Posts by cobraboy

cobraboy · Distributor Advance Setup cobraboy April 23, 2011 at 9:29 AM

Cheers fellas.

Sorry I seem to be hijacking now.

I dont really want to ship the dist out of the country if I can help it, so will plot a curve and see what I have.

I got a set of springs for one of my other cars so I will try to find out where from.

Mark

cobraboy · Distributor Advance Setup cobraboy April 23, 2011 at 3:33 AM

Thanks very much. when my motor has loosened up a bit I will plot the curve.

I asked as I do not think the distributor is as should be, as there is a lot of 'slack' in the return when the rotor arm is turned against the springs, and one of the springs is so loose it barely does anything.

Cheers

Mark

cobraboy · Distributor Advance Setup cobraboy April 22, 2011 at 10:04 AM

Whats the best way to do this ?. Make up a degree tape and fix to the balancer or use an adjustable timing light.

What RPM is best to set max advance at - ie 3000, 3500 ??

Thanks

cobraboy · K-Distributor Upgrade to Mallory Unilite cobraboy April 20, 2011 at 12:25 PM

Thanks

cobraboy · K-Distributor Upgrade to Mallory Unilite cobraboy April 19, 2011 at 11:25 AM

Care to tell the Summit part number ?.

Bit confused on the vac advance / retard movement that you had to fix.

Surely the dual point does not have vac adv /ret.

Please clarify the situation on that.

Thanks, looks very interesting, any other parts to the kit or is that it ?

How many wires are there, and what are the connections ?

Cheers

Mark

cobraboy · Running in oil cobraboy April 13, 2011 at 3:23 PM

Ok seems logical.

I started her up again tonight and ran for another 20 mins at fast idle, all seems well.

I hope to take the car for her annual ministry roadworthy test on Saturday morning, so keep your fingers crossed for me.

Cheers

Mark

cobraboy · Running in oil cobraboy April 12, 2011 at 11:30 AM

Quote from zray

what is your thinking in wanting to use a straight 30 wt. oil as opposed to a multi viscosity oil like a 5w-30 or a 10w-30 ?

the multi viscosity oil will flow better while the motor is cold, which is when most of wear occurs.

as far as the break-in additive goes, I would leave it in for no more than 250 to 500 miles, and try to get those miles driven in a short time period. Then be sure to change the filter when you change the oil.

Many, if not all, break in additives contain graphite. It can make your oil filter much less effective (plugs it up) and should not be used when normal oil & filter changes intervals (3000+ miles) are employed.

I don't think a break in additive is necessary. Just my subjective opinion. When my engine was overhauled 43,000 miles ago there was a liberal amount of assembly lube put on the cam and lifters. Otherwise, no additives in the oil.

Z.

p.s. nice looking engine by the way.

Display More

Thanks

My reasoning for the 30 wt oil is that it is a special running in oil to help the piston rings bed in properly. I would leave this in for only 500 miles, then put in a multigrade.

I wondered if having break in lube in the 30 wt would be counterproductive making the oil too slippy for the rings to bed in ?.

So far I have only run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes in the garage, and after doing the hot lash and the timing all seems good. I have changed the oil filter as I used graphite assembly past in certain locations.

Thanks all, be interested to hear views on this as I dont want to screw up.

Cheers.

cobraboy · Windshield washer tubing cobraboy April 12, 2011 at 12:54 AM

Thanks very much.

Mark

cobraboy · A Great day. cobraboy April 11, 2011 at 5:04 PM

Did I mention I cut the centre of the hood out and installed a plexi glass panel ?.

cobraboy · Windshield washer tubing cobraboy April 11, 2011 at 2:42 PM

Should the washer tubing be clipped so it runs above or below the shock tower braces along the cowl ?.

Thanks

13th April 1965 Dearborn car.

cobraboy · Running in oil cobraboy April 11, 2011 at 2:39 PM

I have just rebuilt my motor. The cam has been broken in, I put a bottle of comp cams break in lube in the oil for this.

Now when I take it on the street, I will use a 30 weight running in oil. Will the piston rings bed in better without any break in lube in the oil or should I leave it in there ?

Thanks

cobraboy · A Great day. cobraboy April 11, 2011 at 2:30 PM

Thanks all for the comments.

Here it is done, I just have to fit the hood, then I can take it for a spin [Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1073.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1072.jpg]

cobraboy · out of hibernation cobraboy April 10, 2011 at 8:35 AM

OOOOH NOOOO !!!!!

Using a Mustang as a workbench for CHEVY parts.

How could you.

cobraboy · A Great day. cobraboy April 10, 2011 at 8:29 AM

Charlie, the only incident I had was a louder tick on the driver side bank. When I pulled the rocker cover to set the lash hot I found a poly lock had come undone. Now I dont know if this was my error in setting the lash cold and I missed tightening one, or it worked loose.

I hope it has not damaged the cam, but it sounds as sweet as a nut now.

Dave the stamps came out great - thank you.

Cheers Guys, will post a completed pic later.

cobraboy · A Great day. cobraboy April 9, 2011 at 3:34 PM

I have been toiling since November on my engine, and engine bay. Today I started her up for the first time after a major rebuild.

Some pics.

[Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1047.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1040.jpg]

Breaking in the new cam

[Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1067.jpg]

Its in and been run, but there is more to do.

[Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1069.jpg]

cobraboy · WTB '65 GT Instrument bezel cobraboy April 4, 2011 at 3:48 PM

Forgive me but sometime ago I read that the woodgrain finish is stuck on over the camera case. Is this correct ?. If so a pony cluster could be stripped back and used.

cobraboy · Rear main seal locating pin(s)? cobraboy March 24, 2011 at 3:41 PM

Thanks Fred

I am about to start assembleing my engine after a winter refresh project, there is seemingly no end of quirks to get over.

Thanks for the tip.

Cheers for the sealant tip Ralph.

Mark

cobraboy · Rear main seal locating pin(s)? cobraboy March 24, 2011 at 1:52 AM

Quote from C6ZZKGT

Phil, The pin is only in the main cap. There is not one in the block. The pin is only there to keep the rope type seal from spinning in the cap. You need to remove the pin when installing the split lip type of seal. The seal should not be installed flush with the cap part line but rather slightly offset. The split lip type of rear main seals sometimes come the instructions for this. Sometimes the instructions are in a gasket kit. It is not complicated so even without instructions, I am sure that you will figure out what I am trying to say.

-Fred-

Fred
The main seals I have in a Felpro gasket set have little 'feet' on the ends. what do you do with these ? as they wont allow you to rotate the seal away from the slit line.
Thanks

Display More

cobraboy · New FAQ section cobraboy March 21, 2011 at 2:26 AM

Being overseas does make finding out answers and gathering parts difficult at times, but thats what makes restoring a challenge, and a pleasure.

If you have a question throw it up under Koncerns and trouble shooting, you will alwaya get help.

I just bought some NOS con rod bolts from Fred

cobraboy · EFFPI Steering Wheel cobraboy March 19, 2011 at 1:49 PM

That is an object with a high lovelyness factor