Posts by cobraboy

    Cheers fellas.

    Sorry I seem to be hijacking now.

    I dont really want to ship the dist out of the country if I can help it, so will plot a curve and see what I have.

    I got a set of springs for one of my other cars so I will try to find out where from.

    Mark

    Thanks very much. when my motor has loosened up a bit I will plot the curve.

    I asked as I do not think the distributor is as should be, as there is a lot of 'slack' in the return when the rotor arm is turned against the springs, and one of the springs is so loose it barely does anything.

    Cheers

    Mark

    Care to tell the Summit part number ?.

    Bit confused on the vac advance / retard movement that you had to fix.

    Surely the dual point does not have vac adv /ret.

    Please clarify the situation on that.

    Thanks, looks very interesting, any other parts to the kit or is that it ?

    How many wires are there, and what are the connections ?

    Cheers

    Mark

    Ok seems logical.

    I started her up again tonight and ran for another 20 mins at fast idle, all seems well.

    I hope to take the car for her annual ministry roadworthy test on Saturday morning, so keep your fingers crossed for me.

    Cheers

    Mark


    Edited by - cobraboy on 04/13/2011 15:23:54

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    what is your thinking in wanting to use a straight 30 wt. oil as opposed to a multi viscosity oil like a 5w-30 or a 10w-30 ?


    the multi viscosity oil will flow better while the motor is cold, which is when most of wear occurs.


    as far as the break-in additive goes, I would leave it in for no more than 250 to 500 miles, and try to get those miles driven in a short time period. Then be sure to change the filter when you change the oil.


    Many, if not all, break in additives contain graphite. It can make your oil filter much less effective (plugs it up) and should not be used when normal oil & filter changes intervals (3000+ miles) are employed.


    I don't think a break in additive is necessary. Just my subjective opinion. When my engine was overhauled 43,000 miles ago there was a liberal amount of assembly lube put on the cam and lifters. Otherwise, no additives in the oil.


    Z.


    p.s. nice looking engine by the way.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/11/2011 20:04:41

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    Thanks

    My reasoning for the 30 wt oil is that it is a special running in oil to help the piston rings bed in properly. I would leave this in for only 500 miles, then put in a multigrade.

    I wondered if having break in lube in the 30 wt would be counterproductive making the oil too slippy for the rings to bed in ?.

    So far I have only run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes in the garage, and after doing the hot lash and the timing all seems good. I have changed the oil filter as I used graphite assembly past in certain locations.

    Thanks all, be interested to hear views on this as I dont want to screw up.

    Cheers.

    I have just rebuilt my motor. The cam has been broken in, I put a bottle of comp cams break in lube in the oil for this.

    Now when I take it on the street, I will use a 30 weight running in oil. Will the piston rings bed in better without any break in lube in the oil or should I leave it in there ?

    Thanks

    Charlie, the only incident I had was a louder tick on the driver side bank. When I pulled the rocker cover to set the lash hot I found a poly lock had come undone. Now I dont know if this was my error in setting the lash cold and I missed tightening one, or it worked loose.

    I hope it has not damaged the cam, but it sounds as sweet as a nut now.

    Dave the stamps came out great - thank you.

    Cheers Guys, will post a completed pic later.

    I have been toiling since November on my engine, and engine bay. Today I started her up for the first time after a major rebuild.

    Some pics.

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    Breaking in the new cam

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    Its in and been run, but there is more to do.

    [Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1069.jpg]

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    Phil, The pin is only in the main cap. There is not one in the block. The pin is only there to keep the rope type seal from spinning in the cap. You need to remove the pin when installing the split lip type of seal. The seal should not be installed flush with the cap part line but rather slightly offset. The split lip type of rear main seals sometimes come the instructions for this. Sometimes the instructions are in a gasket kit. It is not complicated so even without instructions, I am sure that you will figure out what I am trying to say.


    -Fred-


    Fred

    The main seals I have in a Felpro gasket set have little 'feet' on the ends. what do you do with these ? as they wont allow you to rotate the seal away from the slit line.

    Thanks

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    Edited by - cobraboy on 03/24/2011 01:52:41

    Being overseas does make finding out answers and gathering parts difficult at times, but thats what makes restoring a challenge, and a pleasure.

    If you have a question throw it up under Koncerns and trouble shooting, you will alwaya get help.

    I just bought some NOS con rod bolts from Fred <img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>


    Edited by - cobraboy on 03/21/2011 02:27:12