Posts by SixfiveGT

Thank you for the information.... I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

I know that there has been a lot of discussion about fuel pumps on this site so I am hoping that someone can help me identify a pump that I have and perhaps offer an opinion as to whether or not it is worth rebuilding.(depending on what it is supposed to fit) The pump in question is a button top unit that has cast in the left side the name "CAR BURE TER made in Canada" under the name... on the right side the casting is marked 0-1719 a date code of 3F8A and 4567S stamped into the mounting flange also the lever arm is stamped 177-220. I know that this isn't a HiPo pump... just wondering what it originally fit. Most of the pumps of this style generally had "made in USA" cast into the housing so this one has piqued my curiosity. can anyone help?

Given the weight of the clubs(read that to mean expertise) that have hit me on the head.... I guess I must stand corrected as far as what Ford did in the begining as far as exhaust gaskets are concerned.... and learned something in the process....

I still stand by my statement that all of the engines that I have had the opportunity to disassemble all had exhaust gaskets. (as you have pointed out perhaps not correct. Felpro and a variety of other gasket makers seem to do a good business selling this gasket... perhaps this wasn't one of Ford's better ideas.... machining two surfaces flat certainly can make for a good seal in the begining but over time casting shift, heat and other factors can play a roll in the seal quality.... Given that the author of this tread has a 100K plus engine that may or may not be ready for a rebuild and assuming it is the manifold that is leaking...the least expensive fix at this point in time would be to use one of the available gaskets.

I do admit when I am wrong and it seems this is one of those times..sorry for the confusion and I consider this a learning moment...

I will have to respectfully disagree with Charles about there not being an exhaust gasket between the head and the exhaust manifold every 260,289, and 302 that I have ever disassembled has had an exhaust gasket. Felpro gasket kit MS90000 has both the donut and exhaust manifold gaskets included in the box for around $15.00 and can be purchased at most any good auto parts store. As far as getting the bolts out of the manifold...good luck... I would suggest a lot of WD40 and time.

Mike: I used comp cams 1442-16 roller tip rockers and they work just fine under a stock valve cover. I used a solid lifter cam with with a .477/.477 lift...hope this helps

Shane: I have a July 65 San Jose car with a similar interior and the carpet in that was a medium blue that closely matched the color of the dash pad....

Looking at Iowa's spring removal tool made me cringe a little as I thought about my spring replacement experience. When I replaced the spings in my K-GT I used what was supposed to be a quality spring compressor manufactured by KD. it was an internal unit with the hooks that grab the coils both top and bottom and has a threaded center rod. Removing the springs was fairly easy, however installing new GT springs with their higher rates turned out to be a small nightmare. The KD compressor would slip on the coils and if I hadn't been very careful to stay out of the line of fire, I could have been hurt when the compressor slipped an the spring came flying out. (when it let lose it sounded like an explosion) not an experience I ever care to repeat.... but as many of you have probably already discovered there are few manufacturers of internal coil spring compressors that can be used easily on early Mustang suspension systems. I ended up using a similar unit made by snap-on. The first spring went in great but when I tried the second side the center threaded bolt threads stripped, leaving me with no way to either compress or release the spring. Lucky for me the spring was in place and I was able to use a floor jack under the lower control arm to compress the spring enough to allow me to remove the compressor. I wish that someone a lot smarter than me could come up with a better system and design. Even the one pictured in the Ford manual looks like it would be difficult to use. After my little adventure I don't envy anyone who has to replace the front suspension in a Mustang especially the coils.

Tony Gregory in his book "The 289 High Performance Mustang" talks about two styles of pistons for the 289. One was a dished piston used on the 2bbl 289 that yielded 8 1/2 : 1 compression. The standard 225 hp 4bbl engine had a flat top piston with four small valve relief eyebrows that yielded 10 1/2 : 1 compression on early HP engines and 10 : 1 on later versions (the difference was due to the size of the combustion chamber on early vs late... Gregory goes on to state that this was the same piston used in the K. Gregory suggests that if you can't reuse your old pistons that TRW, Federal Mogul, or Power forged Series L2482F would be a reasonable substitute. Just as a sidebar.. I would assume that you would do a piston to valve clearance test as part of the engine reassembly just to be sure that any set up you used would not create a "fatal" condition.

Bob.... there is quite a discussion of this very topic if you look in the restoration section under Stamping ink.... a lot of information there.

