxie, Falcon, and Comet had different driver's side manifolds. This means the engine was specific to a car model when it was painted.

Ford TSB, section 9303, Article #7 dated 1/14/63, states in part, "New fuel pumps for the subject engines [221/260], to reduce objectionable noise levels, became effective in production approximately October, 1962 and are available for service. These fuel pumps may be identified by the letter 'X' cast on the diaphragm pull rod tower." The part number was C3AZ-9350-H.

The 289 HiPo was not listed in the application because it would be about another month before that engine became available. All the 1963-64 289 HiPos used the fuel pumps with the X. The X had nothing to do with high performance. All engines used the same pump. It had one spring under the lever. They were the screw-together-type.

I know in the Fairlane the 3.89 was standard with options for 3.50 and 4.11. (65 Fairlane HiPo automatics were standard with 3.50.) Probably the same for the Mustang.

Engine tag had to have been put on the engine between the block painting and the hot test, which means Ford knew what vehicle the engine was going to go in. In 1964, the tag was installed under the temperature sender. Neither the tag or temperature sender were painted. Since the tag was not masked, the engine was painted first. And since Ford would not remove the temperature sender to install the tag, the tag had to be on the engine during hot test. Although the tag was located in a different place in 1965, I doubt Ford changed when the tag was installed. All this is just an educated guess. If my sources come up with something else, will post.

According to my Ford Master Parts Catalog revised October 1967, the 1965 Fairlane with 289 HiPo and 1966 Mustang with 289 HiPo got the "C" servo cover. The 1967 Mustang K-code is not mentioned as getting the "C" servo. I would check your tag number. If it is PEE-K, I would stick with what you have if it looks like the transmission has never been rebuilt.