Posts by SaltLakeDj

I believe that "all" C30E-B flywheels are 160 tooth from the factory. That doesn't mean that some haven't been changed over the years. The C30E-B date coded 6A13 that I just recieved shipment of counted 160 (worn out teeth) and it apears that it has been rebalanced to 28.2 oz. or even lighter 26 oz. it has orange paint daub and the hardness test. It has been rebalanced to run without the hatchet. I hope I can reverse this. Does a machinest or engine builder plug weld in the drill holes to return the balance or drill more holes?

Scott

This might be a little late in posting. I own a San Jose K code date code 27G # 5R07K 102379 Hood was a 64 1/2, headlight buckets were not 45ed, had the pre 65 vents in radiator support, had 64 1/2 horns, had the early style front fenders, had the threaded pcv valve and brass fitting, had the plug pressed in the timingcase, Had an ALTERNATOR rather than a generator, had muffler behind the axle but had resonators and gt trumpets (I don't think these were factory) also had factory exhaust brackets near the tailpipe flanges like a single exhaust both sides and brackets at the 10 and 11 inch positions from the shackle with large clamps like the arvinode system around the resonators, had factory K stamped vin in axle tube?- stamp matches the engine block stamp exactly, had 15 inch wheels, early style carpet. Mine was definately a transition car. I suspect it was built around August 10-20th 1964. My former Allstate insurance agent Niel Witcher worked on the San Jose assembly line and told me he remembered working on only 2 or 3 k codes in the 2 week period of the 64 1/2 cars also there were a few hipo fairlanes built in that period. At least that's what he told me.

This lends credence to the theory that there were no Generator San Jose K codes.

Scott

I purchased a rebuilt? proportioning valve on ebay. You don't get what you pay for sometimes on Ebay . The company that sold it told me that the rebuilder in San Jose had told him it was resleeved. I took it apart to discover it is pitted. It looks perfect on the outside, no pits. Has anyone resleeved one of these in the past year. If so who is the best rebuilder? I've heard of Mark Frappier. Does he do the best rebuild.

Thanks in advance,

Scott

I just bought a C30E- B date coded 6A13 off of ebay . I'm waiting for it to be delivered. if I can't use it I'll be sure to let you know. But it looks like it's not a 30.4 0z so I don't know if you would want it. Would you want it if you had to re blalance it?

Scott

Looking more closely I did find some evidence of red oxide under the radiator area under the bushings in the radiator support but from there back I didn't see any red oxide on the undercarriage. Just white overspray. The only red oxide in the rear body of my car was under gray primer sealer( Factory ? ) and the white paint. I am the third "known" owner of the car and most of the original paint was still there. I bought the car in 1992. The car sat wrecked on the passenger side in a field for unknown years. I have not media blasted the undercarriage because mine is a driver due to "too much" sheet metal replacement. 1964-1992 is a long time but it doesn't apear that the floor and undercarriage has been repainted.

Scott

Thanks,

Scott

My 64.5 k code dated 27G from San Jose had black primer on the undercarriage and it was oversprayed with the white paint coat . I never found any red oxide on the undercarriage. the body had light black mist coat, red, then gray primer followed by the white finish coat.

Anyone have a photo of what the finish on a factory kelsey hayes proportioning valve should look like? I seem to remember that the casting was painted grey primer, but was the whole valve painted or were some parts left cad plated?

Scott

Looks like this C3AE-N Hipo Crank is not the real thing. will use the hatchet and gear and sell the crank as a Non Hipo Crank.

-Scott-

I just found a "nodular ? " C3AE-N crank on Ebay that came from a remanufacturer. I was just trying to get a good crank. when I opened the box I noticed that the third counter weight from the rear had been repainted orange. There is a polished spot on the rear counterweight that has: H.P. SERVICE stamped into it. on the first counterweights are the casting numbers 5C and on the other side is 5D rather than 1M. and there is a "k" stamped into the second to last counterweight It also has the hatchet counterweight and Hipo timing gear. Anyone speculate that it came from ford that way. Best thing I can determine is that this crank was ordered from ford in the 70's or 80's as a service crank. I didn't think ford kept polishing and testing cranks that way did they?

Does the"N" in C3AE- N actually mean it's a high nod crank? I only paid $160 for this crank so if it's bogus I'm not out anything because the hatchet and gear are worth that much.

