Posts by SixfiveGT

Based on a lot of the available information it would seem to me that if you have a'66 low profile Rally-Pac you can be selective about its color, (black or not). However, there seems to be strong evidence that says, if you have a high profile early build date car that the Rally-Pac should be black. The gray area (pardon the pun) seems to be what color is correct, black or color keyed, on very late '65 cars that have the low profile unit installed in GT's.(remember the low profile RP was introduced so that the 5 gauge cluster would not be obstructed by the Pac although there are the early exceptions where a GT may have received a High profile unit) One responder stated that he prefered that if the car had a pony interior that the RP should be painted to match the interior. I tend to agree and don't see where that should pose a problem in that most anything could have been done for a customer by the dealer...including painting the RP. I also go back to Ford's own advertising of the time that touted the Mustang as "A car to be designed by you!) Personally I decided that my K (a late(July)San Jose car) with a white pony interior needed a white low profile Rally-Pac just because it looks better to me (and that's what I did) and in the end isn't it really about what you want? Just some thoughts!

Just one additional comment.... while doing some more research for my K I was going through the Mustang Recognition Guide written by the editors of Mustang Monthly Magazine (Larry Dobbs, Donald Farr, Jerry Heasley and Rick Kopec)(copywrite date 1981). I consider this to be one of the better Mustang guides. On page 74 they devote quite a lot of space to describing the differences between the 65 and 66 rally pacs. They wrote "All, early style Rally-Pacs were painted camera case black, while the low-profile version used in all '66 Mustangs may be either black, or color keyed to the steering column." Just wanted to share this additional piece of information. I realize the reference book that I have quoted from is nearly 30 years old and newer more accurate information may have surfaced since its publication. But it seems to support the previous information that I found in the early brochures that I have. Again, I don't know if this really helps but wanted to pass the information along.

I have a number of original Mustang brochures from 1964 (Mustangs shown with other 1964 Fords) early and late 1965 Mustang only brochures and all of them show black rally pac's both in the High and low profile versions. (each brochure shows the rally pac in a red interior) This would lead me to believe that if you ordered a rally pac it most likely would have been black whether it came from the factory or installed by a dealer. In an original 1966 brochure that I have it shows a color keyed rally pac (in a white interior). So sometime just prior to the 66 change over Ford must have started to color key these units on a standard basis.... I seem to remember that you had to special order a color keyed rally pac in 65 otherwise it was black....but as one gets older the memory isn't as sharp as it use to be, so I could be wrong. This probably doesn't help much other than maybe cause additional confusion and for that I apologize...

Be careful of the repro blanks to be sure the blank is correct before cutting. What I have found with these key blanks is that they often do not have the horizontal groove in the flat face of the key. (this groove runs parallel to the cut teeth on the key)I have had to groove the bank to make it work... (a dremel will do this.... but it is a pain and doesn't look quite right) I should state that I am talking about blanks that I have received for 65-66 applications from several different sources. If anyone knows where I can get the proper blanks I would appreciate that info.. so for the time being I am still using my well worn 45 year old keys.

I don't want to start anything here... but I had to at least respond to bigal and his comment about Pony Carb's "knock offs"... I suppose one would have to define the term knock off in order to have this discussion... and that definition would play a large role as to whether or not what Pony Carb does falls under that definition.

I had Jon do a carb for me... I had a date correct Autolite 4100 with 1.12 venturi's but it had an automatic choke. The carb was in very good condition to begin with so I had Jon do a concours resto and HiPo conversion for my car. Jon did an excellent job of modifying the carb for the manual choke and he paid a lot of attention to the details like removing the hot idle compensator among other things.

To me a "knock off" is something that is completely bogus... In this case we have a genuine Autolite carb that has been....shall we say enhanced... My question is since it is a real Autolite 4100 and it does the same job the original did (maybe better) is it a sin if we use that on our cars?....

I know that many of you are real purists and will cringe at that statment (and there is nothing wrong with that), I would like to be as exacting as well, but sometimes reality dictates that you may have to settle for something that is as close to real as you can get because you may not able to get exactly what you want.

As I said I don't want to start anything, just a few observations and comments...

