Posts by 289kford

you want Webers? No, look at this set-up.

these guys build some neet late model mustangs.

this is one of the things they do for early engines.

http://www.dynatekracing.com/fuelinjection.htm

nice feature on the Spike TV program 'Muscle Car' this weekend. 66 GT koupe.

found this in the archives..

Alignment specs for lowered Mustangs (only):

Chuck Cantwell, Shelby American GT 350 project engineer recommended 2 degrees positive caster, 1 degree negative camber and 1/8 " toe in for all years of Shelby Mustangs. You can play with settings for different applications.

2.0 with man. steering, so does the lowering do something to exagerate the power steering feel?

found this too:

Wouldn't lowering the A-Arms on a powersteering car reeck havoc on the Caster settings with regards to feel?

Especially with radial tires. I personally don't like the feel of 60's Ford products with powersteering. But I know from Jeff's writings that the specs on the alignment change and looking at them it seems to me you would lose any remaining "road feel".

(posted by beagle)

looks to me like p/s begone!

I don't have the shop book here, but found a web site that shows power steering cars at 2 degrees positive, manual cars at 1/4 positive. I think it was from one of the mustang magazine articles. you have nothing to loose by double checking it and moving it higher if it's not there now. I never drove a power steering kar, I don't know if there are any adjustments to the assist.

of course, this only matters if there are no other issues with the front end, but I'm thinking all you parts are new and bearings adjusted?

did you get a copy of the print out when it was done? if so you won't spend money on a re-check just to see.

on other thing I thought of... after I changed some parts in my front end, about a month later I found I could tighten the strut rods some more. this will effect caster.

when the alignment was checked, where was the caster set at? too far negative will give a 'loose' wander feel to the steering.

While greater caster angles serve to improve straight-line stability, they also cause an increase in steering effort. if you go too far positive it could create vibration and shock hitting bumps

I used Krylon semi-flat. I liked that look but it may not be what is correct. semi- flat is just below satin but above flat. satin is below semi-gloss, I thought that was too shiny.

I plan to change my mufflers this summer and made a video with the stock exhaust to post on youtube.

to compare to the arvinode sound, here is the video from round2k.

my car is a jan. 65 build and would have had the arvinode. this is the tsb replacement system.

in theory, the shorter sidewall would be better for the track because it will flex less. if the car is lowered, you should not need the diameter to fill the wheel wells. if you stay with the 215, the tire height will change as you go from 75/70/65. you should also consider tire width vs. rim width. look at the tire specs at goodyear for example. it will list a tire and suggested rim width range.

look for the mustang places that sell motive industries exhaust. I think virginia mustangs is one. you will need to go to dual exhaust unless you have that Y-ppe custom made, as stated above, the K was an h-pipe and went into duals.

If you want to use the K manifolds, you need to replace the Y-pipe. If you are still using single exhaust after that, you will not see any change in performance. if you go to duals,I don't know if you would see much diff. between the C and K manifolds. you could sell those manifolds and finance a tri-y header, dual exhaust setup, then add a 4V carb.

Quote from 5F09C

Where can I find Castrol Valvemaster Plus in the states? every link I see is UK.

Castrol does not list any fuel additives on its USA website. There is a seller on ebay that ships worldwide but I would just get something at a parts store, there has to be a dozen brands you can find.

while looking on the web, I did find (from 1999) a FTC settlement concerning false claims of a Castrol brand fuel additive.

Quote from oscart

Obviously, a good tune is important. The more gear you have the less lugging of the engine you will also have which helps.

wonderful, I just bought some 3.50's to replace the 4.56's.

I've been running the lead substitute (I think it's CD2) for more than a couple years nows. It may not do what they say it does, but it has not hurt anything as far as I can tell.

As far as octane boost, Lucas Oil brand ups the number by 30 points, thats 91 to 94. Most others are less than 10 points. I may try some this summer.

I have tested coils in the past by checking resistance and have not found it to be reliable. Ford shop books have a resistance test in them, but, if your problem is shutting down when coil is hot, for example, a cold test won't show a problem.

I have been living with 4.56 gears for 32 years. When I was young, single, and had $ to spend on a toy, I thought those gears were cool and damn, the car was fast, so I left them in. Now, when $ is tight, I am looking for some 3.50 to swap in....

Quote

Quote from 6hypo5conv

These damn Chineese.....I see in the paper that they clammer for LARGE GAS GUZZLING SUVs!!!! they must be able to buy them AND pay for the gas from the sale of the inferior reproduction parts that we routenly buy from them.

Take a pill. The Chinese make them but somebody over on your side designed them.

Your tone is very close to being inflamatory.

as with alot of things 'our side' designed, they steal it, use crap components to build it, and sell it back to us as our leaders are too stupid (or paid off) to see it happening. thats how I got a tail light lens that said MOFOCO.

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Quote from 6hypo5conv

I just spoke with NPD again about the coils:he said that the "cheaper$$" coils were just that and that I should really wait until they get re-stocked on the better one.

He also suggested that I buy Pertronix coil, paint the top yellow, and add the proper decal and have a much better trouble free coil....anyone done this?? what color yellow is the closest match to the original??

so they are saying " we know these are junk but what the hell, we sell them anyway"???

I bought a remote mirror and set of tail light lens from Mustangs Unlimited a couple years ago.

The mirror was supposed to be concourse, maybe it was packaged wrong, but it looked like it was made of chromed plastic, and you could see what looked like brush marks in it. Sent it back, they could not confirm if it was the typical 'best' mirror or not, so I got one from Year One. It is fine.

If that ain't bad enough, the lens, instead of FOMOCO, actually was stamped MOFOCO. MOFOCO? No copy write infringed there. They could not explain how they could sell a part like that.

What's your story?

for those of you that have changed to roller or aftermarket stock style, have you noticed a performance gain? I see the comp link above boasts 15-30 horse increase over stock. are they saying factory rockers (ratio) are that far out of spec? I would have thought factory parts would be tighter spec than some china built replacement parts that are out there.

I see they also have a 1.7 ratio. Anybody cheating a little with those?

ACCURATE

You can’t get maximum horsepower from your engine if your rocker ratio is off. We checked other rockers and found rockers that were as much as .040” short on lift. The Magnum Rockers™ are super Accurate. They check dead on every time.

POWERFUL

The Magnum Roller Rockers™ can make between 15 and 30 horsepower over other rockers! Why? The secret is that not only does the roller tip reduce friction, the Magnum Rockers™ incredibly stiff design and super accurate ratios yield more effective valve lift.

Quote from 66transam

It's a '66 low profile rally pac. A '65 high profile style would be correct for this car.

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did the 65 GT use a low profile?

I changed my cluster to the 5 dial so my low profile looked at home in the car.