Posts by RalphJr

No not yet......but the '67/'68 shell is way better than a rusty / tweaked original shell.

Would be close enough for me if I was building a car from scratch.

I love his "idea" of what it is worth!

I almost sent hima $1.00 "Best Offer" just to be a jerk.....but restrained myself.

It appears this car is tweaked so hard and missing so much stuff you would be better off looking for something else - I doubt anything could be done to save it unless you just want to waste money......it ain't worth $7500 and THATS FOR SURE!

You'd be WAY better off just buying a DYNACORN Fastback at this point.

A really BAD repop door tag at that!

I've got an extra one with nice wires.

Let me dig it out and I'll snap some photos of it and send it them to you.

You can send me an email at rpolshak(at)cleat.net.

I agree - you definitely need to use a sealer/primer if you go to bare metal.

I shot mine with Duplicolor self-etching primer and then hit them with a scuff pad before paint - turned out very nice for spray can paint.

CCS,

I have an April "build date" K 2+2 from Dearborn - mid April - 12R.

My engine is original and VIN stamped. All of my engine castings are EARLY March '65. 5C1 intake, 5C7 block, 5C9 heads - if my brain is working correctly.

You will need 5CXX type datecodes on your castings.

Ford started '65 Mustang "CAR" Build dates back in early '64 - that is why our car build dates are "R" - because Ford kept using VIN numbers and build letters well beyond the normal 12 month period since they considered all cars "1965" cars even built in early '64 - so the CAR build dates DO NOT follow the normal Ford datecode format for month letter in '65.

However "CASTING" dates and individual part datecodes were still subject to Ford's normal datecode formats.

An April '65 built Mustang will have a xxR build date, but have part and casting datecodes in the 5A, 5B, 5C, and possibly 5D ranges. My car even has a few parts well before that - like the tranny case and tailshaft - late '64 castings - but a VIN stamped case.

I hope this helps.

Here is what my Dearborn car had upon disassembly for restoration:

Trap door was painted interior color.

Hinges were black - not sure of the coating - mine just cleaned up nicely so i left them as is.

Some latch parts and door support were silver plating - I had them clear zinc plated and they turned out awesome.

The latch knob and slider were re-chromed if I remember correctly.

Thats just funny!

About time the Japs had their PINTO/CORVAIR experience.

Very Very Cool

I love Black & White.....took photograhy in HS and learned how to really do it - can be stunning when done right.

Excellent job!

Shane - glad to help.

Most people never see or try the search box.

The great thing about this site is all of the informaiton that gets shared and the ability to go back and search through it.

Best of luck on your quest for info - if the guys here can't help you can try the Vintage Mustang Forum - VMF - they have a lot of information too.

You can also use a brass wire wheel - the brass is softer than the steel - it gets all the paint and gunk out of the cracks, but won't take off the texture. I used paint stripper on mine first then used several wheels on a die grinder - came our beautiful.

Search the archive.....search the archive....Oh, by the way did I say Search the Archive!

There are pictures and lots of details - this has definetly been discussed before.

Here is one link I found with a 1 minute search using just "starter" in the search box

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7918

I think this topic has what you want.

These are probably the tamper-proof screws many places sell to protect against theft of the Rally-Pac.

I don't know exactly what they are, but they might be a Torx head - 6 pointed star - with or without a center pin - the OEMs use these a lot on new cars and tools are easy to find at any parts store.

NICE.....I like the color too - but I'll stick with my Raven Black one.

Nice subtle touches - Shelby grill and exhaust....Nice aftermarket wheels too - complement the car nicely.

One question - did someone cut the cowl for a fresh air intake? It looks like it is cut right above the Export Brace.

TOO many issues to list.

Looks like a nice car for show & shine days and driving, but lots of issues and hipo stuff missing if you are looking for a complete K code.

At leat he is honest about adding the GT stuff - even if they got most of it wrong.

Wayne,

Check with Classic Auto Air - they buy and restore these units - they may have spare parts.

All of my units are complete - one 65 and 2 - 66 underdash units - no "spare parts" units - sorry.

Ralph

I'd bet the reason for the different part number is that the bias setting is different.

T-bird weighed a LOT more than the 'stang - so did the Lincolns - so the front/rear bias would be different.

My 2cents.

Seems like I remember it too.....something about slightly custom and a special cloth top - Mercedes marterial I think.

Is this right?

WHOA INDEED!!!

Jim,

Thanks. The VW guys are the real backbone of Baja racing - true racers at heart and TOUGH - you have to be to take the pounding hour after hour in a VW that BAJA dishes out.

I worked with mostly Trophy Truck guys, but did help a few in the Sportsman classes.

I had a lot of fun in my 7 years supporting the GPS efforts for Lowarnce - I have a lifetime of stories and photos.

The Baja 500 or 1000 is definitely a race that should be experienced by any hard core racer or fan.

Ralph