Posts by cobraboy

RECOMMENDED TEMPLATE: Sold for final sale price by seller

BuyItNow set at bin price(also post BIN if there is one for comparison)

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You'd think that a bit of research on the colours would have been done before putting pen to paper. If I had 100 dollars for every car I saw with wimbleton white paint - well I would be able to buy a wimbledon white car and then go and watch some tennis. Then go and see the changeing of the guard at buck house in my guardsman blue underwear

If therre ARE any mistyakes in thiis post blamre it on the wynne

Thank you John

I have delved further, I turned up a mustang monthly tech page on how to convert to quartz and guess what, the hands. face, button etc have to be transplanted from the mechanical movement to the quartz. I have the yelow second hand so I have to assume that the original equipment got transfered so I will use it on the 'new' mechanical clock. Just dont expect me to turn up on time

Interesting topic

I have never really gone out of my way to specify a colour for cars that I own apart from one case when I chose red for a bare body re paint. How ever I find myself in the curious position of owning four cars in re sale red. This must mean I am in for a s**t load of money later on

He He thanks john.

Ok what happens when you guys change your clocks to quartz movements, do you transplant the whole thing, face, hands, dial, button etc or do you have to take all these off the mechanical movement and move them over to the quartz. If they are transplanted then the chances are that the dial I have on the quartz movement is the original one ( which by the way does not have a 6 )

I am not on my home computor so do not have access to all of my umages, is your car a GT with a low profile pac?

Ralph, Fred

Thank you for your thoughts which of course make perfect sense. As I said I keep getting caught out when ordering parts that are listed by 'early or late' lack of knowledge on my part.

This car of mine will never be a concours or show car because in the UK we do not really have the show structure set up like you guys over there so its a bit like being all dressed up but nowhere to go.

However my pleasure is derived from having something that is close to how it was made and as I am only another of a long line of owners this car has had to endure I dont want to be the one who screwed it up.

But I will still DRIVE it and have FUN !!!

Everyones help on here is amazing.

I am still mulling this over.

What do you guys consider to be early and late in terms of production date.

If the production year starts in August, would Aug to Jan be early, and Feb to july be late ?. As I have been caught out on this before.

Or does early / late refer to the calender year?

Thanks

I cannot recall anyone putting up a pic of Freds pumps so heres a couple to proove they work wordwide [Blocked Image: http://i29.tinypic.com/1114eb5.jpg]

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Fred

I guess I need a six then

Cheers Mark

Jack, Ralph thanks for the info on this

Mark

The reason for all this sixery is I am going to ask Phil Severence to build me an original clock as I have a quartz one and I would like it correct. Yes I know it wont keep time and it will lump and jerk but hey the rest of the car does that and I dont particularly feel the need to arrive on time when I'm in my car, I just enjoy being in there!

Hopefuly some pics

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Fred

I see you say all of your low profile clocks do not have a 6. I will try to add something I found on repairers site which says early '65 low profile clocks had the 6.

Early 1965 Mustangs with the "Low Profile" rally pac (used in 1965 on special Hi-Perf Mustangs) had the same clock face as the 1965 "High Profile" rally pacs. Later, "Low Profile" rally pacs used on the 1965 Hi-Perf models had the same clock face as the 1966 "Low Profile" rally pacs, used entirely in 1966. In 1966 the "High Profile" rally pac was discontinued. Notice the stem on the early 1965 "Low Profile" rally pac and the "High Profile" rally pac did not negate the "6" o'clock numeral printed on the clock face, but the later 1965-66 "Low Profile" rally pac clock did not have the "6" screen printed on the dial." Also, the 1966 yellow second hand was used on the early and late 1965 rally clocks & all 1966 clocks.

Unfortunatly the pic did not come out, whats your take on this, 6 or not?

Thanks Mark

Gentlemen

Can someone please say 100% whether a 13 April 1965 low profile rally pac clock would have a number 6 on the dial or would it be missing ?

Thanks

Jack

She's a stunner. You must be well chuffed

Mark

Well well fancy this coming up. I wondered what went in that empty clip on the pass firewall, off to the garage now to route my cable properly.

Jack

Thanks for posting that info it is very helpful. I have a rattly muffler at present so have decided to buy a budget pair of mufflers to sort that out. I will later on probably go for a complete motive system as I do not think my H pipe is correct either as the clutch return spring has to bend around the pipe. So when the underside gets its makeover I can sort it all out.

Mark

I had the honour to fly with Carolyn Grace in Spitfire MK 1X T ML407.

We flew from Duxford Cambridgeshire to Mersea Island on the coast. I flew the aircraft back to Duxford. It was the greatest thrill of my life.

ml407.co.uk

Yeah that paint job of yours is a real disgrace

Keep surviving and we'll come back to this one

Mark

Just heard, another 3 brits killed and one seriously injured in Afganistan. Glad you got your boy back safe. We have very close relationships with you guys over there in our family. My partner was a civvy at RAF Mildenhall for a number of years and her father was at Lakenheath for @ 15 yrs. You yanks aint such a bad bunch.

Right

Thats why I still have to decide. All these guys with arrow straight frame rails must have done something. Perhaps they replaced the whole frame rail?

So come on Ray what ya gonna do with yours?

Guys

I really do not want to cut the floors as they are original sheetmetal. My thoughts are,

1. cut some large holes in the base of the rail and insert a hooked rod attatched to a slide hammer and try to pull them down. The trouble is the sides of the rails have 'bellied' and I doubt this will come out. After weld up holes and grind flat.

2. Using a thin disc, cut out the bottom of the rail, insert a block into the cavity and dress the sides flat. Cut out a new bottom out of slightly thicker gauge material, replicate the holes and weld in place, dressing afterwards to loose the weld.

I think number 2 is favourite unless you guys with perfect bottoms know different.

But it is a lot work, is there an easier way?

I've put a couple of thousand miles on mine and typically travel at 70-80 turning 3,200-3,400 r.p.m. It's an awesome sound, and not at all uncomfortable (unless you're some kind of weenie who doesn't like a throaty sound)

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Thanks Dave [Blocked Image: http://i31.tinypic.com/2z7ppgk.jpg]