Posts by cobraboy

    I must be very niave but I assumed that you would only be allowed to participate with one identity.

    The thought of people on a forum with multiple identities fills me with dread.

    There is endless scope for mischief and scullduggery.

    Cannot the moderators do something about this?

    Firstly I am no expert.

    But from your post I gather that if you buy the non GT you will always be hankering after the GT car.

    So if you can make the issues right without too much time or money go with the GT car.

    Of course be real sure what it is - Factory GT, confirmed by build sheet or buck tag, Dealer optioned GT, or homemade GT.

    You would not want to pay top dollar for a car that was not right.


    Now the real experts can put you right.

    Fred

    Thanks for clearing that up, I will probably change out the starter gear as it is a bit worn and will then keep a watch on it.

    It does not make any bad noises at the moment.

    As the 'new' starter came from an unmolested auto car and was the same as mine I was concerned mine was not correct, but you have put me straight on that.

    Thanks

    Mark

    I am of course assuming that the gears need to be apart and not in constant mesh ????

    Also I have yet again been fooled by years of paint and crud.

    I have found stampings and date codes on the original starter it is Ford.

    Hi Fred

    I may have worded that confusingly.

    When I pulled the starter the front face of the ring gear looked shiney and a tiny bit knarled.

    I measured how far back the front face of the ring gear was from the starter mounting face and this was @ 3/4".

    I them measured how far the starter teeth were sticking out beyond the mounting face at rest and got the same dimension.

    So I realised the starter was running against the ring gear.

    By fitting the spacer I have given a 2mm gap between the gears at rest.

    But I have also ensured in doing this that when the starter gear is thrown into mesh that there is enough travel to give a full penetration into the ring gear.

    I am suprised you have found out that the manual calls for a common starter as my dabbling on the VMF suggested that there were two different snouts for manual and auto.

    There is lots of talk about spacers on there too so I cant claim an original idea on that one. Thanks Mark

    Hello fellas

    Hope you had a great Christmas.

    I have been crawling all over the VMF and it appears I have 2 auto trans startersX(

    After taking some careful measurements I have made up a spacer out of 2mm alloy sheet.

    The starter gear was not withdrawing far enough to clear the ring gear.

    After looking at the ring gear with a magnifying glass I can see it is the front face of the teeth that have been in contact with the starter gear and the remainder of the teeth are in good order.

    So by pulling the starter away a little with a spacer I hope all will now be well.

    Fred you are right - being so far away from supplies is a real PITA,

    You want to be careful you dont roll out of bed onto something hard


    :D

    I hope the coming year is better for you than the last.

    Mark

    Hi Guys

    I realise this is not K specific but it does relate to my car.

    I was given a starter by a guy who has a 289 with an auto trans.

    I think the starter snouts for manual and auto are different?

    I compared the 'new' one and my old one side by side and the snouts are the same sizes overall from mounting face to tip.

    This measurement is @ 2 5/8".

    My flywheel teeth do not look too good, they are taking a beating.

    I wonder if my existing starter is for an auto trans?

    Is there a means to tell auto from manual ? My car is manual

    They have 2 bolts each.

    The cast number on the auto snout is C3OE 11131-A

    The existing one is aftermarket with no number.

    Thanks

    Hi Guys

    I have removed my 3rd member to work on it and thought I would share the marks that I have found.

    Does anyone know what these mean ?

    Also does anyone have a good pic of the marks on the back of a Apr/ May /jun '65 Dearborn axle case ?

    Also is a pic of the white check mark on brake backplate.

    Car is Apr '65 Dearborn.

    Thanks

    [Blocked Image: http://i49.tinypic.com/104m1w1.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://i49.tinypic.com/2yl79cl.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://i46.tinypic.com/2lt09e9.jpg]

    Well we are only 6 hours away from the big day. the log fire is burning bright, snow is outside, the turkey is ready, all the family are round in the morning,and the kids are thinking of hanging up their stockings for Santa.

    I wish all of you a very happy Christmas and a prosperous new year.

    Thank you for all of your help and support in my first K year, it has been a blast

    Mark

    I personally would not do that. Plus when you were finished, it still would be incorrect. The "end" or base of the repro. is currently the same thickness as the original HiPo spacer.

    -BrantNot talking about removing material from the base, I mean taking it off the nose if it is thick enough to do.

    Anyone measured the thickness of the end material on the new one ?

    If its thick enough a good lathe operator may be able to turn it down.

    He would have to take a cut near the centre then work out to avoid the lumps.

    A blast afterward with some coarse media and hey presto.

    If they are not expensive someone ought to check it out.

    Quote from club 33

    quote:

    I am seeing that the 2 1/4" fan spacer is being reproduced now, I believe the one for the HIPO is a different thickness though, but I am unsure....I have my correct original spacer on mine but wondered just how close this repro is/would be once installed for those of you that don't currently have an original??

    This spacer is very nice, would work, and is the same shape, but it is not the correct length for the HiPo. The overall length of this spacer is 2 1/4". The overall length of a HiPo spacer is 2 1/16". I've had many HiPo owners buy this one to use until they can get a correct spacer.


    An original HiPo spacer seems to be getting more difficult to find all of the time. Often the originals that are found are very pitted also.


    -BrantBrant perhaps you can tell me what I am missing.

    In the above quote you say a HiPo spacer is 2 1/16" overall.

    It is accepted that a HiPo spacer is 2.360" overall.

    That is not the same measurement.

    2.360 is nearly 2 3/8"

    Both are given as overall measurements.

    BTW it doesn't affect me as I have a 2.360" spacer.