Good find?

I have a factory original F4 dated 3734S carter x for a 64.5 The color on the cannister bowl has yellowed over the years but the closest color to a spray can color is a dull semi gloss winbledon white or factory parchment interior paint color. But whatever color you put on it, it needs to be flattened.

This was on a San Jose car, other factories may have done it different.

-Scott

Oh P.S. I have a 5 bolt block and used the adaptor plate method because it is the only way to make it work. I had to bend the H-pipe to clear the new lower bracket and cut a slightly bigger hole sidways in the tunnel to make it fit. I used a Hurst shifter and had to have the stock type shift stick made to fit it. with 3:80:1, I could almost do wheel stands and it was real hard on the clutch.

-Scott-

I put a Ford RacingT-5 in my k code and have really liked it except for one thing. I had 3:80:1 rear end and had to change my rear end ratio to 3:25:1 . Now it is more like a new 2009 GT in how it drives. another thing I did was to pull the original long yoke and put in a short yoke out of a 72 pickup, this way I could use a stock driveline for a C-4 automatic and shelve my original driveline. Also put in a centerforce presure plate and disk. I hate it, the finger type hipo unit is the only way to go.

Fred, If you were to look at a standard 289 hipo rear main cap if you read it right reading with the rope seal channel to the rear of the cap, the casting number would read on the left side C30 and on the right side it would read E-A. The caps I have read on the left side A and on the right side C30E-

Standard hipo rear cap C30 E-A

My hipo rear cap A C30E-

Have you seen a rear cap like this before? I will try to get a digital photo of this cap.

-Scott-

I just came across an engine with a set of 289 hipo main caps which has an unusual casting. I have never seen this before. A standard 289 Hipo main cap has the cast in number of ( C3O E-A ), yet this set of caps came off of a 5 bolt block date coded 4G16C casting number of C4AE-B. the engine has un-rebuilt 65 hipo heads dated 5H20, and 5H25. The unusual casting in the rear main cap reads ( A C30E- ) ( cap looks just like stock 289Hipo rear main cap ) also the 1 through 4 main caps look exactly like standard 289Hipo except the 4 in the casting of the fourth cap is backwards and it is polished like a hipo crank shaft with a stamping of N in the polished area. The engine also had service connecting rods ( football shaped head bolts ) and the crankshaft has no polished area on the rear lob. It has timing gear hatchet and gear with built in spacer.

This must be a service block or a rebuild of some kind or a mexican block.

Anyone run across this before? I don't have a digital camera to take pictures. and if I did I don't know how to import them on this site. Were there any ( A C30E- ) casting numbers in mexican caps without a date code. and did they even make Mexican blocks in 1965?

There is a 66 hipo gt350 engine on ebay it has duel carb intake and cobra oil pan and you can see the serial number.

Look under 289 engine.

only one day remaining.

Learn something new every day. I was only 4 when this engine was built. I was told by a former insurance quy that worked on the Detroit engine assembly line that they all had them. I don't know

-Scott-

Note no chrome dipstick. No rubber on the J hooks. I think the carburetor is not original to this engine. you could get that blue dye look on the return spring with a blue sharpy. I think it has been added. Engine tag has likely been added.

Also date on the shipping tag appears to be Jan-86.

No 245K 10 degrees label on the coil. No 289 Cobra powered by ford- High performance labels on the rocker covers. A complete crate engine would have these labels. I think the rocker covers were added at some point.

Spark plug wires to the distributor would likely not be included. Coil would likely not be included.

I think this is a remanufactured engine with a lot of old parts added to make it look like a complete factory engine.

Any thoughts on this?

-Scott-

BMaloof, contact acman63 he is the seller

-Scott-

Factory assembly lube will most likely protect the internals, but the heads would have to have a complete disasembly and possibly valves need to be relapped or replaced, the rope seal and timing chain seal would have to be replaced. the intake manifold most likely has rust inside.

To even try to start this engine without a complete disaembly and a good going over with a scotchbrite on all internal parts and hot tank the block and manifolds would destroy the engine in my opinion.

Looking at another $500-$1000 over what the winner pays with shipping .

Possibly $7000-$10,000 total. Too much in my opinion.

-Scott_