Posts by RalphJr

Call me crazy, but not knowing what my car had originally - and knowing how Ford probably worked - I paid a few large bills $$$ for a complete original "C" pulley, fan, and spacer a few years back. My car is a Dearborn mid-April '65 K code and like Bob says - we don't know exactly when things happened. I decided to err on the side of Ford using up the old stuff first and the April 1st date being a target rather than a firm cutoff.

It is important to get all 3 pieces, but any good alternator shop may be able to take care of you on a fan and spacer to make the repop pulley work. Might not look 100% original but they should be able to make it work.

Nice to see the repop, but the lack of fan and spacer is disappointing since they really do need to be a set. Maybe Scott Drake can comment on or fix this - they may have everything you need - just not all in one package.

1965 Daytona Coupe......Shelby in '66 couldn't give them away. They were just old race cars! I think they wanted like $5000 or $6000 for them! A lot of money in those days sure...but what a car!

I LOVE the one used in the James Caan 'flick "Red Line 7000" along with a '65 GT350 being dirt tracked!

2nd choice would be "1961 Ferrari 250 GT Califonia...less than 100 were made...It is his love, it is his passion...it is his fault he didn't lock the garage!"

Rocket,

I have a super nice original restored H64 fan.

A little too early for my April '65 car - but I'll use it if I have to.

If you can find a swap for your fan and get a A65, B65, or C65 fan in restorable condition I'll swap. Restoring another one is no big deal for me.

I bought the fan several years ago - but even then it was over $500 in unrestored condition. Haven't seen an original sell for quite some time, but have seen some sell for over $1000. They are getting harder to find.

Ralph

The VIN stamping was done by a machine, but it had to be loaded with the correct dies - this is where errors occured and the machine could be "hit" twice causing the double stamps we see.

Sounds suspeciously like the same issue I had with a later model 4 speed in my '82 GT - but mine was first gear.

Turned out to be wear on the syncro and a broken tooth on the 1st gear "mesh" side for the syncro - depending upon how you hit it it was either OK or NOT. Very similar to how you describe yours.

I hope this helps.

The Competiton Suspension option was very rare on K Codes - but if you buy Tony's book you'll see a nice color photo of one with the 15" wheels.

I agree with Caspian65 - options like this scream for hand labor - not pre-punched holes - the tooling to do the punch and tracking the parts would have driven people nuts. Drilling - while a hand labor process - would still have been the cheapest route - remember bean counters were involved!

Awesome photos - Thanks for sharing these!

Greg,

I have a restored original H64 dated HiPo fan that would be a good fit for your car if you are counting date codes.

I don't want to sell it however - only trade it for a later dated fan - A65, B65 or C65 date code fan.

If you come up with a good one let me know.

Ralph

I was hoping it wasn't too far off topic - but that is the only difference I've been able to find in 30+ years of looking at and working on 'stangs.

But re-reading your original post I want to adjust my response a little. Given that you have a mid April '65 car - it could be a GT.

IMHO

For a K code the only way to tell a factory GT would be the dash cutout - and then only if the car is not a pony interior car.

For an A code it will need all of the exhaust stuff - prior to the "GT" package only a K code Mustang could have dual exhaust from the factory. BUT keep in mind that Ford changed the exhaust several times and changed the mounting points and reinforcements as a result.

This has been discussed in detail here before - the "A" code factory GT cars appear to have used the same metal "buck build" as a K code - there is a great topic in the archive on this with a ton of pictures showing the K code axle plate on A code GT cars. If you think about this it makes sense - Ford wouldn't make multiple versions of the metal build if they had one that would work. They used what they had - this is plain common sense for factory efficiency and what the bean counters would have demanded.

SO.....you have to look at a number of things - build date, datecodes, and several metal features to pick out a factory GT - A code or K code - at least in '65. I'm not sure it is as easy in '66.

Based upon your comments it sounds like the car is a legit GT.

Plus it was built the day before mine! Cool!

Wow....no mention of the dash board "eye brow" cut out for the 5 dial dash? This was a GT or Pony interior only change in '65.

This is only valid for '65 BUT true GT and PONY cars had a unique dash from the regular '65s....you can cut a regular dash to fit the 5 dial gauge cluster, but the factory ones had a rolled lip.

As far as I can tell this and the fog light holes are the only unique differences between a regular K code metal build and the "GT" metal build.

I guess if you really wanted to "fake it" you could swap in a '66 dash......but why go to the trouble? I doubt most people would.

None of the exhaust stuff is unique just to the GT - only the dash was unique for a GT or PONY interior cars.

My 2 cents at least.

I've got one extra good RUG tranny for a small block 'stang that I don't need - not sure what the cost of shipping would be. I can get you details when I get home if you are interested. Last one I sold for $500 - no shifter.

With the 67-68 you won't need to plug anything - the side with 2 openings is for the rear - one from MC one to rear brakes - the side with 3 is for the front - one from the MC and one each for the front brakes.

Oh wait.....I see - you need the shaft in the carb right?

I had a brain f..t I thought you needed the shaft from the acc pedal assy to the carb.

I guess I AM getting old!

Looks like what you need.

The drum / drum cars used this block and the disc / drum cars used it with an external bias valve to balance the different front / rear braking.

Is this part different than the standard carb rod?

Just curious as my original has been gone for years and I was just planning to buy a re-pop.

That would be the correct original 65-66 block....here is another that is cheaper:

200466320826

Here are some 67 style - a better choice for a dual master cylinder - item #:

200466320878

230523456892 (this is the best choice of all)

I don't see any universal drum/drum replacement valves right now - lots of Disc/Drum and Disc/Disc - you could try calling SSBC or another brake vendor to see if they offer one.

There also is a NOS 67 Mustang drum/drum brake propotioning valve - a little more money than you might want to spend:

250694049136

You can pick up a "stock" disty block from any Mustang parts vendor.

On the Mustangs with drum brakes this is just a "T" block for the front brakes and the one line running to the rear - the rear line splits again at the rear brake hose. There is no fluid proportioning or bias I'm aware of - this only came into play when front Disc brakes were involved - AND before the Gov'ment required a bias shut off for safety reasons in case one wheel started leaking fluid - this is actually a really GOOD thing!

You can run the fronts with a T off one side and the rear off the other of a dual drum-drum MC - it is just cleaner to run the stock Mustang block - just plug the rear connection in the block, run the fronts thru the block from one side of the MC, and run the back line straight from the MC. That way you won't really need to do much line work - just adapters and short lines you can buy at any auto parts store.

HOWEVER Caspian65 is completely correct - for safety you really should pick up a new drum-drum proportioning valve on eBay - they run about $50 - in the long run this will be the best solution.

WOW - THANKS for sharing - this guy does amazing work!

Yes