Nice looking car, but the devil is in the details.
I only see a few issues from the photos - but you'll want to look closer - the price is a little on the high side for today's market.
It has '66 wheels, GT exhaust, missing bumper guards, and an incorrect 5 gauge dash - but all of this is easily fixed but costs extra $$$.
I'd be curious if all the small details are correct for this price.
Nothing appears to be original K anymore - except the VIN number.
Lots of hidden rust too if you look close.
It does have the HiPo axle plate - one good thing, but thats about the only thing.
Bob,
Sent you a few for a C4 carb - I'll send some from my restored C5 carb this weekend.
Welcome to the group!
I think Vinyl Top 2 is a black vinyl top - my '66 has the same thing on the buck tag.
Call Hurst - they still service and repair all their products.
I think it has been posted here that they will refurbish old shifters for a fee.
NICE JOB! Finish looks awesome - looks like you lightly blasted or tumbled it after plating. Considering it is next to impossible to do anything with lead these days - nice to see the effort to replicate the finish with todays technology.
My K had dealer installed air - can't prove it, but the way it was installed and the May '65 date stamp on the back of the under dash unit - car is an April Dearborn car - sold new in OKC in late July '65 - I am pretty sure it has been there since new. I've spoken to owners back to '73 and it was there then. Before that no calls have been returned from names on my title search and the FoMoCo dealer is long gone.
I still have all the pieces including the aftermarket MAPCO cast iron crank pulley that fits the HiPo damper. It will not however be going back in the car because I cannot prove when it was originally there and because in my opinion it hurts the value of the car - and the experience - it didn't work when I got the car and so I never enjoyed the cold air - it won't be any fun driving it again if I don't sweat a little.
PS - there are a LOT of details on this car that are WRONG for a '65.
Nice to see a clone of my car though - Raven black with red interior - this is the first 2+2 I've seen with this color combo besides mine.
White lettering.
It depends upon which bracket you have on the trunk floor - they are not interchangeable.
If you have the slotted plate you need the straight bolt. If you have the loop you need the J hook bolt.
I think it varies by owner and the extent of the rust. That is how I approached my K code repair - I only replaced what was bad and kept as much original as possible.
I only did the complete floor due to extensive rust and damage from racing (lost drive shaft due to u-joint failure) and previous owner damage in the shifter area. I did retain the origianl seat platforms with a minor lower edge repair. I am really happy with the results.
We also put full quarter panel skins on - my body guy doesn't like big patch areas because it is too much work to get the inside of the trunk looking OK. My rust just went too far up around the wheel opening for patches. Again I am really happy with the results.
Anybody up for a game of LAWN DARTS!!!Or how about Star Trek Phasers that shoot sharp flying discs across the room at warp speed?
It was so much fun growing up in the 60's and 70's - less "legalistic", less "PC", and way more fun.
Cool cars and cool toys!!!
Click on OR Cut and paste the link below to a new IE window - it will take you to a posting in the archive or search on "rebound" in the archive search box on the left. There are plenty of photos in this posting and plenty of info on the axle rebound plate.
If your car is rusted that bad yes this would be a good solution - HOWEVER the axle plate will not be correct for a K code - do a search on the archive and you'll see the difference.
I've seen this part in person - MU had one on the Georgia show room floor a month or so ago. Looked nice, but you will really need to brace up the remainder of the car to keep it true before cutting it this much. Too hard to explain here but really critical.
You should be able to swap out the axle plate from your car or get a repop - again search the archive for the repop source.
I hope this helps.
Iowa,
I wouldn't turn it over until the metal repair is done - most experts use a frame under the car to keep it true.
My Car need a full floor too - for rust and racing damage.
Go to http://www.mustangcentralga.com and look under new projects - you'll see his work on my '65 K 2+2.
I'm not sure there is a correct sequence, but most guys I talked to would start at the back and work forward. This is how they repaired my car - the floor was done last.
Good luck on your project!
Fan spacer does appear to be the longer '66 Factory AC car spacer - like the one I have in my spare parts bin.
Guys,
I'm upgrading my L7-L8? Hipo from the earlier thrust plate and funky counter sunk hour glass head screws to the later style thrust plate hex head bolts. You can do the same - just buy the later model cam gear and a new thurst plate from any small block Ford 289/302.
I purchased the full Cloyes gear/chain set at my local auto parts store - they did have to order it, but had it in 2-3 days. I purchased the later style top gear to work properly with my new thrust plate.
I have posted the Cloyes information here several times, but as of about 3 years ago Cloyes still made everything - could be obsolete now, but I'd bet you'll find inventory collecting dust on a shelf if you look. You can search the archive for info.
I think I still have the used early gear and cam spacer in a bag, but my early thrust plate is cracked.
I thnk Bob Mannel's book covers this difference too.
RP
I have a '66 Restomod coupe with Granada spindles and discs on front.
These work OK, but won't fit stock '65-66 styled steel wheels. I had steel rims from a '68 and they cleared fine - just had to get the rotor center hub turned down to fit the smaller hole in the wheel - Ford switched from 2.4" wheel hole to 2.7" hole in the early 70's - so the Granada rotors have a larger center hub diameter and won't fit earlier wheels without turning it down smaller. You should have no issues clearing aftermarket wheels or later model wheels.
Granada discs are probably not as good as the later model 'stang Cobra brakes you can retro fit. Go to http://www.mustangsteve.com for details on using Cobra 13" or 2005-up 12.5" front discs on your stock spindles - but you will need 17" wheels.
I have all the pieces to put rear discs on the '66 too - just haven't done the work yet. These will also clear the stock 14" rims with a small spacer - I've mocked them up using a 5/16" spacer and they clear the rims easily. You will need longer studs - I can give you the details and photos of what I'm using if you send me an email.
Basically you swap late model Town Car, Marquis, or Crown Vic rear discs on to the 8" or 9" rear housing with a slight trim of the axle housing mounting plate - in place of your original drum backing plates. You also need some large washer type spacers to keep the axle and rotor properly positioned. All total I have less than $400 in this swap - and the master cylinder, rotors, calipers, hoses, and pads are all brand new. I got all the used parts at Pull-a-Part for $75 including the parking brake cables.
Check out eBay item # 370329407117 for details on this swap. This guy is selling the spacer rings you need along with detailed instructions. He was really nice to work with and shipped my spacers really fast.
Never measured, but mine appear to be the same size.
April '65 Dearborn car.
