Posts by SixfiveGT

I am finishing up the restoration of my 65 K and ready to install the engine. I have been looking for NOS exhaust parts and found a A-C6ZA-5246-G H-pipe which I believe is a Ford Service part. I know I can buy a repop for around $65.00 but would like the NOS part. I was able to check this part and found it has the part number stamped at the very end of the right pipe. Does anyone have any idea what would be a reasonable price (fair to both parties) to pay for this part? Any input would be appreciated.

Not to start a battle... but as someone who is relatively new to this forum I have to ask this question... here we have a "K" car that is only a "K" by serial number. Anything that made it a "K" is now long gone. If someone buys this shell and is foolish enough to try and rebuild it..... do we really have a "K" car? Almost nothing of the original sheet metal will be left, the engine, trans and rear are gone how would this group classify this car if it were to be rebuilt?

Now to ask the next logical question... someone has a complete drive train from a wrecked "K" and goes to all the trouble to find a rust free original sheet metal Ford shell then adds everything that Ford would have had on a "K" car... how would that car be viewed by this group?... I know the response from most on this forum would be "It's only a rebody". But is this car any more a clone than if this ebay car were to be restored? I remember Shelby's "continuation cars" were essentially rebodies but are still considered real.

I understand the ethical questions...especially how the car is presented.. but if Ford Factory originality is the only criteria i'm afraid that there would be very few "K's" that could past muster as 100% original.

So this was just a few thoughts that I had as I read this thread.... As I said in the begining I don't want to start any battles... just wanted to share a few musings..

I forgot to mention in my last post that this product works well on a variety of metals, not just cast iron. It even does wonders on antique wood (if you happen to into antique furniture). Once you apply the product and it has dried, buff the part with a clean rag and you will be amazed at the shine;

Depending on the part I have found that a product called "Kramer's Best Antique Restorer" works great. This stuff is not cheap but if it saves and expensive "K" part it well worth the money. I have used it on cast iron parts such as transmissions,disc brake calipers, clutch rods etc. I glass bead the part then wipe on the Kramers. This product does two things one it soaks into to pores of the metal and gives the part the appearance of being newly cast just like the original. You may have to do several applications but unlike paint it won't flake or discolor. Try this web site for more information http://www.kramerize.com/products.htm

This product was originally developed to help restore antique cast iron toys and furniture. Good luck hope this helps

Another possibility may be that your flasher has gone bad. I had the same problem a month ago and my car had the same symptoms. If Fred's suggetsion doesn't work I would suggest replacing the flasher unit. The flasher is located under the dash next to the glove compartment. When purchasing a new flasher be sure to specify that it is for your fourways (I believe that the internals are different to accomodate flashing all four lights at the same time) Good Luck hope this may help.

Bramick:

I have run into this problem several times in the past and each time it turned out to be the resistor pack located on the heater box. that's the red block with the three terminals that is connected to the heater switch on the dash located under the glove box. First try taking the connector off the resistor and clean the contacts replace the plug and make sure the connections are tight if the heater motor still doesn't work do an ohm meter check to see if you have an open resistor. If the resistor is bad it is a simple replacement. Hope this helps

Amen to that....

Thanks 5FO9C I will give him a try...

Some where in the distant past someone lost the engine ID tag for my HP 289... does any know if these tags are reproduced and if so where can I purchase one. What information do I need to supply to get one that is close. I know a repro my take away from its originality but to me it looks naked without one.

Being new to this forum I just read this thread.... so I don't know if anyone is still interested in yellow top coils. I have found that the yellow used by most repro houses isn't quite right and to get a good yellow coil can be expensive. Through a lot of searching I found a yellow paint that is so close to original that you have to look at least twice to tell that it isn't Ford and then you may not really be sure... Go to your nearest Cat dealer and ask for CAT yellow 4C-4200. you can make a reasonable looking coil for not much money...

[Thanks to both of you (Kar-nut and 5F09C for the pics and the additional info. from everything that you have provided it appears my tag is original even without the "G"]

there is a decimal point error in my last post the total number of miles driven should have read 256 Billion miles not the the 2.56 that my fat fingers typed.

I’m new to this forum and just read the comments here about Mustang gas tank fires. I still have the video of the program that Bryant Gumble did on “Mustang’s dirty Secret” In that program at lot of hysteria was promoted about how dangerous these cars are. But if you do some math using the numbers from the program you would get the following;

• The program states that there were 30 fatalities in Mustang fire related accidents

• Ok so if we accept that number as accurate…. what is the probability of your Mustang’s gas tank catching fire?

• Using production figures from the “Standard Catalog of Mustang” by Brad Bowling ( and I should note here that the only Mustangs in question were built from April 1964 to the end of the 1970 model year, In 1971 ford changed the design that located the tank as a separate item protected by a full trunk floor)

• Production during this period amounted 2,566,839 cars

• Let us assume that those cars traveled an average of 100,000 miles (I know some didn’t and some have gone 200000 plus miles) for the sake of this scenario let’s say 100,000 miles was the average. That would mean that on average vintage Mustangs have traveled 2.56 Billion miles Yes that is with a “B”

• So with 30 fatalities being attributed to gas tank fires.

• That would mean that your changes of being hurt would be 1 in 8.6 Billion

• Being conservative….. let’s say (and Gumble’s program did) that a million Mustangs of this vintage are still on the road. If we again use the 100,000 mile figure and look at the last 43 years and still use the 30 fatality number your chances of being hurt in a fire are 1 in 1.43 Billion.

I guess from this I would say….. your chances of being hurt in a gas tank fire are as likely as it would be that you would be struck by lightning on your birthday at noon!

Glad to see this sad chapter come to a good end. This fighting wasn't in the best interest of the hobby. Nice that cooler heads finally prevailed.

My thanks to each of you who responded with data plate information. Just goes to show that there are no absolutes when it comes to documenting a Mustang's originality.... especially if you are not fortunate enough to have all the original paperwork. My 30 year restoration has taken a number of funny turns but with each mystery I have learned a lot from good folks like you.

Thanks for the information, now that you mention it I do recall that the color of the data tag indicated type of paint as you mentioned. It would be nice to know if the "G" was on all tags, just some of the tags, or was a running change that Ford is so noted for. Since my tag doesn't have the "G" and it was a late 1965 production car maybe it was a running change, or Ford may have used different suppliers for the tags. Just another Mustang mystery!

I'm new to this forum and just read the question about original data tag markings. A number of responses indicated that the letter "g" should be found on the lower right of the tag. My Kar was built in San Jose on July 13 1965 and I am the second owner (past 30 years) and my tag does not have the "g". My question... was the "g" on all tags or was it specific to certain plants. I believe for example the San Jose plant tags were gray (mine is) while Dearborn and Metuchen cars were black. Since I am the second owner I have every reason to believe this is an original tag. Can anyone shed more light on this interesting question.