Posts by SixfiveGT

Ditto for me as well

with respect to Zray's comment about recovering one's investment in a K coupe let alone a convertible or fastback... having just finished a K coupe I can attest to the fact that I will never recover the investment I have in the car... but I knew that going in... I hope that anyone who does a restoration of this type of car fully understands that even with the rarity of a "K" that most will never attain the value of a similar or later year Shelby or some of the other more desirable Mustang models like a Boss 302 or 429.

I did my car for purely nostalgic reasons. In 1965 I ordered a brand new HiPo GT coupe and waited just over 8 weeks for the car to arrive.. but fate was to play a hand and the day the car arrived I received my draft notice.... Uncle Sam wanted me and I knew that as an E1 in the army I couldn't afford to pay for a car that had sticker price of just over $3500.(a lot of money in 1965) Thankfully the dealer understood and I didn't have to take delivery of the car. In 1978 I had the opportunity to buy the coupe that I have now but like most "K's" it had been rode hard and put away wet. It took me another 33 years to finally finish a full ground up restoration...you know things like family, homes,college etc delayed getting the car done. But this past summer I was finally able to get the "brand new" car I missed out on in 1965. I admit I could have bought a very nicely optioned 2010 GT for what I have in this car... but it wouldn't have been the same and I wouldn't change a thing. I did it for the satisfaction, my wife and son helped with the restoration and I have memories that I will forever cherish. The car will go to my son when the time is right so that alone says no monetary recovery... even if he didn't want the car (and he does) I did it for me.... So having said all that.. I hope that anyone who does one of these cars does it for the love of the car and with the full knowledge that full investment recovery will probably never happen.

I'm not sure why Robert's thread was locked and I did not see the posting that was deleted... however, I thought that the discourse had been pretty civil up to the point where it was locked... unlike what may be happening here. While I don't agree with some of his comments, Robert's concerns should have been taken as constructive criticism. I think we all recognize that there is always room for improvement and he deserved to be heard. It is clear that Robert has become frustrated. Some simple updated posts by the site owners as to the current status of the registry data could go a long way to help defuse building frustration some may have because they don't know what is happening... even if that update is to say We have your information and working to add your data as soon as we can...

With that said, I hope that everyone, in the spirit of the season, will just wish everyone else a Happy Holiday Season... and perhaps this concern can be better addressed in the New Year... Best Wishes to Everyone!

For me this site has been a great resource for information concerning the various quirks associated with "K" cars. There have been several posts that saved me a lot of time, money and aggravation, as well as introduced me to some really nice people that have been a great help (Fred Ballard for example with his tireless efforts to get those pesky fuel pumps rebuilt comes to mind) I don't really agree that this has become a baby ebay.. while yes parts are bought and sold on this site from my perspective it has been the valuable information that has been shared that has been its strong suit... As far as the registry is concerned I agree that perhaps it could have been handled better. Perhaps someone would want to step up and take on the major responsibility of keeping it updated....(I for one understand the difficulties associated with that responsibility and in no way would I want to do it).... so as they say " he with out sin cast the first stone". It might be the time for the keepers of the registry to ask for help... maybe there is a way that the load could be shared and not burden just one or two individuals. From that perspective I would be willing to help where I could... I have to believe that with so many ardent K owners that there has to be others willing to do the same.... Just some food for thought... I bet someone else probably has an even better idea.... Anyway.. Let me wish all the members of this Forum... A Very Happy Holiday Season!

If the stories are to be believed the "millionth" Mustang wasn't built until 1966 and it was a convertible that was given to Captain Tucker(an airline pilot) who managed to buy Mustang #1 from a Canadian dealer. The Millionth Mustang was given to Tucker by Ford in exchange for this car so that they could recover it and save it for history(this car was never supposed to be sold but the dealer didn't know that).... that car(#1) is now in the Henry Ford Museum. If this is true (and it is well documented) the GT package certainly was not introduced to commerate the event of building that car. Just some thoughts that have no bearing on the actual build date of the first GT

Damon:

The information I have comes from the Virgina Mustang Blog if you will send me your email I will forward the email information they sent me. There are some really good photos of the rebuilding process. It seems that they used a used a company called Maple Hill Restoration to do the work; Their contact information is:

Jeremy Turner

13283 Timber Way

Broadway, VA 22815

Ph 540-896-9024

email turnerjt63@comcast.net

hope this helps

Bob

I see that VA Mustang is offering a rebuilt proportioning valve.. didn't see a price but it may be worth a lookCan't spell

Rick:

Glad I was able to be of some assistance....again good luck with your project

I have two 65's one early one late... the early car (October 64) the vent wing hits mirrors .. the late car( july 65) the vent wing did not hit the mirrors... when I restored the car I had to replace the door and used a template from VA mustangs to install the new mirrors I purchased.(using the template allows the vent wings to open) you may also want to check out the thread that discusses the Visibility group option for more discussion on this topic.

6hypo5conv:

I sent you a PM... let me know if that would be Ok. As I mentioned the template is over 16" long and 11" wide making it difficult to scan or post.

