Posts by RalphJr

You should be able to get a repo at AMK.

This topic has been discussed - try searching the archive and you should find some details - the radiators varied by assembly plant - so try searching by that and see what you find.

Dave,

Welcome to the site.....you will find a lot of great guys here and plenty of help and advice.

Owning a K code since '79 I know all about the differences, but I too had to learn them the hard way many times keeping mine running thru high school and college.

AMEN!

Give the JOY of Ownership and routine maintance a chance!

I've had good luck taking the top mount completely off - then jacking up the car and removing the wheel to get the lower mounting bolts off - install in reverse order.

Be careful not to strip the lower mounting bolts - many people get "gorilla" and over tighten them.

Looks better than most from this dealer, but way over priced.

From the propaganda he put up on the balancer and distributor I would check these parts out closely - the disty is the early "OIL PLUG" type which unless the datecode is correct is too early for this car. I'd bet $10 they are not the original parts from the car.

Heads may be too early too with a 4HA datecode.

Door tag is a repop - I'd ask where the original is.

I see no supporting photos of the block or tranny serial number stamps for docuemtning "number matching".

Good points - sorry I missed that.

I have never seen the early cars up close enough to help with this detail. My car is a spring '65 K code right after the switch from Arvinode to regular dual mufflers.

I would assume you could use the exhaust chnage over dates as a rough time line for the brake hose changes too.

You might ask Fred if any of his Ford books show anything about a change to the rear brake hose sometime in summer or fall of '64 when Ford would have changed from the transverse system to the more conventional dual muffler system.

I would think that the hose might be the same for all K codes since the impact really is on the axle side - but that is just a guess.

I am sure somebody here will have a good answer.

I am sure this was a running change by Ford as they changed the exhaust styles during production.

My guess is that the early cars with the transverse muffler system didn't have the exhaust pipe / brake hose interference like the later cars with the dual muffler system - so the relocated brake hose wasn't required at first.

My logic anyway........

Mark,

In this case you need to consider the "age" of the options rather than the model year.

In Feb, Mar, and April '65 the GT and Pony options were brand new - as some of the parts/options that went with them - like the low profile Rally Pac.

Since your car is an April build I would say you are safer with the early style "6" clock.

Think of it this way.....Ford was always using parts to depletion. If the high profile Rally Pac was being phased out at the end of '65 and the low profile ramped up in spring '65 makes sense that Ford would use up the older clocks anyway they could before moving to the new clocks OR if they started a new design they would use parts they had on hand to get a part into production quicker before a re-design of a part was ready. This is a very standard production process for any company - I do this all the time in my job!

You only have to look at the variety of part changes between '64 1/2 and '65 model years to see this......may early designs continued well into the '65 model year before being changed - like the 2 speed to 3 speed heater fan change - many people think of this as a 64 1/2" feature, but I think it actually was used into Feb or Mar '65.

HOWEVER - I doubt any judge in a show would notice this - but I do understand your desire to "get it right".

My 2 cents!

Ralph

Jack,

I think the common concensus is the High Profile "Mustang" lettered Rally Pacs were factory installed or specifically ordered for Mustangs. While the "FORD" lettered High Profile Rally Pacs were the over the counter parts department Rally Pac that could be used on any FoMoCo vehicles of the era - Falcons, Rancheros, etc.

I found my High Profile 8 grand "FORD" Rally Pac on a very early '66 A code coupe. It had to be added later since it is not what the factory would have installed on a 5 dial cluster car in '65 or '66. I have no way to tell for sure, but this car was highly optioned - factory AC, PS, Pony interior, seat belt warning light, vinyl top, console, and 4 speed - so I bet the original buyer had this installed by the dealer at purchase. This car now belongs to my daughter, but the Rally Pac will go into my '65 K when it is finished.

I also think the term "Rally Pac" applied mostly to Mustang versions (center plate) and the Ford version had a blank plate, but don't quote me on this. My Ford version has the blank center, but others may have versions with the Rally Pac center.

Sorry to correct you Fred, but I think we have enough evidence to establish that Ford began using the K code "body" for the GT cars in spring '65 - since this was the only factory dual exhaust set up needed for the GT. A number of people with A code factory GTs have posted picks of this plate in their car or responded that their car had this plate - pretty sure some of them were from spring '65.

While I am sure a "few" people really need this part to correctly restore a "true" K code, I'm sorry to see someone has finally repop'd it. I see way to much FRAUD potential and a lot of people taking advanatage of under-educated buyers. GREED will just be too tempting for some people.

Case in point - a black '66 Pony GT K Convert was discussed on this site several years ago - from Nevada I think - Car had been cut in HALF - had a '65 rear section - BUT it had been done really really nice, so you had to know your 'stangs to see the difference BUT this plate was the big gotcha. What happens now when the plate is swapped????????? Especially when a Dealer/Broker gets a hold of it and it suddenly becomes an "All original, numbers matching, perfect example........yada yada yada" over priced re-body.

We're gonna end up just like the Chevy guys! Do you really think all the SS cars are REAL factory SS cars?

Ultimately I think it will hurt our original and/or correctly, HONESTLY restored car values - all for a $75 plate.

Yes - it is low on the fire wall - same or similar clip is used a couple of other places too.

I don't have any detailed pics, but the cable exits the drivers side floor board and there is a retaining clip on the passenger side floor board to hold the cable - the cable then routes back to the passenger side rear of the tranny. This is for a top loader, not sure on a T-10.

Like my momma taught me....."Say something nice or keep your opinion to yourself!"

I don't want to see our site evolve into something people don't enjoy coming to see or posting on - please keep the comments friendly.

Like I said earlier....lots of little details.....big concerns on the quality of the "restoration". Looks good...but it is the details that make the car worth the money.....this one isn't IMHO

I wouldn't trust anything Fraser Dante says. Most of his Ford stuff I've seen is incorrect and way over priced.

This board had a bad experience with him regarding a "rebody" car he had and claimed was 100% correct. He even threatened me personally with legal action.

He also doesn't have the most stellar reputation in the Atlanta area Mustang community.

FYI - he is NOT a FORD guy - his specality is GM products.

Fred - you are right - it did have the swivel. Makes perfect sense now.

VERY nice work so far!

It will be a beautiful car when it is done.

I see a lot of small details that cause me concern.....especially the rust partially hidden by paint in the engine bay shot near the Monte Carlo bar mounting and the lack of HiPo balancer.

I would say the car was "cosmetically" restored to look good, but not a full tilt "remove everything" and fix it correctly restoration.

I would inspect the car very closely before putting down any money.

FYI GUYS......Not all NOS bars came with this hole.

I purchased a REGULAR Z Bar in 1986 from Ford to repair my Hipo - purchased from the Ford Dealer in Norman, Ok where I was going to school.

I had to modify the lower section to get it to work - just like the previous regular bar my dad installed in 1980.

It was a NOS bar with the Ford tag and no hole.

This was before anyone had reproduced the HiPo Z bar.

I have a '66 with PS. Never had this issue, but it sounds like a control valve or blockage issue.

The system is a push/pull assist type and it sounds like something is wrong in the control valve or maybe even one of the hoses is hooked up wrong.

Somehow you are getting fluid pressure back up into the pump area. The control valve regulates the flow of the high pressure fluid - if the piston is stuck inside it could cause this. If there is a blockage on the pressure side or a hose is connected wrong the pump could be backing up into the tank.

I hope this helps.

Mother's makes a great clay bar kit.

Comes with the liquid spray to wet the surface, rub the clay smoothly across surface in light even strokes - keep it really wet. Check the clay often and fold it back in half every so often.

You will be amazed at the crud it picks up off the paint.