Posts by bobmannel

There should be a number stamped on a boss just above where the equalizer bar engine stud is located. The boss is machined flat (vertical) and the number is stamped there. Would appreciate knowing what it is.

What is a pinch weld?

I was not at Columbus, so missed seeing it. There is no explanation that I have for the timing marks. I wonder if it was rebuilt and someone got the outer ring on wrong? In general, I have always considered the C7ZE and C8ZE as service replacement parts. All the 1967 HiPos I have seen or heard about have the C5OE damper. Was there a date code on the C7ZE damper. Happen to get the name of the vendor? Be nice to get some pictures.

Now the question is, can standard arms be modified with the dimple so that a standard pump can be rebuilt as a HiPo pump? Ford serviced the 1963-64 fuel pumps with the HiPo lower spring sometime in 1965. From what I have seen, the HiPo spring was red (Ford books indicated blue). The 1963-64 springs were brown. The good news is that since Ford service the older springs with the HiPo, it also means the older springs are close enough in specs to be used as a HiPo spring. So, if a dimple could be stamped in the arm and a spring from a 1963-64 pump added, you would have a functionally identical fuel pump to the HiPo. It might not be as nice as having an original, but it is the next best thing. Be a good project?

C4AE-6375-B is a 1965 289 2V/4V flex-plate

PCS-Y is a 1966 Mustang 200 6-cylinder C4 automatic tag. The 20006A is actually 200 (6-cylinder) and 06A for January 1966. The 703 is an internal plant code for this transmission (doesn't mean anything outside the plant).

Tom sent me an email on this. It's a first for me. Never seen one. It does look vintage (deteriorating rubber). It does have an oval "Ford" marking. Manufacturer is in stamping and casting (SD). Timing markings are typical of the replacement. Date code is probably C8 (March 1968).

I have never documented the replacement dampers for date codes, so I wonder if the step types have had post-1968 dates. This one suggests that early replacements still might have used the smooth outer ring.

Might want to start looking at date codes of any C8ZE-A damper found.

There is a pink resistance wire between the ignition switch and the firewall plug. This wire should be bypassed. That will provide 12volts to the Ignitor with the Ignition switch in the ON position. In the ACC position, the Ignitor gets no voltage.

There is no practical reason to use the Ignitor 2 system with a standard coil. The Ignitor 2 detects the saturation of the coil by current flow and limits the current flow upon saturation so that a low resistance coil does not overheat at low rpm. There is plenty of resistance in a standard coil that current limiting is not necessary. It won't hurt anything to use it, but the standard Ignitor would do as well. To really capitalize on the Ignitor 2 advantage, a low resistance coils should be used. The only one that looks like the yellow top is the one used with original transistorized ignition in the 1960s. It was about ½" longer, but otherwise appeared the same. It is a super low resistance coil and needs the Ignitor 2's current limiting features. Other than that, you have to tolerate more modern-looking coils.

Gene, I might be able to help if no one else can. I maintain a website for my "Mustang & Ford Small Block V8" book at http://www.fordsmallblock.com. I can create a folder for your use. If you email me the picture as an attachment, I can upload the pictures to that directory. Then you can link from that directory. My space is not limitless, but I have a lot of room. Email me directly at bobmannel@charter.net if you would like to give this a try to see if it would work well. Biggest issue I see is probably a copyright issue with the use of the pictures. Most people will agree if asked.

This is a December 1963 block, which is the earlier part of 1964 production. All confirmed production HiPo blocks have had a sequential number on the boss above the equalizer bar pivot stud.

I have never seen the center bolt on a production 289.

Yes. It is sometimes called a roll pin, or a spring pin, or a split pin.

This is an old post, but I just saw it so will add my two sense. I have found the plating to be overdone. Original carb metal parts were more sedate in color. But, on this carb, the big problem is the presense of the idle compensator valve on the back of the air horn. This says "CLONE" in capital letters. There was never an idle compensator valve on a HiPo carburetor. But, Galaxie 4100 Autolites used then extensively.

Order the normal way as someone in the US, but not in Tennessee. In the comments section as you go through just mentioned we discussed Australia shipping and you agree to the shipping costs. I will make the adjustment when I process your credit card (it is manually done, not automatical). You will get a confirmation from me via email as to the total charge to your card.

First, thanks for the orders. A bit of a spike the last few days, which is very helpful.

Yes, I do ship to Australia, but it is expensive ($38.95). It must go by Air Mail (6-10 days). I charge only what it costs me.

Convention wisdom in publishing is that you double the cost of creating and print a book for the wholesale price, then double that again for the retail price. My book cost me $15 to create and publish -- that is materials and printing, and does not include the 17 years of labor. So the book should retail for $60. That would never work, so I used $50. But, that would mean selling wholesale for $25. Unfortunately, the $10 I would make per book on such a low volume would be completely eaten away by business expenses. And that is the problem with amazon.com. They used to let me sell by special order with a 20% discount to them. Now they are asking for much more.

Bottom line, it is very difficult to put together a book like this and make it profitable (which the IRS eventually requires to deduct business expenses). That is why you don't often see books like this one. It's just the way things are.

Just as information, amazon.com was listing my book as unavailable. It is available, but not through amazon.com. They changed their policies for special orders and have made it impossible for me to sell through them and not lose money. I have asked amazon.com to remove my book from their website so as not to mislead customers into thinking the book is out-of-print. If you would like one, order through my website at http://www.fordsmallblock.com. It is the best price you can find outside of a used one. Sales have not been as strong as I had hoped, so there will only be one printing. When they are all gone (it will probably be a while), no more will be printed, but the website will remain to support the book. Bob Mannel (author)

The larger flywheel (168/164 tooth) also takes a different starter motor.

Any idea of the date code on the Galaxie or on the 289?

A 1965 Mustang C-code 289 with 4-speed would have a tag number of 550-J.

On at least some reproduction manifolds, some grinding is needed to gain clearance for a spark plug socket. It can be close of the originals as well, but I have never had a problem if the original is tightened in a position for maximum clearance from the socket. There is only a little room for adjustment, but it is enough to make the difference between just bearing enough clearance and enough clearance.