They say necessity is the mother of invention.. and where there's a will there's away... Well so much for the cliches... this looks at lot better... job well done.. and I think you will be happier in the long run... (hmmm... a piece of pipe.... I'll have to remember that)

Amen!!

Last year I purchased the "show Quality" remote mirrors ER200 and ER202 from Virginia Classic Mustangs and a very nice template was included to properly mount them. I still have the template and have taken the following measurements from it if it will help. Please Keep in mind the following measurements are as close as I can get but are to be considered Approximate

Using the base gasket as a guide go the rear of the vent window where the door is notched for the vent frame. measure 1 3/8" outward to the valley area on the top of the door, using a magic marker place a dot at that spot then measure 3/8" forward and make a smal "x" with the marker. Place the gasket on the door with the dot in the center of the largest (or 1st hole in the gasket; this is the hole that the remote cable will slipped into.From the leading edge of the gasket measure the distance to the front edge of the door. That distance should be 11 1/2" note: some gaskets may not have these holes just an open area if the gasket is just open then the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole is 12 7/8") it is in this location that you drill a 7/16" hole for the cable.. The mirror also has two mounting screw holes that have to be drilled as well. measure from the center of the first hole back 1 3/8" to locate the center of the first mounting screw then measure back 1 5/8" to locate the center of the second mounting screw. you will have to check to be sure for the correct drill size but if memory serves me right it is an 1/8th" drill. but double check.

I would suggest that maybe someone a Virgina Mustang might be able to help. If not I hope that this at least gets you headed in the right direction.. BTW this location doesnot interfer with the vent window operation,

Steve:

Making a good loop does take some practice.. trying to put into words the exact method of bending is difficult... but I will give it a shot...and please if there is anyone else out there that can explain this better please jump in)... in general what I do is take a flexible measuring tape (I've used a cloth tape like women use in sewing to get an idea of how much tubing I will need (especially for the loop).. then I take measurements from the distribution block or the master cyliner to determine how long the straight section will be before the bend begins...I mark that distance with a magic marker on the tube..(be sure to allow for the distance the fittings will stick out of the mc or dist block) using that as a reference point I begin the bend working the bender down the tube... as the bend begins to take shape you will be able to continue to bend the tube by moving the bender down the tube to get the loop you need...I like to get at least a 360 degree loop before I change direction... some times that means turning a 90 degree bend at the base of the loop.. again careful measurements will be needed to determine where you should make the bends to go to the next location or to clear an obstruction.(it is always wise to mark these transition points with a marker on the tube (It sure is easier for me to do than to explain) I would suggest if you have some scrape tubing that you practice with the bender before trying to do this on the new tube... Hope that I haven't made this more confusing...

Steve:

I use an OEM model 27134 tubing bender(it is an adustable bender) and it works great for the type of loops you need to make. If you have an AutoZone parts store in your area you can pick one up there. otherwise you may have to go on line to the OEM tool site to find a local supplier. There are other mfgs out there that make good benders as well and other people on this site may have some other recommendations as well. (There are a number of good pictures of the tool if you type in OEM tubing Bender 27134 Autozone into your broswer) Good luck on your project

The loops in the brake lines are generally refered to as "Strain relief" Loops. your assumption that they were put there to compensate for movement is correct. The set up as you show in the pictures could lead to a cracking failure of the lines at the junction blocks or Master cylinder (or at the very least cause leaking at the fittings). As we all know the Mustang chassis is prone to some major flexing.(depending on how hard it is driven) While the space is limited I would strongly suggest that you include some sort of loop in each line..... just my opinion

I know that Fred is collecting pumps for another run.. (I just missed his last run which was several weeks ago. After I spoke with him I sent him one mine as seed to begin the process again. I"m not sure how many pumps he needs to make it worth while for him (he has a lot of work to do to get them right)as a result you may have to wait awhile. I have seen some of his work and it looks to be outstanding so it would be worth the wait... just my opinion. Also Fred monitors this forum and I wouldn't be suprised if you got a PM from him to discuss this..

Phil:

Jim is correct... "flat white" is the closest match.... should have mentioned that...

Phil:

I've used "Testor's" white model paint and model brush and use what is known as a "dry brush" application technique. This is where you dip the end of the brush in a small amount of paint (what I do is shake the paint bottle for about a minute.. remove the cap and use what paint remains in the cap to dip the brush).. then I essentially wipe the brush dry so only a very small amount of paint remains on the bristles... then using a very light touch gently wipe each letter... this will leave a light coating of paint. You will have to do several coats to get the effect you want. It is very easy to just apply the paint to the top of the letters. I have had good results on a number of handles... send me your email and I will send you photos of what I did. (still can't figure out how to post pictures on this thread) hope this helps

Thanks guys for the input... I was thinking that I would have it rebuilt but not sure who I should talk to and what the cost might be. If I remember correctly.... Fred, didn't you have access to a rebuilder and do you still do that sort of thing? (I know it must be time consuming and a pain)but if you still do rebuilding could you advise me as to the best approach and potential costs? Thanks