Thanks for the input.. I missed the Mustang Monthly article you referenced and went back to look at my last few issues... I see the comment you are refering to.. I made one of the classic errors, when I disassembled my car for its repaint I failed to note whether or not the bolts were painted. By the time I even gave it a thought I had already run them through a tumbler... They look great but as the reassembly contiunes they will be painted. thanks again

This is probably a dumb question but were the bolt heads on the door hinges natural or painted the body color? small detail but I can't find any discussion or written material about this anywhere. I think they should be body color but that is only a guess, can anyone help.

If my memory serves me right the early GT emblems were made from a ceramic material called cloisone on a pot metal base for the most of the 65 model run. I'm not sure when the change over occured but Ford then starting using a plastic based material for 1966. In my opinion the early 65 GT emblems were much nicer.

It is WimbelDon White with a D... at least that what the color charts read. hope this helps

Just a question about the correct length of the hose strap. I have an original July 65 San Jose K and the hose strap is 3/4" x 9 1/4". My strap is of course worn and cracking but it doesn't seem to be a cutting from a tire casing. It is rubber coated with what appears to be white cording and very thin about 3/16", nothing that would make me think it came from a tire. does anyone know for sure just how these were made. I'd like to replace mine but like most of you would like it to be as close to original as possible.

Thanks to all of you for your input.... how crosseyed would the judges be if I used this bell on my K?

This may be a dumb question ... I have two six bolt bell housings one is cast iron the other is aluminum. The aluminum bell has a part number C_0A-6394-A (can't read the second digit, bell was scraped in that area and made that part of the number unreadable. (bell is in good shape) I can't find anything on the cast iron bell other that the ford logo in an oval just above where the starter mounts. The dumb question, did the HiPo units use both types of bells or just one. I know that I really need the second digit to positively identify the bell but is there anyone willing to give it a shot and tell me what they think this aluminum bell originally fit.

You are correct when you said it came with the 65 change over, however some of the early 65's (cars built in August 64) might not have the cable. My August 28 1964 Dearborn A code convertible does not have the cable.

The coil on my July 1965 San Jose K is mounted on the passenger side head behind the dipstick as well. I am the second owner so it may not be correct but that is how it came when I bought it 32 years ago.

I think this individual is refering to cars that were to be sold in California in 1966 when their smog regulations went into effect. I have a set of A code heads from a 1966 San Jose car that were thermactor equipped. I don't know if the K code heads of that period are similar.

I first used it on my A code exhaust manifolds and was very pleased with the results. This led me to try it on other metal castings and was very suprised on how well it worked. Even when surface rust reappeared I was oftern able to just use a cloth to remove the offending rust and regain the shine. hope this helps

Just to add my two cents for what it's worth, I purchased an NOS H-pipe not long ago, although it was in decent shape( read little to no rust) it wasn't long after I put in on the car it showed signs of suface rust... I use a product sold by Eastwood company called "Calyx" This product was designed to brighten up rusted exhaust manifolds but I found that it works great to bring back the natural steel luster of the H-pipe. I use a rubber glove and a tooth brush to apply the material. I use a gloved finger to apply the calyx to the general area, I then use the tooth brush to work into the pores of the metal and finish it off by using a soft cloth to buff to a nice natural shine. I found that this works great on other natural cast parts such as spindles,disc brake calipers, transmission cases tie rods etc (you get the picture) This is great to apply just before a show and you would be suprised how easy it is. While it is some what expensive, I would suggest that you give it a try... a small amount of this stuff goes a long way, and I think you will be very pleased with the results.

Just to add my two cents.... my San Jose K built July 13 1965 has plastic swithces which sorta backs up what Brant said. I am the second owner last 32 years so I believe that they should be original.(mine are white plastic). I'm just completing up a total ground restoration this year and just finished putting those switches in not too long ago.

Thanks Fred.... I took your advise and bought the part. I did a trial fit today with the engine still on the stand and it bolts up just like Ford intended.... Thanks again to everyone for their input.

Thanks for the input....This part is almost like new... no rust the metal still has a shine to it....Don't know where it was stored but it must have been very dry... the seller is asking $350 which is in the range you suggested.