Dave.... just to be sure... you had the stamp made from the sample you posted earlier ? I think the results look good... but instead of more yellow wouldn't a little more red be closer? just a thought and I won't vouch for my color sense either... nice job

Yes I had the opportunity to speak to the original owner as I mentioned in my original post....

When we put the car on the rotisserie to finish the media blasting all we found was black paint that extended from the rocker panel pinch welds to an area just under transmission tunnel... similar to what one would have expected for red primer. the area under the tunnel had surface corrosion and no paint or primer. I have to admit that I did not do the media blasting so I did not see if there might have been something else under the black.... The person who did do the blasting told me that he didn't see anything else.

Since most of you who regulaly contribute to this site have a lot more experience than I... I must have missed something when we did the car.... the only thing that makes me a little sad is that I duplicated what I found...ie black undercarriage...guess it's a good thing I'm not entering any competitions... just enjoying the car. Sorry if I may have misled anyone, just wanted to share my particular experience.

My July 65 K Coupe had black primer on the under carriage as well.(I am the second owner and have had the car for 33 years. I talked to the original owner who said the only thing done to the car before I purchased it was it had been repainted because the California sun had bleached the Silver blue paint....at that time no work was done on the undercarriage) When I did a ground up restoration on the car last year I could not find any evidence of red oxide primer (only black) any where. The black primer was similar in color shade to the firewall and engine compartment.... hope this helps

Dave:

Thank you for the reply and all your effort..... I was able to download the document and print out a copy. The only thing that I am concerned about is the fact the document may have grown in the transcription process. The copy that I was to print out measures

2 14/16" X 1 1/8".... the question now... is that the correct size? I do appreciate your sharing this.

I see what you mean about the fonts.... I have an original Autolite spark plug box from 1965 and I see where the "U" and the "O" have a cropped appearance in the corners vs the ebay stamp that are more rounded. That is assuming that the Autolite logo was fairly standard among its various products.... of course there could be variations even within a product line.. But this now begs the question that Shane asked earlier.. where can we get a reasonable repoduction stamp to do what we want?

I agree with you that the engineering numbers are not ink stamped... the only thing that I have found in my research indicates that ink stamp should be orange in color and should read C5AF-1300-D for a 65 unit or C6AF-1300-D for a 66-67 unit. The actual stamp would read AUTOLITE on top with 15V 42A C5AF-1300-D NEG appearing below the Autolite name. That is if my research is accurate.

Charles....I've been doing a little more research since I first ask the ink color question earlier in this thread... and this is some of what I have found. In Tony Gregory's book he discusses the fact that HiPo alternators received a different engineering number for the reasons you stated that these alternators were assembled as a unit and had a larger pulley. The engineering number for a 65 was C5AF-1300-D and that both 66 and 67 units had a C6AF-1300-D number and as you stated the ink stamp was orange. He makes the distinction in that there were different alternators available during this period. In doing more research I discovered that there was a 38 amp unit that had a purple ink stamp the 42 amp unit (that was specified for the HiPo) with an orange stamp and a 55 amp unit that had a Burgandy ink stamp. Gregory states that the 55 amp unit was not used for the HiPo. So I guess for a K resto to be correct you would need a 42 amp orange ink stamped alternator with the correct engineering number. To further complicate the issue Gregory states that these alternators had two different Part #'s one for before April 1, 1965(C5AF-10344-C)and one for After April 1,(C5AF-10A352-H) for all cars from 65-67.

Amazing what you can find with a little digging....This exercise was fun for me and I learned a lot more about my K in the process. (Of course I have to be careful as all this data that I found may not actually be 100% correct) Just thought I would share the information that I have come across with the hope that maybe someone with more knowledge than I would be able to shed more light on the accuracy of this information. (sorry to be so long winded)

A gentleman from New Jersey (Dean Hanscom) has a stamp for the 289 HiPo alternator. You can use the following link to see what he has. I purchased the stamp and it arrive the other day I haven't used it yet as I have been trying to determine the best method of stamping and what ink or paint to use. (see the above suggestions from Jeff) (the basic stamp looks good but as of right now I can't tell you how it will look on the alternator.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…WNA%3AUS%3A1123

42 amp (was what came with the car)

Jeff... Thanks for the suggestion... may seem dumb but I never gave paint a thought... I'll give it a try and let you know how I make out. The procedure you outlined makes perfect sense...Just one more question... is orange the correct color?

Does anyone know what type of ink and color (I believe it was orange) was used to stamp the Autolite logo on a alternator and if so where can it be purchased?